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Carport to Garage
I currently have a carport and I intend to change this to a garage. This carport is enclosed from two sides. Only front and back are open.
So I want to close the backside of the carport with a matching wall to my house exterior wall. Obviously I wll put a new garage doors in the front. Now the questions are - 1) What kind of contractor I should be looking to get this job done ? Stucco contractor or drywall contractor ? 2) I am not sure what is there in city records. If it is listed as carport in city records, I should be getting permit from city, right ? 3) Are there any hints, what are all the right questions, I would be asking the contractor to make sure he is taking care of all the right things ? Appreciate your help. |
You would get a Remodeling contractor. You would need to determine if the proper footings and foundation are in place to convert this structure. The plans might be on file in your local building dept. If the foundation is proper, it will be a much easier job.
Ron |
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It looks like this requires framing and stucco. What all the things contractor needs to do to make sure all are in place. Like one contractor said -it requires 3 coats of stucco.. what does that mean? Why 3 coats is required ? what kind of framing nees to be used 2X4's ? I would like to some understanding on these aspects so that I can be assured the guy is doing the right job. |
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I don't think you need my help, you seem to have everything under control. Ron |
Like Ron Had mentioned, get a contractor. Get at least 3 bids meet them inperson and listen to what they say and how they explain what needs to be done. Check the bids carefully and make sure they all covered everthing that needs to be done. Don't always take the low bid... If you haven't figured it out some things are best left to the pros.
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Another thing is - A contractor came by a few minutes back and gave me a quote - He says, it needs framing. Inside will be drywall and outside would be stucco matching & connecting to my house exterior wall. Due to the above two reasons - I said the foundation is proper. Hpoe this explains. |
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I doubt very much the perimeters of the slab for the carport are deep/thick/wide enough to support walls when initially poured. You will likely need a permit for this conversion because of the seismic area. This is also important for the paper trail for your Insurance coverage and if you ever sell the place in the future. Hold-downs, shear walls and roof ties are required. Check with the County first, they handle most property taxes and the City handles the permits (usually).
Gary |
Just as Gary said plus some. When converting a car-port to a garage, especially one that is attached to a house and in California there are many considerations that go into building a proper garage.
Will there be a door to the house? Is there presently any drywall on the garage/house wall? Will there be? Will you be putting a washer/dryer combo out there? Lots to think abut if you need it done correctly and to code. Andy. And what is a "hardness zone"? |
You first need to determine the scope of the project. Then you need to find how your carport was built, thickness of slab, footings size and depth. Will the foundation support the weight of the new framing, and roof? Now, this will come as a shock, but you will need to spend some money to find out these things. Qualified contractors will need to be paid money to determine the viability of your project.
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1. Went to City and in their record, it is a carport. Hence I need to get framing approval and electrical approval. Also they would check the foundation whether or not it meets the current code. Even though I have foundation (don't know really) that will still not meed the code since the foundatin code is changed in 1990 and my house is built in 1970. Hence either I have to lay the foundation or upgrade the foundation to meet the code. 2. Currently though wall is shared between carport and house there is no door attached to it. 3. The shared wall is a drywall. 4. I am not sure about dryer/washer, but I am definitely going to move my tak water heater to garage. Other than that no other plans, except using the remaining space to store tools. My hardniess zone is - 8 - 10. |
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You are in the LA area right?
Shoot me an email, I know a couple of really good contractors in your area. Send me a scope of work and I might be able to give you some preliminary budget numbers. I hit a button and am getting italicized letters now. Weird. Andy. |
Ah yes "hardiness" zone. That is for plantings and whatnot right?
You are seismic zone D-sub0 or D-sub1 which is more significant for your purposes. Andy. |
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