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-   -   Building a shed with a wood floor (http://www.diychatroom.com/f19/building-shed-wood-floor-157029/)

directvman 09-17-2012 12:17 AM

Building a shed with a wood floor
 
I plan on building a 16x20 storage shed in the near future. My question is that I have a 3/4 ton truck that I am also wanting to rebuild in the future and want to know if the 2x6 floor and 3/4 plywood will hold the truck up (wood floor so I can move the shed someday) more than likely would never put it in the shed but if it would hold the trucks weight I would want to put big enough doors on the shed to do so if not I won't bother

mae-ling 09-17-2012 12:29 AM

Only if they are supported underneath often.

allthumbsdiy 09-17-2012 12:51 AM

I don't know but can an average sized forklift move a 16x20 shed?

Don't know where you live but you might need to pour a concrete foundation for shed that size

GBrackins 09-17-2012 11:20 AM

as mae-ling brought up, what is supporting the floor from below?

obviously if you are planning on building the shed so that it can be moved it will probably be on skids (each side) so I doubt your floor would be at ground level as it would get caught up on the ground when trying to move it. Figure if the skids are on the side (20' length) then you floor joists would run the 16' dimension.

just assuming a 40 psf live load and a 10 psf dead load using pressure treated southern pine 2x6x16'@16" o.c. you would have a deflection of over 3-inches (code requirement would be 16'x12" per ft/360 = 0.53"). You have 3" of deflection, code requires no more than 1/2", not good. For these live and dead loads you'd be looking more at 2x12@16" o.c. or even 12" o.c. Live load depends on what you'll be storing in the shed. The actual load per square foot may be more, may be less. 40 psf is the code required live load for living areas in a home.

Now lets look at your truck. I'm going to keep things simple for this example.

An average 1/2-ton pickup weighs around 5,000 lbs (may be more depending on make/model). if we use equal distribution to keep it simple (tends to more weight in the front) you have each tire supporting 1250 lbs. With an average tire contact patch of 36 sq.in. (1250lbs/36sqin.) that equates to 35 psi (which should be equal to your tire pressure, more or less).

a square foot has 144 square inches. so 50 psf design load/144 sqin = 0.35 psi.

Let's review ....

Your floor with 50 psf load would have 3" of deflection which equals approximately 0.35 psi.
Your truck load is 35 psi which is approximately 100 times the load per square inch

don't think it would work ...... I know this is an over simplification, but you get the point

Typically you would need a building permit to construct a shed of those dimensions. I don't know where you are, so I don't know your codes. A quick call to your building department will let you know if you need a permit and what codes it must be built to. Normally there is a requirement to anchor the structure to a foundation. May be different in your area.

You may be able to design your moveable shed, but I'd place a concrete slab if I was planning on parking my truck inside.

Just my humble thoughts ..... Good luck!

directvman 09-17-2012 02:20 PM

Thank you for your "over simplification". Now I won't bother with doors big enough to accommodate the truck. BTW I live out in the sticks we don't have building codes here.

GBrackins 09-17-2012 03:17 PM

wood don't know if you have codes or not, it still must behave according to its physical properties .....

just didn't want you planning on something and it nothing working out. hate seeing people spend money needlessly

ever consider maybe two smaller sheds, maybe 10x16? easier to move, just a thought ...... Good luck!

oodssoo 09-17-2012 04:02 PM

What I suggest here is the following:

NO! A 2x6 is not a strong option even if you install them in a 12" OC configuration. You are better off to go with a 2x10 joists system with a 12" OC configuration.
Secondly, building a shed this size, moving it will be a big job and will also have associated cost. The likelihood of the shed staying in this same spot for next 3 decades, IMO, is high.

SO! Build with 2x10 joist in 12" OC configuration on a plot of land that has a solid foundation, and plan to NOT EVER MOVE THE SHED.

Ps. You might also consider pouring concrete, if you plan to pull any type of vehicles into your building.

Good luck!

directvman 09-17-2012 04:25 PM

I can move it myself that's not the problem I'm going to be moving about a mile down the road in the next 3 years but I need the shed now to clear out a room we have used for storage. I'm going to pour 16 piers with quick crete then I'm going to put the building on 4 20' oak skids. As for moving the shed, my backhoe and 20' gooseneck should do the job. I know a person should get a permit to move something that size but the chances of a D.O.T coming down the gravel road were I live is pretty slim... Like I said I live in the sticks we kinda make our own rules out here but still can't get away from the law of physics.

directvman 09-17-2012 04:34 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by GBrackins
wood don't know if you have codes or not, it still must behave according to its physical properties .....

just didn't want you planning on something and it nothing working out. hate seeing people spend money needlessly

ever consider maybe two smaller sheds, maybe 10x16? easier to move, just a thought ...... Good luck!

I did think about making the shed into a double wide to make it easier to move... May still do that... I did buy all the lumber for the floor today so I'm excited about getting started. The only reason I even considered being able to put my truck in it was I had seen a guy demo the upper floor of a house one time and he used a skid loader to clear the mess off the subfloor. The floor did buckle a little but the subfloor was built on TGI floor joist.. He was a little more ballzy than me I suppose

GBrackins 09-17-2012 06:44 PM

I have to ask, not trying to give you a hard time .....

what did you buy for the floor? I do understand about living in the boonies without much rules or control, at one time my nearest neighbor was 2-1/2 miles away :thumbup:

directvman 09-17-2012 07:03 PM

I went with 2x6 joists ( not planning on putting the truck in it ;) anymore) I'm going to triple out my rim joist on the load bearing sides 3/4 advantech plywood for the floor. Haven't got my oak skids yet or poured my piers. I built one many years ago that was a 12x8 on 2x4 joists and it lasted all the way up until it burnt. I'm not a carpenter or framer but 2x6 joist on 16 oc should be good enough, I hope. I bought joist hangers and plan on putting every other one upside down so when I move it the floor doesn't try and push up.
I think for my foundation I'm going to end up digging a footing with the backhoe and just having a concrete truck come to pour 4 two foot rows to set it on

directvman 09-17-2012 07:07 PM

Going to put a gambrel roof on it to have a small loft for storage also. If I'm thinking right it should be an 8x20 loft

GBrackins 09-17-2012 09:04 PM

just a thought ..... what if you found an old mobile home frame/trailer and built your shed on it? would make it easier to move, and the steel frame would support more weight .....

directvman 09-17-2012 09:11 PM

Sounds like a good idea and I know ware 2 of them are. I suppose if I cut them just rite I would be able to jack it up when I was ready and put the axels and tung back under it to move it. Only downfall is the added hight. Mobile homes are mostly 16' wide anyway

joecaption 09-17-2012 09:22 PM

I bought a 30' constrution trailer with an office in the front. Roll up door on the back, 100 amp service with a power pole, Heat and A/C, outlet and lights in the front and back areas for $800.00 on Ebay.


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