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Old 06-18-2013, 08:15 PM   #16
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cabinet walls & floor


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Originally Posted by Pittsville View Post
If I understand correctly, the studs are not plumb and some are out of plane..?

Can you rip some 2x stock at an angle and fasten these pieces to your studs to make them plumb and coplanar? Pulling a string line tight across the studs will help in identifying what adjustments need to be made and where.
yes

yes, i can. but that seems very tedious and time consuming.

sounds to me that sistering 2x4's and niailing them straight would not only be faster and easier. but it would also and strength to the wall. but maybe i am not seeing something here.

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Old 06-18-2013, 08:20 PM   #17
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I have seen times the wall was really out and the cabinets didn't go to the ceiling or where I could hold the cabinets down from the ceiling at least one inch, I would use the french cleat method of hanging the cabinets. You can get the cleat straight and out as far as you need to. If going wall to wall you could connect the cabinets together on the floor and with some help lift them into place as one piece.
my top cabinets are going to be about 9" from the ceiling and open top.
wouldn't the cleats hold the cabinet out from the wall ?

and. if all you did was make the cleats and cabinets straight/plumb. wouldn't the wall not being plumb cause problems with tile etc ?
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Old 06-18-2013, 08:42 PM   #18
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my top cabinets are going to be about 9" from the ceiling and open top.
wouldn't the cleats hold the cabinet out from the wall ?

and. if all you did was make the cleats and cabinets straight/plumb. wouldn't the wall not being plumb cause problems with tile etc ?
Yes but you can furr out the top and bottom to be plumb and the back splash will take up the slack.
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Old 06-18-2013, 09:33 PM   #19
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Good Picture. As far as blocking goes you could easily cut out the vertical 1 x furring and let in a 1 x 6 or 1 x 8 on which to hang the cabinets. I would get the wall as plumb and on plane as possible.

As far as the floor goes, the rule of thumb with cabinets is to always find the highest point on the floor, and level off the top of that base cabinet. The top of All other base units are then set level with that first high cabinet through the use of shims. I had the same situation with my first home built in 1920, and I sistered 2 x 6's to the existing studs and got my walls on plane by running masons cord top and bottom after installing end studs plumb. You then fill in with the remaining stud and blocking. This is really the first step, You run your plumbing, electric and insulate after this is done.

Maybe others did not want to make you feel bad because you already insulated, and so they did not multi-post.
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Old 06-19-2013, 08:43 PM   #20
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i have not done ANYTHING to that room. i know making the walls "right" is the first step, that is the reason for this thread. i want as few issues with this room as possible.
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Old 06-19-2013, 09:00 PM   #21
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i have not done ANYTHING to that room. i know making the walls "right" is the first step, that is the reason for this thread. i want as few issues with this room as possible.
Oh. OK you are good to go then. Good Luck. I dont see any reason you cannot sister 2 x 6's and dado them to let in blocking on which to mount the cabinets. Need more Insulation, go to 2 x 8's Frankly you don't need too much insulation in the kitchen, IMO.
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Old 06-19-2013, 09:11 PM   #22
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2x6 would be to much. i am now thinking = sister 2x4's (crown in or out ?). mark for my 1x6, cut the ends with saw. then chisel out the rest ? a little tedious, but i could live with that.
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Old 06-19-2013, 09:20 PM   #23
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here is the wall in question.


Last edited by Fix'n it; 06-20-2013 at 09:32 PM.
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