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Old 04-23-2012, 05:25 PM   #16
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caulk sheathing??


I just wen back and looked at my links. I think you need to rethink what you said about the situation we are looking at being unconditioned to unconditioned. That would be an attic or an unheated garage. The inside of the wall does not count as an unconditioned space. It is the barrier between the conditioned and unconditioned space and the link I posted is calling for the gap to be caulked or foamed.

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Old 04-23-2012, 09:48 PM   #17
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any building inspector ive ever had alwaysa looks for the 1/8" gap in the plywood or osb. its expected here as per building code and per the manufacturers specs. the do not want hte gap caulked its supposed to be open.. the installation of a air barrier is what stops air movement. the air barrier can be either type 2 foam or house wrap (tyvek, typar). i know carpenters that have installed sheathing tight toghether only to be made by the inspector to either remove and reinstall it or cut a gap in it. when it does get wet it swells and buckles. in a perfect world situation the framing will never get wet but unfortunately that sorta thing doesnt happern.. new homes get rained and snowed on during the courese of construction

gbr's link is directly from a national site which states building codes.. yours im not so sure of.. regional codes do change though.. regarding habitat for humanitys practices they try to do things to the best of their ability however they are limited by the skill of the volunteers plus the more often than not the local building authorities are very very easy on them when it comes to inspection time do to the nature of the organization, i am very well aware of them as i am a build leader for the local h4h, ive come on site after being away for a few days to see things done which passed inspection which never would in a real inspection
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Old 04-23-2012, 09:57 PM   #18
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I cant imagine any inspector requiring an 1/8 gap all the way around. You would have to adjust your layout quite a lot to make this work as well as transfer the 1/8 gap to the drywall installation. You would have to run your drywall the same direction as the plywood. There are benefits standing the osb up but that is not how you want to install the drywall.
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Old 04-23-2012, 11:57 PM   #19
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Quote:
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There are benefits standing the osb up but that is not how you want to install the drywall.
Hart: I have heard this: Residential, stand drywall up. Commercial, lay it horizontally. What is there to gain by having it horizontal? To me, that just ensures that you will have an unsupported joint to deal w/. (or do you automatically put blocking there anyway?) Then, too, what do you do w/ 9.5' high walls if you lay the drywall horizontally? Thanks.
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Old 04-24-2012, 12:07 AM   #20
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I too, have seen framers have to cut gaps in roof sheathing after inspections. That link was from OSB of Canada.
OSB is sized with a gap, no need to allow for it when laying-out framing. http://www.apawood.org/pablog/index....panel-buckling

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Old 04-24-2012, 12:30 AM   #21
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Go here: http://www.gp.com/build/product.aspx?pid=5849

Scroll to the bottom of page, click on "Installation"

Choose to download; "APA guide- WALLS" (the first one)

Fig. #13- sheathing 1/8" gaps all around.

Next to fig. 20 (last one)- The ink stamps for "sheathing" all say "sized for spacing" on them.

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Old 04-24-2012, 08:05 AM   #22
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ive also seen inspectors make guys go around each piece of sheathing with a saw

but i don't think the caulk negates or affects the purpose of the gap in any way

but a carefully done wrb can be as effective regarding the 1/8'' gap imo
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Old 04-24-2012, 10:43 AM   #23
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standing up osb when sheathing walls will fail inspection here anyway.. every sheet is clearly stamped with which way it should be installed.being horizontally.. every inspector knows to look for the arrows running perpindicular to the framing.

standing up drywall is a commercial method, in residential is run horizontally.. so to reduce the number of joints and it makes for one joint at waist level for the taper to mud.. not 1000 vertical joints every 4'

as for adjusting the framing for the gap ??????????? every house ive ever framed we snap a chalkline 48 1/4" up from the bottom plate and install the sheathing to that.. the next row gets spaced by the thickness of a hand spike.. and so on.. when sheathing a roof both h clips and tongue and groove are made so to create the gap between the sheets

i seriously believe your overthinking this
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Old 04-24-2012, 11:10 AM   #24
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Kirk: ah so. a 4' high seam is much easier to tape. i assume that requires blocking under it so you don't have a joint floating across 22.5"??? and what about a 9.5' ceiling? two horizontal joints? thanks.
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Old 04-24-2012, 11:19 AM   #25
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standing up osb when sheathing walls will fail inspection here anyway.. every sheet is clearly stamped with which way it should be installed.being horizontally.. every inspector knows to look for the arrows running perpindicular to the framing.
The advantage of installing OSB vertically is that every edge has a nailing surface. That significantly adds to the shear strength of the wall. Installing it horizontally requires installing solid blocking if you are to achieve the same shear strength (6" nail spacing on the edges). All that blocking bumps up material and labor costs. I don't think orientation alone affects the design strength of the wall. Now, roofs are a different matter...

That said...what works for one local building jurisdiction may not work for another.
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Old 04-24-2012, 12:07 PM   #26
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That said...what works for one local building jurisdiction may not work for another.
True , no blocking at all where I'm from installing sheathing horizontally.
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Old 04-24-2012, 12:28 PM   #27
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you sure don't have the amount of nails in a sheet if you install structural sheathing horizontally. how that affects racking resistance i don't know. maybe two sheets nailed to the same stud (vertical installation) are a weak link. i'll have to ask the engineer about this when we chat later.
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Old 04-24-2012, 01:17 PM   #28
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Fourth time in last two years; http://www.apawood.org/pablog/index....al-or-Vertical

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Old 04-24-2012, 01:37 PM   #29
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After further research; the gaps are mainly for the acclimation from factory 6%-8%MC to outside application of 30-80%MC. After 48 hours, OSB has swelled to maximum---- unless wet later due to diffusion/water leakage. They even suggest nailing it on wall to support it, then later finish the nailing after it acclimates because it is an engineered product. http://www.apawood.org/level_c.cfm?c...ub_tch_libmain

Just be careful not to excessively over-drive the fasteners for reduced shear value; http://timber.ce.wsu.edu/Resources/papers/P81.pdf

Joe, NJ is not in a critical seismic zone as I am in "D"; http://publicecodes.citation.com/ico...001_par004.htm

Kirk, Canadians must install their product horizontally for strength: http://osbguide.tecotested.com/pdfs/en/tb104.pdf

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Old 04-24-2012, 01:48 PM   #30
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Kirk, Canadians must install their product horizontally for strength: http://osbguide.tecotested.com/pdfs/en/tb104.pdf
Huh. Doesn't that contradict something stated in your previous link? Maybe there's something subtle in the language I'm missing...

"The racking resistance of APA plywood or OSB wall bracing panels and the lateral load capacity of a shear wall for wind and seismic loading are not affected by the orientation of the sheathing panels. Panels may be installed with the long, or strength, axis either horizontal or vertical"

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