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Fix'n it 06-15-2013 10:05 AM

cabinet walls & floor
 
i am asking for ideas/ways to flat, square, plumb, the walls & floor that my cabinets will be on. the walls will be out 1" from what they are now, to make room for more insulation.

i am thinking, sistering 2x4's. and doing it with those.

i want to make it easier to do a good job installing the new cabinets.

thanx

joecaption 06-15-2013 10:28 AM

Just how bad are they out?
For the walls a simple brick string pulled tight makes for an easy check to see if there all close to being flat.
Depending on the big over all picture on how far and in what directions the floors are out would decide the best way to fix it.

one cut 06-16-2013 12:33 AM

You will have no problem installing your new cabinets unless there are major problems with your walls and floors. That is why they send oversize end panels and toe kicks with the cabinets.

Fix'n it 06-16-2013 09:21 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by joecaption (Post 1201536)
Just how bad are they out?

For the walls a simple brick string pulled tight makes for an easy check to see if there all close to being flat.

Depending on the big over all picture on how far and in what directions the floors are out would decide the best way to fix it.


just a quick check. it looks like 1 wall is up to 1" out at the top. all studs differ.

thanx for the string tip.

i have yet to check the floor.

princelake 06-16-2013 09:31 AM

if the walls are opened up add blocking so you dont have to look for studs.

Fix'n it 06-16-2013 09:43 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by princelake (Post 1202007)
if the walls are opened up add blocking so you dont have to look for studs.

sounds like a good idea. can you give some examples ?

Pittsville 06-16-2013 11:37 AM

1 Attachment(s)
See photo.

princelake 06-16-2013 01:43 PM

perfect example pitts!

Fix'n it 06-16-2013 08:43 PM

i googled after, and saw that.

do you think a single 1 piece 1x8 nailed to the stud would be enough ? a 2(1 1/2)x8 would be too thick.

oh'mike 06-16-2013 09:19 PM

Place the blocking so that the screws for the upper cabinets (top and bottom) will hit the blocking--the exact location will depend on the height of your cabinets,

Don't forget wiring for under cabinet lighting,if you will be installing it.

Pittsville 06-16-2013 09:31 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Fix'n it (Post 1202323)
i googled after, and saw that.

do you think a single 1 piece 1x8 nailed to the stud would be enough ? a 2(1 1/2)x8 would be too thick.

Just curious, but why would a 2x8 be too thick?

Fix'n it 06-16-2013 09:58 PM

see pic. i am using 3 1/2" roxul, and 1" xps, in my walls. so i fured out 1" to fit it all. if i put a 2x8, the 1 1/2" thickness would be to much. if i use a 1x8(3/4") i could use a spacer behind it to get the 1".

Fix'n it 06-17-2013 10:00 PM

so, no more help for Fix ?

the wall is about 1" out at the top.
the floor, idk yet. i don't have a long straight board to use. but, lets say it is less than 1/2", and is somewhat wavy.

Pittsville 06-18-2013 01:06 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Fix'n it
so, no more help for Fix ?

the wall is about 1" out at the top.
the floor, idk yet. i don't have a long straight board to use. but, lets say it is less than 1/2", and is somewhat wavy.

If I understand correctly, the studs are not plumb and some are out of plane..? Can you rip some 2x stock at an angle and fasten these pieces to your studs to make them plumb and coplanar? Pulling a string line tight across the studs will help in identifying what adjustments need to be made and where.

BigJim 06-18-2013 05:45 AM

I have seen times the wall was really out and the cabinets didn't go to the ceiling or where I could hold the cabinets down from the ceiling at least one inch, I would use the french cleat method of hanging the cabinets. You can get the cleat straight and out as far as you need to. If going wall to wall you could connect the cabinets together on the floor and with some help lift them into place as one piece.

On the floor, at times, I built the base or kick separate from the boxes, place the kick in place, shim as needed to get straight and level. I made sure there was blocking behind the top of the base cabinets to fasten the base cabinets to when I could.


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