Caulk Sheathing?? - Building & Construction - Page 3 - DIY Chatroom Home Improvement Forum


Go Back   DIY Chatroom Home Improvement Forum > Home Improvement > Building & Construction

CLICK HERE AND JOIN OUR COMMUNITY TODAY...IT'S FREE!

Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
Old 04-24-2012, 03:24 PM   #31
journeyman carpenter
 
woodworkbykirk's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: nova scotia canada
Posts: 2,767
Rewards Points: 150
Default

caulk sheathing??


regarding blocking the edges of sheathing. the only time we have to install blocking is for a shear wall, that means a wall that is over 12' high and has to be sheathed to gain optimal strength

regarding drywall.. if your going to be framing walls 24" on center i hope to god your going to be using 5/8 board.. 1/2" isnt strong enough for that kind of layout, going over steel stud especially.. the only builders i know that are spec'ing 24" o.c locally are the cheap ass builders who have all kinds of issues with their houses and buildings a year after completion.

Advertisement

woodworkbykirk is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-24-2012, 04:20 PM   #32
Member
 
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: Fairbanks, AK
Posts: 1,847
Rewards Points: 1,000
Default

caulk sheathing??


Gary: Doesn't the gaps/no gaps dilemma apply only to OSB, and not to plywood? I read the link and it clearly included plywood, but do people actually worry about gaps w/ plywood in the real world? This is another reason to avoid OSB, I think.
jklingel is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-24-2012, 06:47 PM   #33
Member
 
Join Date: Apr 2012
Posts: 42
Rewards Points: 25
Default

caulk sheathing??


Quote:
Originally Posted by cortell View Post
The advantage of installing OSB vertically is that every edge has a nailing surface. That significantly adds to the shear strength of the wall. Installing it horizontally requires installing solid blocking if you are to achieve the same shear strength (6" nail spacing on the edges). All that blocking bumps up material and labor costs. I don't think orientation alone affects the design strength of the wall. Now, roofs are a different matter...

That said...what works for one local building jurisdiction may not work for another.
The blocking and the gap are the reasons I stand it up but my understanding is that it is stronger ran horizontally. This is why I like to hang my drywall vertically. It is easier to tape it horizontally with no but joins but the walls benefit from the horizontal application.
HartKyle83 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-24-2012, 06:58 PM   #34
Member
 
Join Date: Apr 2012
Posts: 42
Rewards Points: 25
Default

caulk sheathing??


Quote:
Originally Posted by woodworkbykirk View Post
standing up osb when sheathing walls will fail inspection here anyway.. every sheet is clearly stamped with which way it should be installed.being horizontally.. every inspector knows to look for the arrows running perpindicular to the framing.

standing up drywall is a commercial method, in residential is run horizontally.. so to reduce the number of joints and it makes for one joint at waist level for the taper to mud.. not 1000 vertical joints every 4'

as for adjusting the framing for the gap ??????????? every house ive ever framed we snap a chalkline 48 1/4" up from the bottom plate and install the sheathing to that.. the next row gets spaced by the thickness of a hand spike.. and so on.. when sheathing a roof both h clips and tongue and groove are made so to create the gap between the sheets

i seriously believe your overthinking this

That gaps the plywood on two sides. What do you do about the other two sides? That is when I brought up layout. 1/8 at a time will add up to a lot in the course of a long wall. But then I see all this talk about sized for spacing so I am going to go check out a piece of osb and see whats up.
HartKyle83 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-24-2012, 06:59 PM   #35
Member
 
Join Date: Apr 2012
Posts: 42
Rewards Points: 25
Default

caulk sheathing??


GBR, I was hoping you would comment on hot you are talking about conditioned and unconditioned space.
HartKyle83 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-24-2012, 09:55 PM   #36
In a little over my head
 
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Atlanta, GA
Posts: 743
Rewards Points: 516
Default

caulk sheathing??


Wow! This thread is a year old. And I started it!
ratherbefishing is offline   Reply With Quote
The Following User Says Thank You to ratherbefishing For This Useful Post:
Tom Struble (04-24-2012)
Old 04-24-2012, 10:28 PM   #37
Member
 
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: Fairbanks, AK
Posts: 1,847
Rewards Points: 1,000
Default

caulk sheathing??


Rather: Well, is the job done yet?
Kirk: Plenty of good builders have walls 24" OC because of the better thermal performance and aligning studs right under trusses, eliminating the need for a double top plate. At least one I know who uses 24" OC puts his plywood on the exterior of the inner 2x4 (double stud wall), which is his air barrier. I suspect that helps stabilize the studs, but I think he still uses 5/8" drywall. Yes, 5/8" drywall is certainly best w/ 24" OC, though I know one who uses 1/2" w/ no issues in 20 some years. One thing I thought of whilst out at the range: if you install drywall horizontally, that kills the option of using the airtight drywall approach, unless you block at the edges.
jklingel is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-24-2012, 10:38 PM   #38
Member
 
Tom Struble's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: west milford n.j.
Posts: 2,785
Rewards Points: 2,000
Default

caulk sheathing??


Quote:
Originally Posted by ratherbefishing View Post
Wow! This thread is a year old. And I started it!
Tom Struble is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-24-2012, 11:26 PM   #39
In a little over my head
 
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Atlanta, GA
Posts: 743
Rewards Points: 516
Default

caulk sheathing??


JK,
I hate to admit, it's going slow. Outside's done, roofed, painted. Electical and plumbing inspections are done. Kerdi's done, shower's tiled, not grouted. No time for the next few weeks. Lucky it's a second bath!
ratherbefishing is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-25-2012, 12:03 AM   #40
Member
 
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: Fairbanks, AK
Posts: 1,847
Rewards Points: 1,000
Default

caulk sheathing??


Quote:
Originally Posted by ratherbefishing View Post
Lucky it's a second bath!
At least lucky for co-workers.
jklingel is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-25-2012, 06:22 PM   #41
Member
 
Join Date: Apr 2012
Posts: 42
Rewards Points: 25
Default

caulk sheathing??


Quote:
Originally Posted by jklingel View Post
Rather: Well, is the job done yet?
Kirk: Plenty of good builders have walls 24" OC because of the better thermal performance and aligning studs right under trusses, eliminating the need for a double top plate. At least one I know who uses 24" OC puts his plywood on the exterior of the inner 2x4 (double stud wall), which is his air barrier. I suspect that helps stabilize the studs, but I think he still uses 5/8" drywall. Yes, 5/8" drywall is certainly best w/ 24" OC, though I know one who uses 1/2" w/ no issues in 20 some years. One thing I thought of whilst out at the range: if you install drywall horizontally, that kills the option of using the airtight drywall approach, unless you block at the edges.
once you tape it the many pieces of a wall become one making the air tight approach attainable with no extra blocking
HartKyle83 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-25-2012, 06:41 PM   #42
Member
 
cortell's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: Austin, TX
Posts: 708
Rewards Points: 500
Default

caulk sheathing??


Quote:
Originally Posted by jklingel View Post
One thing I thought of whilst out at the range: if you install drywall horizontally, that kills the option of using the airtight drywall approach, unless you block at the edges.
Similarly, the claim that drywall installed horizontally improves the shear strength of the wall seems dubious to me. Fastener spacing is a significant factor. Doesn't reducing the spacing from 6"OC to 16"OC (if not 24"OC!) along the horizontal middle seam sound like a win-lose situation? Sure, the drywall spans more joists, and the end joints are staggered, and the strength axis is supposedly along long the length of the panel...but has anyone figured out what the net gain in shear strength is after taking into account the loss caused by a reduced nailing schedule?

I know there are other benefits to horizontal drywall, and I'm not trying to stir up that bees nest. Just curious about this shear strength claim.
cortell is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-25-2012, 08:13 PM   #43
journeyman carpenter
 
woodworkbykirk's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: nova scotia canada
Posts: 2,767
Rewards Points: 150
Default

caulk sheathing??


klingle, im very aware of the method. ive built several of them and their horrible for high wind zones.. not to mention getting up on the roof, you can feel the place swaying. i built one 5 years ago, during construction a hurrican hit.. one wall racked out of plumb by 3/4". another local builder had one in construction that was to be their showcase home for the year, during framing a hurricane hit and it racked by 2 1/2" they tried to push it back into alignment with a machine but didnt work.. had to be torn down and start new

when it comes to finishing these places. their even worse.. blocking is always missed, your relying on glue to hold trim in place and even custom built closets are held on with glue
woodworkbykirk is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-25-2012, 11:23 PM   #44
Member
 
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: Fairbanks, AK
Posts: 1,847
Rewards Points: 1,000
Default

caulk sheathing??


kirk; got it. i am debating the OC for my new house. one option i dreamed up (and i am sure 1,000 other people have already done, and maybe abandoned) is using double 2x4's, 24" OC. that gives me a 1.5" nailing surface for the plywood and drywall. for loads, i can not use a single 2x4, 24" OC, so I'll either have to go 16" or 12" OC with singles. another option is to fabricate T's out of 2x4's. i think they will carry the load adequately if 24" OC, but obviously will require a lot of extra (non-paid; my wife refuses to pay me) work. dunno yet. just tinkering w/ ideas. on the airtight drywall approach w/ horizontal drywall (whoever mentioned that), i don't think the spans would be as tight as if the edges were on studs and gooed, as you'd do if vertically installed. dunno; will have to look into that more.
jklingel is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-25-2012, 11:56 PM   #45
Registered User
 
Join Date: Mar 2009
Posts: 9,983
Rewards Points: 2,032
Default

caulk sheathing??


Loose ends; I would tape the OSB/ply rather than foam/caulk when un-backed for an air barrier. I would use the drywall for the air barrier, caulking at the stud/sheathing/plates to minimize air movement. I would use cellulose to help stop convective loops/airflow. I would never caulk/glue the expansion gap suggested left open by all manufacturers between OSB, all sides. I would use a "stucco" housewrap against OSB because it dries so slowly. Especially between OSB/foam board.

Drywall is about 3X stronger going with the grain (long way) than across, both in "flex. strength" and "MOR"; https://docs.google.com/viewer?a=v&q...U1o3kfoOlKl-7Q

Gary

Advertisement

__________________
If any ads are present in my answer above, I do not condone/support/use the product or services listed, they are there against my permission.
Gary in WA is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply


Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Recaulking at previously silicone-caulked shower door frame hffeagan Kitchen & Bath Remodeling 35 02-09-2014 02:20 PM
How to Clean Up Caulk Mess on Driveway Left By Construction Crew ToolbeltGal Building & Construction 6 09-25-2010 05:36 PM
Best Bathroom Caulk for 2010? SimpleJack Plumbing 9 04-01-2010 05:12 PM
Caulk Frustration j4ino Building & Construction 5 09-29-2008 08:03 AM
recaulking: cleaning out old caulk questions adamc Painting 6 09-19-2008 06:30 PM




Top of Page | View New Posts