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Old 04-03-2011, 06:18 PM   #1
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Cedar channel siding


I have removed an exterior door, the interior is all finished and looks great, now I am working on the exterior. I need to fill in the space left by the door. I am currently trying to pry the upper portion of the siding so I can slip flashing up under it. What I need to know is do I need to put flashing on the bottom as well and what is the best way to seal the edges where they butt together?

Any suggestions would be great!

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Old 04-03-2011, 06:22 PM   #2
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flashing should start at the bottom and work up,shingling the top piece over the bottom until you reach the top,your last peice of flashing should go under the existing paper not just the siding


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Old 04-03-2011, 06:39 PM   #3
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Welcome to the forum.

A picture or two would be nice. If your interior looks great, I’d like to make sure your Cedar looks great too.
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Old 04-03-2011, 06:50 PM   #4
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Sounds like you've already made more work for yourself than necessary by trying to install flashing 'after the fact'.

Pros, like Mr Struble, start from the bottom and work up..
They start by pan flashing the door bottom and creating a positive water shed to all areas of water concern.
This comes from years of experience, failure and success.

No offense, but 1st timers are often too anxious to just get the new door stuck into the opening and worry about the flashings and watersheds afterwards.
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Old 04-03-2011, 09:32 PM   #5
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I am talking about Vertical channel siding, need the flashing at the top and bottom where the old meets the new. I have now removed the two existing side pieces to they lap together nicely from side to side now, instead of butting up. There are some areas that are of concern and want to know the best way to seal those so water can't get in.
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Old 04-03-2011, 10:30 PM   #6
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can you remove the existing pieces and install new full length pieces?
if not then yes a metal drip cap needs to be installed at both locations,do not seal the wood to the upper portion of the drip caps

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Old 04-03-2011, 10:39 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tcleve4911 View Post
Sounds like you've already made more work for yourself than necessary by trying to install flashing 'after the fact'.

Pros, like Mr Struble, start from the bottom and work up..
They start by pan flashing the door bottom and creating a positive water shed to all areas of water concern.
This comes from years of experience, failure and success.

No offense, but 1st timers are often too anxious to just get the new door stuck into the opening and worry about the flashings and watersheds afterwards.

you ain't so bad yourself big boy
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Old 04-04-2011, 08:54 AM   #8
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I wouldn't be using a drip cap... drip cap is going to stick out to much,
Just use a Z-BAR ...see attached picture.
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Old 04-04-2011, 11:11 AM   #9
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I did use a z-bar. And it is working out well, now I am just trying to find out what is the best way to seal the areas that look like they could get water in them, should I use silicon caulk? Is there a better product?

I did remove the side pieces but could not take off the top and bottom pieces to make it a full run because my replacement sticks of channel were not long enough to go the whole length.

Thank you all for your help. I have been figuring it out as I go along but it is good to know there are experienced people I can go to when I run into a snag. I will be coming back again for future challenges.
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Old 04-04-2011, 11:20 AM   #10
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I prefer OSI and Sika sealants some of their products are formulated little bit diferently than standard caulkings.
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Old 04-04-2011, 11:24 AM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Brookie View Post
I did use a z-bar. And it is working out well, now I am just trying to find out what is the best way to seal the areas that look like they could get water in them, should I use silicon caulk? Is there a better product?

I did remove the side pieces but could not take off the top and bottom pieces to make it a full run because my replacement sticks of channel were not long enough to go the whole length.

Thank you all for your help. I have been figuring it out as I go along but it is good to know there are experienced people I can go to when I run into a snag. I will be coming back again for future challenges.
What side pieces are you talking about, the vertical channel siding?

Does the door have brick mold?

The answer to your questions should be pretty straight forward, Iím just not visualizing the question.

Picture???
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Old 04-04-2011, 03:05 PM   #12
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if it was a question of length what could have been done instead of a drip would have been to make a ''weather cut''which is a 45 degree angle on both pieces with the joint configured to shed water,offsetting the seams on each succeeding course
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Old 04-04-2011, 10:37 PM   #13
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"I need to fill in the space left by the door. I am currently trying to pry the upper portion of the siding so I can slip flashing up under it. What I need to know is do I need to put flashing on the bottom as well and what is the best way to seal the edges where they butt together?" ----- The door is no more, you framed and sheathed, papered the hole. I wouldn't use any metal flashing. As Tom said, undercut the bottom pieces at different elevations or use full-length ones. This would be less noticeable for sure.

Gary

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