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-   -   Can I cut this wood block out and then just nail it back in? (http://www.diychatroom.com/f19/can-i-cut-wood-block-out-then-just-nail-back-159875/)

amodoko 10-12-2012 07:47 PM

Can I cut this wood block out and then just nail it back in?
 
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This wooden block is in the way of me soldering, can I just cut it out and then reinstall it? Is that safe? I'm talking about the wood block that is lighter in color and is in the center of the photo. Thanks so much for the advice just don't want to mess anything up. Take care

sixeightten 10-12-2012 07:52 PM

That block is a brace for the wall. Reinstalling it can be difficult now that the wall is covered with drywall.

Rocket98 10-12-2012 09:18 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by amodoko (Post 1029619)
This wooden block is in the way of me soldering, can I just cut it out and then reinstall it? Is that safe? I'm talking about the wood block that is lighter in color and is in the center of the photo. Thanks so much for the advice just don't want to mess anything up. Take care

Yes, you may have to toe nail it

joecaption 10-12-2012 09:23 PM

What is it your soldering, that boards a long way from the pipes. Just air the flame down.

sublime2 10-12-2012 09:53 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by amodoko
This wooden block is in the way of me soldering, can I just cut it out and then reinstall it? Is that safe? I'm talking about the wood block that is lighter in color and is in the center of the photo. Thanks so much for the advice just don't want to mess anything up. Take care

It appears that it may have been a nailer.
Its not a fire stop. You could cut it out and leave it out.it's not supporting anything.

amodoko 10-12-2012 10:31 PM

Thanks guys, I think I'm just going to cut a portion of that block out and then nail it back in when I'm done soldering. And to answer joecaption, I'm soldering a frost proof sillcock in (didn't feel like using a shark bite since I've heard mixed things about their reliability over the years) and it is really hard to tell in the photos but it actually is far up in there and between pipes and wood. I actually had a thread on it here with more photos if you're interested:

http://www.diychatroom.com/f7/help-n...llcock-159113/

It is so tight that I can't fit my benzomatic propane torch in there, the pictures don't show it well though.

If I don't cut the wood block out, I would have to do a roundabout path with more copper and couplings (which is fine too, but I want to avoid that).

mae-ling 10-12-2012 11:19 PM

Sometimes in tight spaces best to cut back further, cut out section then solder in fitting then solder the whole piece in. This depends on how it is all located.

Gary in WA 10-13-2012 12:52 AM

If not backing for a wall below (holding it plumb, or a drywall ceiling nailer backing) check if the stairs land there. I run the newel post 2x's through the floor and attach to the joists for lateral strength above. If that vertical 2x in the shadow goes through the floor... or the end of a short (1/2) wall.
It's there for a reason.

Gary

amodoko 10-13-2012 02:40 AM

Hmmm, I don't know if I should cut it then since I don't want to mess anything up. This is in a basement corner actually, and it is also the corner of the house, meaning the outside of the walls there is just my parents' lawn. It looked like the wood block was being used for support, but I hoped the main support was within the walls (shown in the photo to the right where another wood block is sitting on top of it, perpendicular to where the wood block I want to cut runs ). It looked like the part I wanted to cut was safe to cut, but I'm not good at analyzing structure.

I should have taken more photos,but I was hoping that I could just cut it, and then nail it back in and it would be sufficient support. Or maybe even use lag bolts or extra wood blocking for reinforcement.

Hmmmm...

Tham 10-13-2012 01:19 PM

It looks to me that it's a block they used to frame the wall to. If floating walls it might be hung from it. If not and your walls sheathed in drywall you can probably live without it.

tham

sublime2 10-13-2012 11:17 PM

Buy yourself a cats claw.remove the 2 nails holding that piece of wood on the left.
Once removed push the wood up and away.when finished,push wood back in place and put the nials back.not in the same holes though.

amodoko 10-14-2012 04:29 AM

Hey, that's a great idea! I will definitely try that out as soon as I get the chance:)

beenthere 10-14-2012 04:59 AM

Put a piece of sheet metal between the pipe and 2X4 and solder the joint. Or go out and buy a soldering pad.

http://www.emtechinc.net/specpdf/PlumbersPal.pdf

Gary in WA 10-14-2012 07:08 PM

If those are engineered I-joists, don't nail (10-16d) through the bottom/top chords as pictured. Toenail (with 8d) any blocking so as not to separate or split the glued lamination of I-joist. The blocking should actually be nailed through the web OSB. Add another above it before you cut and offset keeping the strength. Years ago, I had a field I-joist rep tell us that before and all the literature shows same.

Gary

amodoko 10-14-2012 08:55 PM

GBR, thanks so much, adding more support before removing the wood block is such a basic idea but I hadn't even though of it. I will definitely do that. And the other suggestions will be noted as well. Thanks again, much appreciated


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