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Old 04-27-2011, 08:23 AM   #16
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Carport Lean to Roof Question..


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Originally Posted by GBR in WA View Post
Pretty much stuck with what you have . Tell us the exact height of the existing peak garage roof and your new wall height. May want to change the gable direction to the 18' span way for a 4/12. Also can drop some of the rafter meat into the garage on hangers to get a steeper pitch.
I was talking about the siding drooping (in the center of the run) 1-2" on the car side of the old garage. Usually that is an indication of a sagging wall and/or sagging ridge line. You'll want to string-line it for straight when installing the new one or jack up the old ridge first, if sagging.

Gary
I need to go home and measure the exact height but I am fairly sure the peak of the existing roof is 11'5" and the new exterior wall height is 8'

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Old 04-27-2011, 11:17 AM   #17
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A few houses in my neighborhood have the same exact thing. Most of them have car ports. Once I install 2 new garage doors and I trim it out properly its gonna look great. I live in a very nice neighborhood with nice houses on it.
BTW... the reason you can't see it from your house is probably because the trailer park you live in is behind the landfill.
Oh don't worry, I don't take any offense.
Now, in you mind's eye set up a group of baboons all in a row with their back-sides toward you. Got that?
O.K. Still pretty ugly isn't it? It seems no matter how many you have together it is still not all that attractive is it?

I apologize if I offended you, I didn't realize that that you were the originator of that particular style of car-port/garage structure. I had just assumed at first that you were just copying what you saw around your neighborhood but then realizing how much you were offended by my comment I see that you must be the originator.

Sorry, have a nice day.

Andy.
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Old 04-27-2011, 11:36 AM   #18
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Carport Lean to Roof Question..


I'm sure it's too late now, but I can't help but wonder how much easier this could be if you completely removed the roof off the original garage, and installed new rafters over the entire span.
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Old 04-27-2011, 01:03 PM   #19
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I'm sure it's too late now, but I can't help but wonder how much easier this could be if you completely removed the roof off the original garage, and installed new rafters over the entire span.
Because the original garage is in such poor condition it just wasn't possible to tear the roof off and do it properly.
My garage was built on dirt. When I bought the house there was no floor to speak of in the garage. Probably 30 years ago somebody tried paving it inside. There was a large maple tree growing directly in the rear corner of the garage and the roots tour up all the asphalt and it pushed the back of the garage in and bowed the side. I had a contractor cut down the tree but he wouldn't remove the stump because when he tried to lift it it was lifting the entire garage. I spend a long time digging out around the stump and cutting the roots with a chain saw. Eventually I got it to the point where a contractor was able to remove it with a backhoe. Also, since the garage was built on dirt 80 years ago there was no sill plate left or even a remnant of one so the garage sunk 6 inches over the years.
Its actually a real mess but I am up for the challenge and its fairly structurally sound now.
I poured a new slab in the garage and I am in the process of digging out the foundation a little section at a time and pouring a new foundation and blocking it. I am using jackable columns to hold the sections up when I cut the bottoms of the studs. After a new section of foundation is done I sister up new studs to the existing ones and toe them into the new sill. I then move on to the next section.
Its going to take me a bunch of weekends to get it all done but eventually I will.
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Old 04-27-2011, 01:10 PM   #20
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Oh don't worry, I don't take any offense.
Now, in you mind's eye set up a group of baboons all in a row with their back-sides toward you. Got that?
O.K. Still pretty ugly isn't it? It seems no matter how many you have together it is still not all that attractive is it?

I apologize if I offended you, I didn't realize that that you were the originator of that particular style of car-port/garage structure. I had just assumed at first that you were just copying what you saw around your neighborhood but then realizing how much you were offended by my comment I see that you must be the originator.

Sorry, have a nice day.

Andy.
I am not affended. I actually thought your comment was funny.
I agree.. its not going to be one of those garages you see in Homes and Gardens and if Holmes on Holmes came to my house he would just tear it down and start from scratch.
I am copying other garages in my neighborhood but mine is the only one that is being completely enclosed with a garage door on it.
I don't know if you could picture this but...
I am ripping all the trim and shingles off of the front of my existing garage. I am also reframing the old garage door so that it is the same height as the new addition. I am then ordering 2 new garage doors. One is 8', the other is 9'. They will have those little fancy rectangular windows on them.
The side of the new addition has a door and a slider window.
I am going to refinish the front of both the old garage and the new addition as one unit. New shingles and all new wood trim.
I am hoping it won't look that bad enclosed once I trim it out properly. If it looks as good as my neighbor across the streets open carport I will be very happy.
Again... I thought your comment was funny and I was just joking about the trailer park thing.
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Old 04-27-2011, 02:20 PM   #21
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Because the original garage is in such poor condition it just wasn't possible to tear the roof off and do it properly.
My garage was built on dirt. When I bought the house there was no floor to speak of in the garage. Probably 30 years ago somebody tried paving it inside. There was a large maple tree growing directly in the rear corner of the garage and the roots tour up all the asphalt and it pushed the back of the garage in and bowed the side. I had a contractor cut down the tree but he wouldn't remove the stump because when he tried to lift it it was lifting the entire garage. I spend a long time digging out around the stump and cutting the roots with a chain saw. Eventually I got it to the point where a contractor was able to remove it with a backhoe. Also, since the garage was built on dirt 80 years ago there was no sill plate left or even a remnant of one so the garage sunk 6 inches over the years.
Its actually a real mess but I am up for the challenge and its fairly structurally sound now.
I poured a new slab in the garage and I am in the process of digging out the foundation a little section at a time and pouring a new foundation and blocking it. I am using jackable columns to hold the sections up when I cut the bottoms of the studs. After a new section of foundation is done I sister up new studs to the existing ones and toe them into the new sill. I then move on to the next section.
Its going to take me a bunch of weekends to get it all done but eventually I will.
Dang.
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Old 04-27-2011, 02:47 PM   #22
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Dang.
Yea, Dang is a good word for it. I am planning to get the rafters and the support truss for the rafters in on Saturday. Its going to be interesting.
I am most likely going to go with a 2 x 8 x 20 ledger board attached to my existing roof rafters 1 course down from the peak. I am going lag bolt it in and shoot some long spikes in there.
I am then going to place a rafter on the board and on the outer wall edge and figure out what the angle is that I need to cut the bottom of the rafter so that it will sit fairly flush with the roof. At this time I need to also figure out the birdsmouth cut. Once I figure that out I will make the cuts and see how it fits. I will then try the same board on every rafter on my existing roof to make sure it fits everywhere. If it does... I will take it down and use it as a template to cut the other 9 rafters. Once they are cut I can nail and bracket them in and get to building a support truss for the rafters. I plan on going from the inner wall sill straight up to the new rafters and sistering up 2 x 4's to them. I will bracket those too. Next up is constructing nailers for the front and back walls from the top sill to the 1st and last rafter. I then need to figure out what type of soffet I am going to have and I will cut the rafter ends with a circular saw. Then.. on to plywood and all the roofing stuff that needs to be done. That will probably be Sunday.
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Old 04-27-2011, 04:51 PM   #23
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Yea, Dang is a good word for it. I am planning to get the rafters and the support truss for the rafters in on Saturday. Its going to be interesting.
I am most likely going to go with a 2 x 8 x 20 ledger board attached to my existing roof rafters 1 course down from the peak. I am going lag bolt it in and shoot some long spikes in there.
I am then going to place a rafter on the board and on the outer wall edge and figure out what the angle is that I need to cut the bottom of the rafter so that it will sit fairly flush with the roof. At this time I need to also figure out the birdsmouth cut. Once I figure that out I will make the cuts and see how it fits. I will then try the same board on every rafter on my existing roof to make sure it fits everywhere. If it does... I will take it down and use it as a template to cut the other 9 rafters. Once they are cut I can nail and bracket them in and get to building a support truss for the rafters. I plan on going from the inner wall sill straight up to the new rafters and sistering up 2 x 4's to them. I will bracket those too. Next up is constructing nailers for the front and back walls from the top sill to the 1st and last rafter. I then need to figure out what type of soffet I am going to have and I will cut the rafter ends with a circular saw. Then.. on to plywood and all the roofing stuff that needs to be done. That will probably be Sunday.
Do you have the exact height of the existing ridge off the top plate? Are the existing rafters 2x6?
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Old 04-27-2011, 09:37 PM   #24
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Why not just build your new roof with a gable end at the right side of the car, left gable end laying on the existing roof, same peak height, pp.188;(but gable, not hip) http://books.google.com/books?id=bwt...dormer&f=false This intersecting gable roof would be about a 4/12 as I said before. Your valleys would be on the old roof and you could cantilever the ridge board out to help support on the old roof.

Gary
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Old 04-27-2011, 10:45 PM   #25
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Why not just build your new roof with a gable end at the right side of the car, left gable end laying on the existing roof, same peak height, pp.188;(but gable, not hip) http://books.google.com/books?id=bwt...dormer&f=false This intersecting gable roof would be about a 4/12 as I said before. Your valleys would be on the old roof and you could cantilever the ridge board out to help support on the old roof.

Gary
Thats a really good idea but it requires too much expertise for me and my friend who is helping me.
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Old 04-27-2011, 11:12 PM   #26
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You could order the 18' trusses and just build the over-frame above the garage, we could help you..... A lot of experience on this site, framing and drawing skills....to DIY.

Gary
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Old 04-27-2011, 11:26 PM   #27
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Do you have the exact height of the existing ridge off the top plate? Are the existing rafters 2x6?
The existing rafters are dimensional 2 x 4's. The garage was originally built in around 1932. It is on 24" centers. The existing rafters are in excellent condition.
The peak of my existing garage is 11'5". The outside wall of the addition is 8'1"
The span between the peak and new wall is approx 17'.
I can't put my rafters all the way to the peak of the old roof though. I am mounting a ledger board about 1 course down from the peak and fastening the rafters to that after I angle cut them. The rafters I bought are 2 x 8 x 20. My roof requires 10 of them.
One of my buddies is a builder and when he stopped by he told me the pitch of my new roof is going to be between 2:12 and 3:12.
Around here thats fairly normal for a carport. I just need to invest in a good roof rake for the winter.
It would be nice if there was someway to keep the same roof style as I am planning on but increasing the pitch of it but I don't see any way to do that.
Could I cut the birdsmouth deeper since I have a 2 x 8 rafter or do I have to stick with the 1.5" depth?
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Old 04-27-2011, 11:26 PM   #28
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I think Gary is talking about something like this.

Andy.
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Old 04-28-2011, 10:53 AM   #29
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I think Gary is talking about something like this.

Andy.

Yea, thats really nice looking. I have several limitations that prevent me from doing that...mainly money and help.
I have 1 guy to help me on Saturday and he isn't a builder or a carpenter either. I have done inside remodeling, decks and patios and I am an auto and motorcycle mechanic but a job like that is above my head even if I did get alot of help here. I need to get the roof up this Saturday and covered with CDX and felt paper on Sunday morning. I already purchased the rafters and the plywood. That design would certainly look better though. Unfortunately, I am stuck with what I have. I still have to buy new garage doors, wood shingles, roofing shingles, a door, window and all the trim to make it look presentable. In regards to trimming it out when its done structurally, I am positive I can make it look nice.
All the help here so far is outstanding. This is a really good forum. I got alot of help with a plumbing issue a few months back. The advice I got was outstanding.
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Old 04-28-2011, 11:39 AM   #30
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The existing rafters are dimensional 2 x 4's. The garage was originally built in around 1932. It is on 24" centers. The existing rafters are in excellent condition.
The peak of my existing garage is 11'5". The outside wall of the addition is 8'1"
The span between the peak and new wall is approx 17'.
I can't put my rafters all the way to the peak of the old roof though. I am mounting a ledger board about 1 course down from the peak and fastening the rafters to that after I angle cut them. The rafters I bought are 2 x 8 x 20. My roof requires 10 of them.
One of my buddies is a builder and when he stopped by he told me the pitch of my new roof is going to be between 2:12 and 3:12.
Around here thats fairly normal for a carport. I just need to invest in a good roof rake for the winter.
It would be nice if there was someway to keep the same roof style as I am planning on but increasing the pitch of it but I don't see any way to do that.
Could I cut the birdsmouth deeper since I have a 2 x 8 rafter or do I have to stick with the 1.5" depth?
I draw it later how you can scribe exactly what you need.

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