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Old 08-02-2010, 08:43 PM   #1
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can you build eaves , gable overhangs


can I build eaves, soffits, and gable end overhangs on a roof without screwing up existing roof?? new shingles put on one side last year so need to splice into those for now until next set goes on??

other side shingles are 20 years old and not as much concern. Any best way of adding rakes and eaves on a 40's era non overhang eave house???

doing complete exterior remodel, new doors windows siding(demo old siding) blow sidewall insulation ., tyvek, etc

thanks for any help
-d-

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Old 08-02-2010, 09:12 PM   #2
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can you build eaves , gable overhangs


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Originally Posted by 4just1don View Post
can I build eaves, soffits, and gable end overhangs on a roof without screwing up existing roof?? new shingles put on one side last year so need to splice into those for now until next set goes on??

other side shingles are 20 years old and not as much concern. Any best way of adding rakes and eaves on a 40's era non overhang eave house???

doing complete exterior remodel, new doors windows siding(demo old siding) blow sidewall insulation ., tyvek, etc

thanks for any help
-d-
It is possible. The biggest problem is that the sheeting for the soffits should run back to the next rafter on the gables and perhaps 24" back from the present fascia.
A truss arrangement would be made to extend the rafters.
The main problem would be that your windows would be low enough, at the top; to clear the new soffits.

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Old 08-02-2010, 09:31 PM   #3
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can you build eaves , gable overhangs


hey there buddy,
i think the only way to really do this is to open up the roof a few feet up from the eaves and to the second rafter in from the rakes.

then you'll be installing "lookouts" off that 2nd rafter, notched through the end rafters and overhanging whatever you want, then hang a "barge" rafter off the lookouts.

for the eaves, sister some rafter tails on, with birds mouths, lapped up a few feet at least and cut however you like at the overhang (plumb/level, etc...).

then you'll run a "sub fascia" of 2X material across your tails that will extend over to catch the bottom of your overhang rafter.

i built a timber frame barn recently where all we did was hang "faux" rafter tails, nailed in from the back on a piece of 1X trim, and the sheathing was nailed on top, with a metal roof. the sheathing was 1X boards and wasn't even lapped over the real rafters.
in your case, though, you could probably get away with just running the sheathing long to catch the faux tails, but once you have the sheathing off, you might as well do it right and sister, especially if you're in an area with snow load.

i think it would be worth the effort to have some good overhangs.

for the gable ends, you might be able to get away with building some craftsman style "brackets" - basically big triangular supports bolted to the wall with the overhang rafters notched over it, with a 2X nailer against the existing end rafter to carry the new sheathing.

typically you don't see this detail on the eaves, though, so i'm not sure in your case. structurally it would probably be fine, though.

good luck.

Last edited by wombosi; 08-02-2010 at 09:36 PM.
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Old 08-02-2010, 09:39 PM   #4
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can you build eaves , gable overhangs


thanks Wildie,

I was only coming out 16-18 inches so windows should be okay.

if I have to I can shorten windows a few inches to make it work.

on the gable end overhangs can I run a 1X12 up the slope for sheathing on top of flat 2X6's cut into slots to get back to next rafter and those like 16" on center up the slope,,,only sticking that 11 1/2 inches out? Havent looked yet but outside rafter where side wall sheathing is also nailed to is probably a 2X4
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Old 08-02-2010, 10:44 PM   #5
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can you build eaves , gable overhangs


What you just described is fine, even at 24" o.c. lookouts, IF no snow load, page #26: http://books.google.com/books?id=Z8f...rafter&f=false

You just cut the notch for the 2x4's, no need to open up that 1st bay. Slide them in the hole, nail from attic, string and cut, add a sub-barge of 2x8 for the finish 1x12 or it will cup. Add a 1x3 rake board held up, the roofing and ply's thickness, to cover the end. Same with the tails as anything past the exterior walls and gable wall is considered non-structural not requiring shear flow. If in a snow area, figure double the rafter load for the rafter size.

Be safe, Gary
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