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Old 09-15-2011, 09:07 PM   #1
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: SE and NE PA
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Calling any chimney experts

I've been painting my 1950's rancher since I got layed off and have come to the chimney side of the house. The chimney was painted prior but was peeling and such, so I powerwashed it back down to the bare block. I'd like to improve it's look a bit more than just patching cracks and painting again. I'd like to try stucco but I am concerned about getting a good job at the transition point from the block to the siding. I don't know if this chimney build was typical for the time but the block chimney was built outside of the asbestos fibered siding and appears to have had the gaps filled with sand mix. Over the years this has cracked and the powerwashing blasted a lot of it out such that there are 1-2 in gaps. What would be the best way to fill these gaps for a good stucco job with a durable transition point. We have lived in the house for 15 years and there is no movement in the chimney so it must be well anchored to the house. The link below is to some pictures on photobucket. Thanks

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Old 09-15-2011, 10:34 PM   #2
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: South Texas
Posts: 162

Calling any chimney experts

While I'm far from a chimney expert, we always use Thoroseal on that type of masonry product to seal it and fill the pores of the block. Makes for a great surface to paint to the color of your choice. It does not yield a slick surface but a textured one. Here's the website if you think this product will work for you.


In regards to the space/voids, 2" is more than you'll want to caulk. Might consider taking the asbestos siding down along side of it and running a 1x 6 trim down it and then reinstalling the siding. But it certainly appears to be asbestos siding in the pics so wear protective gear.

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Old 09-16-2011, 06:39 AM   #3
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: SE and NE PA
Posts: 24

Calling any chimney experts


Thanks for the info. I like the trim idea except that removing some of the siding will require cutting the asbestos where individual shingles go behind the block, which I'd prefer not to do. Does the Thoroseal hide the grout lines and crack repairs pretty well? Thanks again!
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