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Old 04-07-2007, 12:28 PM   #31
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I would want to do this two rooms first.... room A is 13 x 10 and room B is 13 x 20. At 16" apart, are my estimates for approx. 75 pieces of 2x4 (+_ 3) accurate? I know I will need some Top and Bottom plates as well.... Anything else that I will need?

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Old 04-07-2007, 07:34 PM   #32
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can a newbie finish a basement...


Just a few notes:

- Your plan with dimensions (from page to of this thread) indicates the bathroom at the lower left corner. You placed the bathroom fixtures in where it's labeled work-out room.

- In picture, what is sticking out of the floor near the lower left corner (according to the dimensioned plan)?

- The 2 plans are different, which one is more current?

- Make sure you locate where the existing beam posts are. The plan with the dimensions shows a door opening right where there is a post!

- Did you take in account king studs and trimmers at the doors?

- At wall intersects you need:
-Intermediate wall = 3 studs
-Inside corner = 3 studs
-Outside corner = 2 studs

- Did you figure in top plates?

- Did you figure in bottom plates?

- Door headers?

- Where are your existing beam posts?

- Good reference book for you to use is: Remodeling a Basement by Roger German (ISBN #: 1-56158-659-5) book will help you with the framing layout and bill of materials ....along with everything else.
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Old 04-07-2007, 07:49 PM   #33
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I will take care of the floor plan and put some better labeling up.
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Old 04-08-2007, 07:22 AM   #34
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Depending on your local codes, you may need to install fire blocking in your walls. The 2x4 segments will add up with the number of walls you have.
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Old 04-08-2007, 08:25 AM   #35
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Regarding the amount of stock you will need for the walls:
Realize that you will need alot more than the numbers you might come up with by dividing the 16" OC into each wall segment. You need extra for the corners - to properly tie them in so your sheetrock will not crack there. You will need extra for each door openings (double the sides and top area up - for your casing).

FWIW: Here's a concept that wastes time and money in basement remodels:
Often people will 'overframe' the walls in the process of finishing off their basements.
The home is already properly supported. The walls being built in the basement are not load bearing. So each wall is really a non load-bearing 'partition'.
Thus, you can use screws (if you wanted to) to assemble the 2x4's and other framing members as there are no shear-strength requirements.
Also, there is no need to fabricate and install structural headers into the doorways.

Last edited by AtlanticWBConst.; 04-08-2007 at 08:37 AM. Reason: spelling
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Old 04-09-2007, 10:56 AM   #36
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Since the walls are not load bearing what is the the downside in spacing by 24". "ATLANTIC": you said " You need extra for the corners - to properly tie them in so your sheetrock will not crack there." what does that mean... ?

Please explain if you can... and a simple picture will do just perfect
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Old 04-09-2007, 11:10 AM   #37
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In my opinion its too chopped up. I cant read all the labels in your first floor plan. i suppose it depends on your intended uses. i see you want a bath but its through the living room to get to it from the bed room. They should be adjacent so if you have a full time occupant in the bed room they do not need to trapse through living room to get to the bath. Also, the door entering the room on the bottom right of your last drawing should hinge on the other side so it opens against the wall. Same for the third room from the left, top half of the drawing. The door into the room on the bottom right should be away from the stair wall enough to get trim around it.
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Old 04-09-2007, 11:20 AM   #38
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Quote:
Originally Posted by konboy View Post
Since the walls are not load bearing what is the the downside in spacing by 24". "ATLANTIC": you said " You need extra for the corners - to properly tie them in so your sheetrock will not crack there." what does that mean... ?

Please explain if you can... and a simple picture will do just perfect
Hope this helps you ...remember that book I mentioned will help you in all aspects of the project.

http://www.doityourself.com/stry/buildingwallstudwind

http://www.dos.state.ny.us/code/ener...manFraming.pdf

http://www.extremehowto.com/xh/print...ticle_id=60256

http://www.tpub.com/engbas/6-13.htm

http://www.thisoldhouse.com/toh/newh...7320-1,00.html

http://www.rd.com/familyhandyman/content/17480/0/

http://www.hammerzone.com/archives/f...on1/alcove.htm

http://www.hometime.com/Howto/projec...ng/frame_4.htm

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Framing_(construction)

http://www.awc.org/pdf/WCD1-300.pdf
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Old 04-09-2007, 02:41 PM   #39
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I like to use steel studs in a basement. Easy to work with, all straight, low weight, holes in it for the wiring. Only thing is the higher cost. But the ease at which you can set it up, well worth the extra money. There is a slight learning curve and a few extra safety steps, such as a face shield and hat for cutting.
My 12 year old son was cutting these and fabricating the soffit boxes. He came away with all his fingers and most of his red blood cells.
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Old 04-09-2007, 02:53 PM   #40
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Poster said:
"I would want to do this two rooms first.... room A is 13 x 10 and room B is 13 x 20. At 16" apart, are my estimates for approx. 75 pieces of 2x4 (+_ 3) accurate? I know I will need some Top and Bottom plates as well.... Anything else that I will need?"

Just calculate 1 stud for each linear foot of wall. Much easier. You'll use multiple studs around doors, windows, steel support beams and in corners.
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Old 04-09-2007, 06:08 PM   #41
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AKDStorm,

Nice illustration to show how corners should be set up to properly attach the sheetrock to.

I would not recommend spreading studs beyond 16 OC even on 'partition' walls. Obviously, your outside walls will need insulation in them. Also, you want studs every 16" to help attach your baseboard to....
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Old 04-09-2007, 09:57 PM   #42
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The 16 inch center or 24 inch center issue has always been interesting to me. I have had inspectors that only wanted to see 16 they told me it it was stronger better the right way to do it. I had other inspectors say If you went 24 centers you could get more insulation in those walls. It really does not cost that much more to go 16 centers is their someone who has actually done some kind of study on this. I guess we could do the, what is it 19 and something center. You know that diamond on the tape measure that save you one whopping stud every 8 feet.
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Old 04-10-2007, 08:15 AM   #43
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AKDStorm,

I bought the book... I cant wait for it to come so I can start reading it. I am currently doing the moisture test. The first two days there was nothing and it has been raining a lot.

I also have a side question. Since the house is radiant heated, how do I get the basement heated?
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Old 04-10-2007, 01:05 PM   #44
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Re basement heat. Radiant heat is nice but you wont want to bust up the slab. Maybe consult with the techs who service your system and ask them if there is capacity and capability to add a zone of hot water base boards. Hot water baseboards would make it real comfy.

I added one of these.
from
http://www.vermontcastings.com/conte...ils.cfm?id=335
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Old 04-10-2007, 01:11 PM   #45
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If my calculation is correct, total area of the basement is approx 1000 sq. ft... for that I think there are too many rooms... but this is totally personal favour....


a nice drawing utility you have there... I bought something like that from the internet but it is a total waste of money for mine as it cannot draw such nice pictures you have there.......


Last edited by KUIPORNG; 04-10-2007 at 01:13 PM.
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