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Old 02-28-2013, 09:51 PM   #16
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Choosing the right Nail Gun


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Originally Posted by Mijotter View Post
Awesome info guys. Thanks for the link to that nail gun as well. So i'm looking for 16d framing nails since I won't be doing much if any toe nailing. Are 10 gauge nails strong enough for framing? Should nail 2 or 3 in per stud?(building the walls laying down then raising up)
10d's are fine.

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Old 02-28-2013, 09:54 PM   #17
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Choosing the right Nail Gun


Thanks Just want to be sure so I don't do a hack job.
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Old 02-28-2013, 09:56 PM   #18
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Choosing the right Nail Gun


^ exactly, 10 d ( 3" nail) for wall framing and they will work for toe nails also if you only have the 10 d nails and no 8d for the gun.
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Old 02-28-2013, 09:56 PM   #19
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Choosing the right Nail Gun


http://www.harborfreight.com/air-too...html?hftref=cj

Will this Nail gun take 16d? It says nails up to 3 1/4" and 16d is 3.5"
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Old 02-28-2013, 09:59 PM   #20
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Choosing the right Nail Gun


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10d's are fine.
Oh wait I thought I needed 16d for code? I was asking if 10 gauge nails will be strong enough for framing.
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Old 02-28-2013, 10:06 PM   #21
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Choosing the right Nail Gun


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Oh wait I thought I needed 16d for code? I was asking if 10 gauge nails will be strong enough for framing.
Your fine with 10d there.
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Old 02-28-2013, 10:10 PM   #22
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oh ok lol. so would 10 gauge 10d's make a strong solid enough framed wall?
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Old 02-28-2013, 10:20 PM   #23
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Choosing the right Nail Gun


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Originally Posted by Mijotter View Post
Oh wait I thought I needed 16d for code? I was asking if 10 gauge nails will be strong enough for framing.

its kind of strange, we've always thought of 3" gun nails as the 16d of hammer and nail. you can get a larger diameter 3" nail for a stronger overall nail. most framers will shoot up to 3 1/2" nails, you will probably need full 120 psi to shoot a 3 1/2" nails -3 1/2" nails are what we use to put together engineered structural lumber and having the nail not set fully happens a lot. I always bang on the nails anyway with the 22oz hammer after shooting with the gun to draw tight the members
framing guns do not always fully draw tight two different pieces of framing lumber when you nail them together so it is best to finish the job with a hammer or try and hold tight the two pieces before you nail them together at the exact same time, apply pressure and shoot at the moment pressure is applied.
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Old 02-28-2013, 10:33 PM   #24
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Choosing the right Nail Gun


awesome to know that the 10g will be strong enough... *writes down in notebook*. The reason I ask is because the nail gun i'm looking at only shoots 10 gauge nails. What is the diameter of a 10 gauge, 10d nail .131?

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Old 02-28-2013, 11:15 PM   #25
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Choosing the right Nail Gun


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Originally Posted by Mijotter View Post
awesome to know that the 10g will be strong enough... *writes down in notebook*. The reason I ask is because the nail gun i'm looking at only shoots 10 gauge nails. What is the diameter of a 10 gauge, 10d nail .131?
You are a little mixed up.

10d is 10 penny nails, not 10 guage. 10 penny is 3"s in length.

As far as I know, they come in one thickness. At least in 25 years of framing that is what I have seen.

By the way, my home projects are all nailed with the harbor freight gun. I bought it when a gun I was using on a job broke and they were close by. it was supposed to be a temp fix. So far, I can't break it. I use 3 1/4" nails in it.

hope this helps.
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Old 02-28-2013, 11:16 PM   #26
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Choosing the right Nail Gun


average size is .131.
For no pull out holding power- ring shank nails work the best. I do not use smooth gun nails much at all. After years of building and seeing( pulled loose from smooth shank nails ) panels of sheathing on the wall I've found that when aimed to hit center of the target (stud,joist,rafter) ring shank nails hold best no doubt... you will be saying very blue words if you ever have to go back and re-do (take apart) anything you put together
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Old 02-28-2013, 11:26 PM   #27
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average size is .131.
For no pull out holding power- ring shank nails work the best. I do not use smooth gun nails much at all. After years of building and seeing( pulled loose from smooth shank nails ) panels of sheathing on the wall I've found that when aimed to hit center of the target (stud,joist,rafter) ring shank nails hold best no doubt... you will be saying very blue words if you ever have to go back and re-do (take apart) anything you put together
and they are totally unnecessary for framing wall studs.
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Old 02-28-2013, 11:27 PM   #28
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I'm having a very hard time trying to find 3" 10 gauge rim shank nails. Are you sure smooth won't work;-D
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Old 02-28-2013, 11:30 PM   #29
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I'm having a very hard time trying to find 3" 10 gauge rim shank nails. Are you sure smooth won't work;-D

like I said hey are unnecessary and I can't remember seeing them either.
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Old 02-28-2013, 11:33 PM   #30
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ok whew. Ok so from all of this; 10d(3"), 10 gauge(.131) Smooth framing nails. Got it!

Same size but galvanized for treated lumber right?

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