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Old 12-12-2011, 09:47 AM   #16
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Last elevator I was involved with---after the shaft was built----machine and install was $25,000

Plus the electrical home run---

That was a plain Jane unit with simple steel doors---two floors--not the three you need---


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Old 12-16-2011, 09:12 AM   #17
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I kind of figured they might run about $10K to $15K. I'm wating to hear back from some of the outfits though.

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Old 12-16-2011, 09:15 AM   #18
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That was the first elevator for me---it was a big unit for a prone invalid with an attendant.
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Old 03-01-2012, 02:25 PM   #19
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Home Elevator Information Course

There is a free online course available through AEC Daily, which has lots of information regarding home elevators. The link to the course is below.
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Old 03-01-2012, 05:08 PM   #20
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You Need to contact these guys and hire a couple to do the work.

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Old 03-01-2012, 07:34 PM   #21
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I'm planning for a small elevator in my home, but not for immediate install. Here's what I found out to help guide me in the design process.

- As already noted a basic unit is about $25,000.
- A 5' x5' room with one or two walls being load bearing can accommodate an elevator. A larger room will, obviously, allow for a larger elevator.
- Right now I'm planning on using the 5x5 room as a pantry on the main floor and a closet on the 2nd. On the main the room adjacent to it has a wall closet that abuts the 5x5 room, meaning that I can sacrifice some space in the closet if I need to exceed the 5'x5' interior dimensions.

What I'm still trying to find out is how to have the floor framed such that a future elevator installation will create the least amount of floor reframing. Is it possible to frame the floor with openings, like one would a staircase, and then fill in the hole with framing using joist hangers? This way, when the time comes it's simply a matter of removing the 5' joists and the hangers and the shaft is already integrated into the surrounding floor.
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Old 03-01-2012, 08:18 PM   #22
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You will need to integrate the shaft walls with the structure of the other house walls.
Then determine which wall will be the one that holds the lift system. That wall will have to be plumb and straight, it will also have 2 x 10 on the flat at the proper separation.
The foundation for the shaft will have to be integrated to the regular foundation and about 16-24" deeper than the surrounding foundation to allow for room for the hydraulics and or mechanicals.
You will also need a space next to the shaft for the electrical panel, mechanicals and lines to feed the elevator itself.
It's a lot to consider.

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Old 03-02-2012, 07:08 PM   #23
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I had a Schumacher residential elevator installed in 2000. As posters have said, the first question the architect asked was which brand of elevator: everything depended on that. He had suggestions, but we chose the unit. Ours has a hydraulic lift, many are now cabled (quieter.) We created a shaft that filled in what was a inside corner of the existing house. The foundation and adjoining mechanical room required a certain footprint. A cabled unit wouldn't need the hydraulic tank, for instance. I'd suggest find an elevator company that can be expected to be in business for a long time, and work with architect & structural engineer to create the basics. Fire blocking was essential, as noted. As an example, the general contractor caught the need to have a sump pit & pump in the bottom of the shaft, and he was right. We would have had some water issues without it. It was pretty complex, and not trouble free at first.
It's been more than 10 years in use every day and a huge help.
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Old 03-02-2012, 09:10 PM   #24
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We installed a residential elevator a couple of years ago after I became handicapped. It has three stations, garage, first floor and the second floor with two doors 90°apart on two adjacent sides. Once you select the manufacturer and the local representative who will install it they will provide all the required drawings and specifications. Most states limit the overall square footage of a residential elevator to about 15 square feet and a load capacity of about 1200 pounds. Most we looked at require 220V power. At least here in Kentucky they only do one inspection for the initial acceptance in them they don't worry about any follow-up inspections. The permitting process was actually quite simple as was the installation. Many of the new units do not require a pit as the cable mechanism can be at the top in the attic.
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Old 07-02-2012, 06:36 PM   #25
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Elevator Information


hi Gregg, we talked last week. I own Country Home Elevator. http://www, I am not sure how old this Post is, but If I did not get all your questions answered, please let me know. I will be glad to assist in your planning needs.

You may reach me at 866-638-5438 anytime.

I hope to be of assistance.

Craig Jones CET-S Owner
Country Home Elevator


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