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Clutchcargo 03-30-2008 08:43 AM

Building short section of wall to support new beam.
63 Attachment(s)
I'm removing a section of bearing wall and adding a 9.5" lvl beam to span the new opening. One end starts at the exterior wall so that won't be a problem. I need to figure out how to marry the other end in with the existing structure.
To tuck the new beam into the ceiling, my plan is to cut out the second floor plate that the joists rest on, cut the joists short and then use hangers to attach the joists to the new beam. Since the joists are 2x8s the beam will still protrude a bit, but it won't be that objectionable.

The way this house was originally built was to run the bearing studs directly from the top plate to the beam in the basement.
The bearing wall/post that I plan to build for the end, in the pictures, will only be about 8" long. For the toe plate, I've added blocking, made out of scrap LVL, on the main beam in the basement and will add the toe plate attached directly to the blocking for the new wall.
For the wall itself, are triple 2x4's adequate for a bearing post?
How can I tie in the new LVL beam to the old remaining wall/joists?

The pictures in order are:
Second floor, looking at the floor and joists that I'll be hanging on the new beam.
First floor looking up to the joists. The rightmost joist is the first or last joist that will be hanged from the new beam.
First floor looking looking down. You can see the blocking that I added which is on the main carrying beam.

As always, thanks for any ideas or corrections if I'm going at this completely wrong.

Clutchcargo 03-31-2008 09:41 AM

63 Attachment(s)
No nothing?
Alright, here's what I'm going to do.
1. If you look at the last pic, I'm going to cut the bottom of the studs and add a 2x4 toe plate beneath them.
2. I'm going to sister another 2x4 to the existing stud on the left running to the double top plate (2nd photo).
3. Cut the joists from above (pic 1) to accomodate the new beam.
4. Cut the top plate next to the new sistered stud (from #2 above & pic 2)
5. Remove old wall. (Temporary support walls are already built).
6. Add a new post made of 3 2x4s for bearing load of the beam and either lag screw or bolt this to the sistered studs.
7. Notch the end of the lvl beam so that the overhang from the beam sits on top of the top plate of the old structure (just to add blocking).
8. Figure out a way to strap the old wall to the new.

Clutchcargo 04-07-2008 03:43 PM

63 Attachment(s)
Alright, one last try.
Here's a pic of my plan. It's obviously not to scale but I think it gets the idea across. Everything to the right of the red studs are existing and the joists are also current.
Everything that I've read, shows more current construction methods of building on top of the subfloor with blocking beneath for support. This is an old house where the wall studs are built up from the plate (2nd floor) or the beam (1st floor). I'm adding blocking between the joists and adding a toe plate for the wall. Does that sound the correct way to do this?

ncgrogan 04-10-2008 08:57 PM

Just dont forget your going from a floor load distributed evenly along a wall to having to point loads on either side of the beam. You need to make sure you pick up that point load in some form and carry it all the way to the foundation. From the picture you drew it looks like the LVL end will not line up the the column in the basement. Also we never use less than 2 plies for any beam. Its just more stable that way. Whats the length of the beam? and span of floor load its piccking up?

Clutchcargo 04-13-2008 09:00 PM

63 Attachment(s)
Thanks ncgrogan.
Your right, I'm planning on putting a point load an inch or two to the left side of the post on the basement beam. With this small of an offset on such a substantial beam (6x8 actual), I didn't calculate the deflection and load of the basement beam.
The total length of the beam is 12' and the span has now shortened to 7' because of a change in the design of the staircase.
The beam is made up of a double 1.75"x9.5" microlam. I would have rather have used a single 3.5" but can't find one in stock anywhere.

pavola 04-13-2008 09:30 PM

Clutchcargo, your drawing looks good....are your jack studs and blocking directly above the beam? I might add that the toe plate you're adding also acts as a fire stop, so add the 2x4 blocks between all the studs that are missing them. (that's why those old house burned so fast, fires started in the basement reached the roof area quickly. Also check all the perimeter joists (bonds) to see if they're fastened to the studs properly as I suspect the exterior wall studs also are seated on the foundation sill plates and then the bonds nailed to them. Old houses are great, eh? Good luck.

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