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-   -   Cantilevered Clothes Rail w/ Black Pipe (http://www.diychatroom.com/f19/cantilevered-clothes-rail-w-black-pipe-184646/)

EdDantes 08-02-2013 01:00 PM

Cantilevered Clothes Rail w/ Black Pipe
 
Hey everyone,
Lurked for awhile, but this is my first post. I'm currently working on a project to install some custom clothes rods made out of black pipe. I want to install them on a wall without floor or ceiling support. You can see an example of my design for one of the brackets below. The clothes rod will be 36" long (extending out from the elbow), and there will be another bracket on the other side. The rod itself is 10" away from the wall.

I'd like to mount these on drywall w/ 2x4 wood studs. Based on the design, I'm not going to be able to anchor both sides to a stud. To remedy that, I'm going to install 2x4s with lag screws spanning 2 or 3 studs, then mount the 4 flanges to the 2x4s.

As far as I can tell, my issue will be dealing with the cantlivered load that's trying to pull everything out of the studs. Is the above setup going to be enough to deal with the weight? Any other suggestions?

Thanks,

https://www.dropbox.com/s/j15iy3axws...2011.01.56.jpg

EdDantes 08-02-2013 01:03 PM

Sorry, original image link not working.

http://i73.photobucket.com/albums/i2...8-02110156.jpg

joecaption 08-02-2013 01:19 PM

A whole lot simpler to use 2, 1 X 4's screwed to the studs on the wall. One side gets a hole to fit the pipe, the other side you make the hole but then use a jig saw to remove the top part.
You put the pipe in the side with the hole and just drop the other side into the slot.
Or even a set of brackets like this would look a whole lot better then all that piping.
http://www.bing.com/images/search?q=...ectedIndex=506

EdDantes 08-02-2013 01:46 PM

Thanks for the response.

A few things:
1) Part of this is that I actually like the look of the pipe. Not for everyone, I agree. That's why I didn't go with the other brackets.

2) This will be for a free standing closet, so there are no side walls to mount supports on. This all needs to be supported from the back wall.

RoyalAcresRod 08-02-2013 02:07 PM

In your picture, is the wood on the floor, or the wall?

EdDantes 08-02-2013 02:12 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by RoyalAcresRod (Post 1224197)
In your picture, is the wood on the floor, or the wall?

It's the floor. But I've rotated the picture 90 degrees to give the orientation of the way the bracket will hang on the wall.

RoyalAcresRod 08-02-2013 02:37 PM

I see no reason why your design would not work. I'd probably make the rod at least 11-11.5" from the wall to fit standard size hangers, so that the clothes don't rub the wall too much.

The closer to the floor the bottom brackets are, the less pulling force will be exerted.

IMHO, hiding your cleats inside the wall will make for a much nicer look.

I'd probably use well-nailed 2X6 cleats in the wall. They will give you a little bit more wiggle room for mounting the bases, and not have your fasteners so close to the edge of the boards.

EdDantes 08-02-2013 03:11 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by RoyalAcresRod (Post 1224207)
I see no reason why your design would not work. I'd probably make the rod at least 11-11.5" from the wall to fit standard size hangers, so that the clothes don't rub the wall too much.

The closer to the floor the bottom brackets are, the less pulling force will be exerted.

IMHO, hiding your cleats inside the wall will make for a much nicer look.

I'd probably use well-nailed 2X6 cleats in the wall. They will give you a little bit more wiggle room for mounting the bases, and not have your fasteners so close to the edge of the boards.

Thanks. Good point on giving a bit more room with the 2x6s. I would love to hide them in the wall, but cutting and replacing the drywall isn't something I'm going to be allowed to do (this is a rental property, and the landlord is cool with nail/screw holes, but he's going to balk at cutting into the drywall). I'll probably round over the edges with a router and paint to match the wall. Not as nice as if they were hidden, but they should blend in.

I was pretty sure this would be ok (at least theoretically), but just wanted to get some other opinions to see if it would work in reality.

SPS-1 08-02-2013 04:14 PM

I like your design. Going to be very solid.

hand drive 08-04-2013 10:31 AM

pick up some structural large threaded screws to attach the top part to wall with for max pullout prevention. should work fine with those, might need to tow the screws in a little at the sides to make it into the stud... bottom brackets do not need a heavy screw just a screw with strong shear support.

EdDantes 08-05-2013 09:34 AM

2 Attachment(s)
Thanks for all the advice. Put them up this weekend.

Basically, I took 2x6s that had been planed to 1-1/4" and ripped to 5" wide. I put a Roman Ogee around the edge then sanded, primed and painted to match the wall. To mount them I used 4" TimberLOC screws to mount them to 2 studs. I mounted the racks with 4 1/4" x 1-1/4" lag screws in each flange. Probably overkill on the lag screws through the flanges, but I wanted to be safe. Still have to finish/mount shelves on the tops and install a rod for a curtain to hide the clothes.

RoyalAcresRod 08-05-2013 10:00 AM

Very nice. I live those TimberLok screws. Expensive...but worth it in many instances

EdDantes 08-05-2013 12:02 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by RoyalAcresRod (Post 1225274)
Very nice. I live those TimberLok screws. Expensive...but worth it in many instances

They were fantastic to use--very easy. $50 is worth it to feel more confident I'm not going to wake up with a giant piece of drywall laying on the floor. Possibly with my girlfriend under it.


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