ceiling furring question

BlueBSH

I am in the process of leveing and furring the basement ceiling to be drywalled. However was not sure what to do about the ends of the furring strips.

I am using 2x material for this, mainly because it gave me the depth that I needed to keep screws at least 1 1/2" away from anything you could accidently screw into.

My main issue right now is at the ends there is no joist to screw into vertically. Right now it is butting up against the top plate on the end wall of the room. This is because the room divider walls where placed directly below the joists so you get a complete vertical wall from floor to the 1st floor's decking (apparently for fire stopping going by the house plans) so no ridge to screw into vertically

Does this need to be somehow attached at the end? everything I've seen online just leaves it hanging, even with Hat channels and stuch the ends just hang there.

The joists are 16" O.C. right now and I am screwing the furring strips up with 3" screws

This probably will support 5/8" drywall for the ceiling.

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House Information: Build 1996, 1500 sq ft basement, 1500 sq ft 1st floor, 800 sq ft 2nd floor, 560 sq ft unfinished attic space on 2nd floor. Insulation: Attic blown fiberglass, walls R-19, Basement R-19. HVAC: Trane xc95m fully modulating furnace, single zone, Trane XL20i commiunicating AC unit, TCONT900 Communicating thermostat.

brockmiera

A picture or two would really help. I think your problem has a simple solution but without seeing it its hard to know for sure.

BlueBSH

can't get any photos right now, so I drew up a quick layout of the walls / ceiling

the wall with the double top plate is 97.5" to 98" high (depending on where the in the room, the concrete isn't 100% level) so the furring brings the room to exactly 8' but as you can see in the picture the last joist is right above the wall, so the 2x furring butts against the top plate with no joist vertically above it to screw into

Attached Thumbnails

 

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House Information: Build 1996, 1500 sq ft basement, 1500 sq ft 1st floor, 800 sq ft 2nd floor, 560 sq ft unfinished attic space on 2nd floor. Insulation: Attic blown fiberglass, walls R-19, Basement R-19. HVAC: Trane xc95m fully modulating furnace, single zone, Trane XL20i commiunicating AC unit, TCONT900 Communicating thermostat.

brockmiera

Im no professional framer by any means but I think Id just sister a 2x4 the length of that last ceiling joist and call it a day.

BlueBSH

I was thinking that too, but like everything now days, safer to ask

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House Information: Build 1996, 1500 sq ft basement, 1500 sq ft 1st floor, 800 sq ft 2nd floor, 560 sq ft unfinished attic space on 2nd floor. Insulation: Attic blown fiberglass, walls R-19, Basement R-19. HVAC: Trane xc95m fully modulating furnace, single zone, Trane XL20i commiunicating AC unit, TCONT900 Communicating thermostat.

woodworkbykirk

you need to fit a 2x6 up on the mud sil that the joists are sitting on and try to fasten it down.. in new construction we put it in place before the sheathing goes on so it gets securely anchored

brockmiera

By his representation, that joist isn't at an exterior wall. I'll rethink my approach if that is the case.

BlueBSH

yes, this is interior, a basement room that is going to be drywalled

and I definitly can not sister the 2x10 with anything to big as there are already wires running down it about mid point

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House Information: Build 1996, 1500 sq ft basement, 1500 sq ft 1st floor, 800 sq ft 2nd floor, 560 sq ft unfinished attic space on 2nd floor. Insulation: Attic blown fiberglass, walls R-19, Basement R-19. HVAC: Trane xc95m fully modulating furnace, single zone, Trane XL20i commiunicating AC unit, TCONT900 Communicating thermostat.

Bruntson

You should be able to toe nail a 16d CC or box nail through each side of your furring strip and into the homes's plate to ensure a solid attachment. Box or CC (cement Coated) nails are thinner that Common nails and resist splitting the wood.

jklingel

if splitting might be a problem, i drill holes, then run the nails through. 2x10 blocking would give you SOMETHING to screw to, at least every 16" or so. i would not hammer into them, but you could screw them; better than stink.