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Old 03-21-2011, 07:13 PM   #1
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Can this be removed?


Below is an image of a room I'm building from a garage. It was originally a carport, but the previous owner closed it in to convert to a garage. The wall with the diagonal brace was an outside wall (when it was a carport).


Attachment 31111

When I started, I replaced the ceiling joists with 2x8's and lifted them about 14" to sit on the top of the walls.

Question:
Given that this is no longer an outside wall, can I cut this brace out to accommodate my staggered studs?

Additional info (the image captions tell it all except note the perpendicular forward facing joists at the front over door) :

Attachment 31112

Thanks,
Mark


Last edited by rightit; 04-13-2011 at 08:29 PM.
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Old 03-21-2011, 07:42 PM   #2
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Only if you want the wall to fall down. It is there to strengthen the corner. Same reason that they put diagonal flaps on boxes that need to protect something inside. Makes it harder for the box to flex or fall apart.

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Old 03-21-2011, 08:13 PM   #3
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Can this be removed?


Yes you can remove it you have the plywood on top of the joist to pick up the shear load if you are worried about it you can cut a led in brace that will be covered by what ever finish product you are using this will pass all building codes from California's earth quakes to Florida's hurricanes. look in the simpsons catalog.
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Old 03-21-2011, 08:15 PM   #4
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Not understanding when you say it's no longer an outside wall. Do you mean it's not an exterior wall? Or do you mean it's no longer 'outside' as in outside on an open carport?

It's a brace providing for stability and strength of the wall and should typically be kept intact or replaced with some other bracing if removed.
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Old 03-21-2011, 08:19 PM   #5
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Can this be removed?


To resist racking the 1x4 can be replaced with steel wall bracing or maybe sheathing the wall with Plywood, thou I would not do anything without an Engineer OK
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Old 03-21-2011, 10:45 PM   #6
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That appears to be drywall inside the house wall. You are getting more lateral restraint from that, than a 1x4 which is not even let in or properly nailed. Add two steel diagonals as mentioned, because they are so much weaker than plywood or OSB, even though they meet minimum Code, check the poundage, LOL; http://bct.nrc.umass.edu/index.php/p...n-the-outside/

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Old 03-22-2011, 01:13 AM   #7
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Thanks for your responses. Sometimes I sacrfice detail for brevity. Always a mistake. This room will be a finished room and as mentioned, I am converting this wall (for soundproofing) to a decoupled 2x4 staggered stud wall. I've attached 2x2 furring around the perimeter (2x4 on the top plate) and am about to add the additional studs. I will be hanging two layers of 5/8" drywall with GG between. The problem with the brace is that I will have to notch out the staggered studs almost 2 " deep x 7 or 8" long, which leaves about 3 consecutive studs with a fairly large area of less than 1 1/2" thick.

The same problem will apply to steel diagonals, and I feel that adding a layer of plyboard is not practical given the double drywall. Also, since I live in hurricane country, I'm all for whatever bracing is necessary (beyond, even), so I guess my best bet will be to approach the problem from another angle...the studs I will be adding.

Given that the wall is decoupled, I need to avoid any uneccessary contact points to the existing wall. If anyone has any ideas of a good way to address this problem with little or no contact to the exisiting wall, I'd be grateful. Right now I'm thinking some kind of minimal 'spacer' between the new notched (staggered) stud (if that's the inevitability) and the brace, although I hate to have contact that spans 4 studs and the bottom plate. Or am I over-thinking this? Is a 7 or 8" tall by 2" deep notch a problem for this type of circumstance (double D.W.)?



GBR: if by 'let in' you mean that the studs it spans are notched to recess the brace to be flush to the stud face, it is (it's hard to tell by the image). And it's nailed into the notches.

Thanks for all for your comments,
Mark
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Old 03-24-2011, 09:09 PM   #8
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I would think the old house wall should be braced and the new wall attached with plywood connections, high and low. The inside garage wall is the old house wall, all the more reason to brace that one. How you connect is only to keep the drywall and wall frame from falling on you while in the garage. Depends on the load above whether notching is advised, if two roof loads or a roof and end house wall, no notch. Just add diagonal blocking in the stud bays in three different places....

Gary

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