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Old 01-23-2012, 11:15 AM   #1
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Cinder Block door opening


What is the best way to support the upper header portion of cinder block to demo and create a door opening below? I have a 20' tall wall and my new door opening will be 10' wide and 12' tall so I have 6' of cinder block above to support which is also carrying some roof load.

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Old 01-23-2012, 11:22 AM   #2
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Cinder Block door opening


May want to hire this one out, not a great first time DIY job.
Your not going to have the tools or the know how to do this one in most cases.
Any concrete cutting compamy could handle this with no trouble.

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Old 01-23-2012, 11:54 AM   #3
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Cinder Block door opening


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Originally Posted by joecaption View Post
May want to hire this one out, not a great first time DIY job.
Your not going to have the tools or the know how to do this one in most cases.
Any concrete cutting compamy could handle this with no trouble.
Good advice, but if you are determined to DIY there are a few methods of support.One knock a strongboy into the joint and support with a prop.
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Another is to put needles through the wall and support them with props.
Usually about every 3 ft.
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Old 01-23-2012, 12:22 PM   #4
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Cinder Block door opening


My advice.... Don't touch it without engineering and Building Dept approval. This is not DIY with no experience.
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Old 01-23-2012, 01:09 PM   #5
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Cinder Block door opening


Just increases the size of an opening in my block house (from 26 to 30 inches). We used a steel lintel to reinforce the top of the opening and carry the overhead load.

Search around for a span chart for steel lintels. You are absolutely going to have to get an engineer to design/check everything, and with an opening that big, I can't see a DIY guy getting this done (correctly and safely) himself. With the size of the opening you describe, I wouldn't be surprised if they have to remove all the block above where the opening will be, bolt the lintel into place and lay fresh block over that.
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Old 01-23-2012, 07:14 PM   #6
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Cinder Block door opening


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Originally Posted by stuart45 View Post
Good advice, but if you are determined to DIY there are a few methods of support.One knock a strongboy into the joint and support with a prop.
Attachment 44523

Attachment 44524
Another is to put needles through the wall and support them with props.
Usually about every 3 ft.
I am not a rookie and have done residential Construction for over 20 yrs so I am confident I can do the job with the right approach. I was thinking of sandwiching the blocks with 1/2" steel plates through bolted at the correct header height and then removing the blocks below. Do you think this would be a safe approach?
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Old 01-23-2012, 10:20 PM   #7
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Cinder Block door opening


I would find out what is needed to carry the load.

I would see what size of angle iron is necessary to carry it, based on two pieces of this angle iron being used. The small dimension of the angle would be 3 1/2" or 3 3/4" and the longer dimension is to be determined. Obviously, the longer dimension is going to be providing the strength. The stock should be 3/16 or 1/4, assuming you have 3/8 joints.

I'm assuming you won't mind looking at some steel on the interior and exterior of this opening.

So, get your metal on the jobsite and remove the joint at the top of the opening on one side, in 3 1/2 or 3 3/4 into the blockwork. Also come out into the wall you will leave intact as far as necessary for bearing (as determined to bear the load). Slip your iron in, and secure with a few screws into the block or joints. Have the block bearing directly on the iron, as if they had been laid on the iron.

Now repeat on the other side of the wall.

Now cut out the jambs and demolish the opening.
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Old 01-24-2012, 08:24 AM   #8
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Cinder Block door opening


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I am not a rookie and have done residential Construction for over 20 yrs so I am confident I can do the job with the right approach. I was thinking of sandwiching the blocks with 1/2" steel plates through bolted at the correct header height and then removing the blocks below. Do you think this would be a safe approach?
I've never used that method, or seen it done over here so I don't know much about it. However I have heard masons on this forum talk about similar methods so I guess it must work OK.
As you are taking out a fair amount of masonry it's always best to take your time and make sure it propped well enough. Usually block and brickwork are much easier to prop than thick solid stone walls, especially when built in random rubble.

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