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Old 08-07-2009, 09:14 PM   #1
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Changing Garage Door to 2FT less, footing question


My damaged existing garage door is 18ft wide and I want to replace it with a 16ft wide door. I will continue to support the header where the footings exist at the 18ft spot. I figure I will just add 2ft of wall to one side of the opening, but I'm concerned about how this two foot wall will be sitting on top of the driveway slab - not the footing. I suppose a couple of good lag screws into the concrete slab will do it, but I'm not sure the best tool to drill that concrete. Would just one of those .22 cement nail guns do the job ? I hope my assumption that the slab is not going to have any movement - it hasn't since the house was built in 1994. I'm in Michigan and I know footings are necessary because of moisture and freezing.

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Old 08-08-2009, 05:14 AM   #2
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Changing Garage Door to 2FT less, footing question


you could shoot pins, drill for lead drop-ins & lags, or use conc screws - i'd pick whatever i had lying about to negate the special trip to the apron store you're fine !

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Old 08-08-2009, 06:11 AM   #3
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Changing Garage Door to 2FT less, footing question


I doubt your assumption is correct, the slab moves, especially in your climate, and the walls on the foundation don't. Anchoring the new wall to both will not work, it has to have a solid foundation. And the new wall has to support the new garage door, so it must be solid.
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Old 08-08-2009, 08:04 AM   #4
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Changing Garage Door to 2FT less, footing question


bill & i disagree on this thread, too,,, dad mention'd the header'll still be supported as before so this 'fill-in ' wall's not structural,,, any track weight'll be supported from below - minimal imo,,, bill might not but i'd do it that way, dad...................
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Old 08-08-2009, 12:25 PM   #5
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Changing Garage Door to 2FT less, footing question


Wow, what DIY support. I 've been stuck on this project for weeks. Thanks IRC, Supporting the track weight only is right. I only have to worry if the slab has some movement that My track will misalign and door might not roll precisely. I'm still not too sure the easiest way to tie that wall down, maybe I'll just start with the nails ansd see how it goes.
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Old 08-08-2009, 06:44 PM   #6
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Changing Garage Door to 2FT less, footing question


http://www.lowes.com/lowes/lkn?actio...098&lpage=none

http://www.lowes.com/lowes/lkn?actio...VSR&lpage=none

http://www.lowes.com/lowes/lkn?actio...084&lpage=none
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Old 08-08-2009, 07:36 PM   #7
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Changing Garage Door to 2FT less, footing question


Pictures are worth a thousand words - add in a URL and it's good for another couple thousand.

Rent the rotary hammer drill from Home Depot rental or other rental if you don't have one - with the right tool the concrete will drill easily.
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Old 08-17-2009, 07:55 PM   #8
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Changing Garage Door to 2FT less, footing question


Ok, Making Garage Door smaller so I can put in a 24" exterior door.
Drilling concrete to lag wood wall was so easy I decided to put rebar into slab and ppour a little concrete 2 ft wall so it matches up with existing footing. See pictures.

Next step build a little form.
Pour in Redimix.
Add some straps for bottom board.
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Old 08-17-2009, 10:17 PM   #9
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Changing Garage Door to 2FT less, footing question


tracks're only there only to guide the door's rollers, not to support weight,,, the conc floor holds the weight when its closed & ceiling hangers take over when its open so easy does it - just use your head & think logically,,, don't imagine problems that won't be there but DO think thru what you do

good luck !
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Old 08-19-2009, 08:08 PM   #10
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Changing Garage Door to 2FT less, footing question


Opps, didn't get that RediMix packed in close to the bottom of the form - so it's looking a little porous. It will be OK structurally, but do you know of (recommend) any concrete patch to smooth that out for cosmetic reasons ? Interesting luck, one bag of RediMix was just about perfect amount needed.
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Old 08-19-2009, 09:58 PM   #11
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Changing Garage Door to 2FT less, footing question


that's HORRIBLE work then again, just as good as many pro's so don't worry,,, grab up some mortar mix, wet the conc, & parge it,,, you can wipe w/wet sponge as it dries,,, btw, nice job
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Old 08-20-2009, 12:33 AM   #12
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Changing Garage Door to 2FT less, footing question


The way you avoid the cement not filling all the voids at the bottom is: 1) you push something into the mix all the way to the bottom, lift it out, move it an inch or two and do it again (a piece of rebar will sort of work but an old shovel handle or just a 1x1 piece of wood will work better), 2) go all the way around the forms hitting them with a framing hammer (that makes sure the fines fill in next to the form boards). For this project I suspect what you've got will work fine, at least as long as the slab doesn't move. For larger projects the "stirring" and hammering (vibrating) are essential. But it's very easy to over-do this and get too much water and fines at the top. Concrete work is a bit of an art, though I think a lot of fun. Incidentally if you have holes to patch in something structurally critical, hydraulic cement is the ticket.
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Old 08-20-2009, 02:10 PM   #13
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Changing Garage Door to 2FT less, footing question


Or place a running palm sander against the forms right after the pour. Be safe, G
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Old 08-24-2009, 07:34 PM   #14
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Changing Garage Door to 2FT less, footing question


OK - used 4x4 and wedged it up under the garage header for a temporary support, then easily pounded the original 2x4s back over to their original footing position. There were 2-2x4s under the header and 2-more (longer) right beside the header. I didn't realize it originally but I think I should replace all these 2x4 s as they are split up pretty bad - from the original truck impact dislodging them and then from me pounding them back into position. Is putting a 4x4 under that header stronger than 2-2x4s ?
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Old 08-25-2009, 05:59 AM   #15
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Changing Garage Door to 2FT less, footing question


phil meant to say ' rodding ' looks like its coming along fine.

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