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Old 04-10-2007, 02:44 PM   #46
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can a newbie finish a basement...


Not sure what your "finished" ceiling height would be, but most codes require 7'-0" clearance after flooring and ceiling is installed. There is a 6'-6" code for items like ducts, pipes, etc. but many details to fall within code for the lower height (and it's only at those locations).

I am in the process of planning my basement finishing in my newly purchased house and have come across a product which can significantly help those with height clearance issues and/or make a removable ceiling much simpler than suspended ceilings.

The product is called CeilingLinkô (http://www.kensa.com/). Take a look even if you have the height.

The higher the ceiling, the bigger the room will feel.

I plan on using this once I get to that stage. My personal preference is to stay far away from drywall ceilings in the basement ...removable ceilings make it much easier to access the cables, pipes, etc.

Hope this helps anyone of interest


Also links of installations using this product:

http://home.comcast.net/~otterbiker/ceiling.html

http://pagetuner.com/ceiling/

---------------
P.S. I find the Internet a great useful tool to help with this, along with publications at your side. I can't even imagine tackling this kind of work if the Internet didn't exist .......this forum being another valuable tool. ......only wished local building inspector website had more information, checklists, etc to help with prep on design/layout.

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Old 04-10-2007, 02:49 PM   #47
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This is looks like cool stuff, much better than the drop ceiling stuff from Armstrong.... but like any new products... it is yet to go through the real test cycle... but it looks good and sounds good from the link.... I wonder would it costs a lot though...
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Old 04-10-2007, 02:55 PM   #48
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KUI****G View Post
This is looks like cool stuff, much better than the drop ceiling stuff from Armstrong.... but like any new products... it is yet to go through the real test cycle... but it looks good and sounds good from the link.... I wonder would it costs a lot though...
Also, don't forget the time savings.

http://www.kensa.com/pricing.htm - Pricing page

http://www.kensa.com/cl_calc.htm - Pricing Calculator

CeilingLink $3.90 per 8-foot length L-Channel $2.90 per 8-foot length
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Old 04-10-2007, 02:59 PM   #49
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I have made some changes based on some of the comments made. I am still fighting with the location of the bathroom in relation to the bedroom. All the drains are around where i have the bath room right. I dont want to break too much of the concrete. let me know what you think.



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Old 04-10-2007, 03:00 PM   #50
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I think Armstrong has a reason to worry about this product... If I haven't done mine in drywall already, I would definitely give this a consideration... may be Yummy Mummy can think about this as she hasn't done her yet...
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Old 04-10-2007, 03:02 PM   #51
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If you could combine your laundry room with the bath room... it may be a good idea... as you get larger area to do laundry or taking a bath and very often... laundry plumbing and bath room plumbing on the same wall is easier to install and cost you less...
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Old 04-10-2007, 03:06 PM   #52
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Ceiling looks pretty cool but how do you compensate for the areas with pipes and stuff?
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Old 04-10-2007, 03:09 PM   #53
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I just saw this new type of ceiling, and maybe I should consider it?

I have not done mine yet.
The only thing, I really don't like the look of the grooves in the panel.

I still may consider it though.
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Old 04-10-2007, 03:13 PM   #54
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Quote:
Originally Posted by konboy View Post
I have made some changes based on some of the comments made. I am still fighting with the location of the bathroom in relation to the bedroom. All the drains are around where i have the bath room right. I dont want to break too much of the concrete. let me know what you think.


Something doesn't look right. This new plan is showing the stairs to the main floor more toward the center of the basement. Are you moving the staircase???? The new plan shows the bottom stair tread 19 feet out from left exterior wall.....previous plan shows 10 feet. Which plan is correct?

Don't forget to locate those existing beam posts in your plan!



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Old 04-10-2007, 03:16 PM   #55
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Quote:
Originally Posted by yummy mummy View Post
I just saw this new type of ceiling, and maybe I should consider it?

I have not done mine yet.
The only thing, I really don't like the look of the grooves in the panel.

I still may consider it though.
You mean the strips? I think it would be hard to tell from this and a drop ceiling ...unless you were thinking of going the drywall route.




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Old 04-10-2007, 03:20 PM   #56
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The stairs are 15ft from the back wall... as for he beam... I am going to put dry wall on both sides of it to hide it .
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Old 04-10-2007, 03:24 PM   #57
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Quote:
Originally Posted by konboy View Post
The stairs are 15ft from the back wall... as for he beam... I am going to put dry wall on both sides of it to hide it .
15? the new plan show 19'.

I was suggesting that you draw in the post locations in plan so you know they will not be in a doorway, hallway, or right at a light switch or receptacle.
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Old 04-10-2007, 03:29 PM   #58
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I guess I was in my own little world . I will try and put a new updated plan after I take some more accurate measurements of the basement. For some reason I think I messed up my measurements
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Old 04-10-2007, 03:31 PM   #59
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You have seemed to completely box in your furnace and hot water tank. How are you going to access this room?? I don't think you can access this room from the closet if you think that route.

Also, there are codes for minimum clearances around the heating systems and required air volume area for combustion.

Might be easier to do the plumbing if the sink was on the same wall as the shower and toilet.



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Old 04-10-2007, 03:46 PM   #60
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If you really want to go all out and be the cool one on the block install one of these doors:

http://www.hiddendoors.com/galleryThumb.asp?category=13


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