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Building a 2nd shed adjacent to existing...

17K views 60 replies 7 participants last post by  iThinman 
#1 · (Edited)
This time I am working on trying to figure out how to build a new shed adjacent to my existing and tie to two together. My building experience consists of adding a porch to my existing (purchased) shed and also a cool planter box.

I am basically at square one. Existing shed is an 8x14 tuff shed with standard 16 oc framing. I want to build a 12x16 workshop next to it and preferably connect them. I will be connecting the new 16' wall to the existing 8' wall.

The new pad is poured, cured and ready for anchor bolts. Three of the walls are going to be straight forward and one wall...not so much, along with the roof I'm sure.

Here is a picture of the space:



Rather then poorly communicate the multiple likely terrible ideas that are floating in the space between my ears, I'm hoping for some pointers/direction/ideas... anything to get me going in the right direction on this.

I'm willing to remove the 8' wall on the existing shed if that is the right way to go, but a 6' opening would work just fine also if that is a better way to go.

Thanks!
 
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#4 · (Edited)
This looks like a fun project.

The simplest way to frame the roof for the new shed is probably a trussed gable lengthwise, counter to the other gable, and then tie them together with stick framing. Is the roof of the existing shed a ridge board and ceiling joists, or did they use trusses?

You would remove the rake, but leave the sheathing to span to the framing of the new roof. Build a flush dormer on the new shed. (That's the complicated part.) The tie-in depends on the method of construction (trussed, or stick). If the roof has trusses, you don't need to do much at all. If not, a small king post truss on each, framed flush, could be your tie-in.

A small wall opening is easy, frame it between existing studs, with a header on jack studs (simplest method). It carries the studs that you had to cut to install the header (cripples). Removing the entire wall isn't that much harder, since you have to tie the roofs together anyway.

More info on the roof of the exising shed would help.

That's the simplest method, off the top of my head.

Edit: How do you plan to set the anchors, and what are the requirements in CA?

And one more thing, plan for your anchors at the inside of the "L", or you might end up with them in the doorway or a plate where you don't want one.
 
#6 ·
Thanks & thanks! I understood a lot of that and will look up some terms I didn't ;)

More info on the roof of the exising shed would help.
Here is a shot from the inside of the existing shed, trusses I believe? :)



Edit: How do you plan to set the anchors, and what are the requirements in CA?
not 100% what the requirements are, but I am going to use 2x6 PT sill plates with 1/2" anchor bolts every other stud, set 3" deep & 2 3/4" from edge along with the square simpson baseplates.

 
#5 ·
No problem....
Inspect the existing shed you wish to attach to. Is the shed built good, if so mimic it as much as possible.
Take the siding, fascia, and two corners off the existing shed where the two sheds will be joined.
At the back in picture begin building your walls mimicking the existing, bring the walls all the way around to attach to the the existing wall where the metal roof is. It is at this corner you would install a header stretching across to the long wall. Anticipating future ideas I would make the header from three 2x6's with 1/2" plywood sandwiched between. I would mimic this header for the opening where the two sheds intersect.

I would then bring existing roof line straight out to the long wall.
The rest of the roofline would intersect to form a TEE.
If this sounds good, we can then worry about the other details.

NOTE: You will have a problem with drainage. Now would be the time to deal with that.
At the long wall/fence, either put in a swale leading to the front of picture or a drainage system. In fact I would bring the back wall and long wall drainage to the front.
 
#7 ·
oh, also, my neighbor is trying to talk me out of removing or opening the existing 8' wall to begin with. Says I am not going to like the noise and dust from the other side, blah blah blah ;) but his main point was that I could always open it up later.

I tend to agree with that so I think the way I would lean is the "small wall opening is easy" route since I could really do that at any point and 'try before I buy' without the opening first.

Here is another couple shots from the other side. I'm going to do a 6' barn or rollup door on the front side and was thinking of just putting a 30" door on the side for an entrance to begin with off the end of the porch:



 
#9 ·
roof sheathing is 1/2" osb w/radiant barrier. it has no markings, but when i built the porch, this was similar at lowes:



...stuff actually makes no sense to me. They (tuffshed) used it on the walls also and before I built the porch and the sun beat down on the wall, lol, you couldn't even touch the stuff it was so hot. Just seems to transfer the heat from outside to inside. :/
 
#10 ·
more pics for reference:










Taking the approached described, is my bottom sill in the correct spot, or do I need to remove the siding and flush it up? I'd like to start marking my studs on the 3 easy walls so I can start drilling the anchor holes. I leave the other wall for later.

Also, when it comes time, "remove the rake, but leave the sheathing to span to the framing of the new roof", will that mean removing that entire end box, including flashing, but leaving the roof sheathing and shingles alone?

Thanks for all the help!!
 
#11 ·
is my bottom sill in the correct spot, or do I need to remove the siding and flush it up? I'd like to start marking my studs on the 3 easy walls so I can start drilling the anchor holes. I leave the other wall for later.

Also, when it comes time, "remove the rake, but leave the sheathing to span to the framing of the new roof", will that mean removing that entire end box, including flashing, but leaving the roof sheathing and shingles alone?

You'll find that in order to get everything to line up, you'll need to remove the siding to expose the structure. Once you can see it, you'll know where to place your own. When sheathing is placed on your new framing, you want it to sit flush to the old sheathing. The structure underneath (sill plates, studs, trusses) aligns.

I wouldn't worry about the roof at this point, concentrate on the siding and sill plates. The corner boards will come off, and the window trim, then take the siding off to that seam at the top of wall--to start.

Eventually, you can remove fascia, soffit, and the short framing that forms the eave. It might just be blocking. The sheathing and shingles remain. (You'll need to tuck your new shingles under the edge of the old, possibly cutting the fasteners to do that.)

How high is the top of wall?
 
#14 · (Edited)
The worse mistake you can make is trying to take this one step at a time. Draw out a plan of action of what is going to be done and in what steps.
As I said before, take care of the drainage first, you won't be able to get to it with the wall there.
Ifs, and butts are just that, make a decision or you will have to scab it down the line..

Anchor bolts 6" from corners and joints. Should be three on the back wall, and four on the long wall.


Forgot... I would use an adhesive between the concrete and bottom plate.
 
#16 ·
Thanks Ron. Totally agree with the plan idea, but I've never drawn up plans before and this does all seem pretty straight forward. Drainage in this spot is actually excellent, it is the high spot of my lot and everything drains away from this location on all sides.

I had a couple more bolts planned but my rethink the need for them. lol, I think I ended up laying out 8 along the back 16' wall (2x 8' sills, 4 bolts each), but will probably drop that to 3 each 8' section.

Excellent idea on the construction adhesive. I have some 2-step epoxy coming for the pad that I will be applying before bolting anything down, so I'll make sure to grab some adhesive also.
 
#17 ·
As the younger generation would say, " My Bad. "

Let me try this again....
1. Walk over to your neighbors fence.
2. Put your back against the fence so your facing the future wall of your shed.

Will you....
1. Have room to grade between the new wall and fence.?
2. Will you have room to install the sheathing/siding.?

Me thinks your going to need a plan of action.....
 
#18 ·
:) yeah, that side fence is going to be tight. I'll side the wall before raising it though and do whatever else I can to it in advance. Probably going to need to stand on the fence for trim and stuff though.



but....

you did get me. :) I was 6 1/2" long on my 12' sides. hadn't squared up the garbage ends yet and had the back sill 'ontop' instead of inside as I had originally intended, so that was the other 5 1/2".

just cleaned it all up and layed them back out to re-mark stud & anchor locations.

:) Thanks!
 
#19 · (Edited)
Here is a picture of the space:

One thing that I'm wondering about. When you remove (or cut a large opening in) the existing shed's gable end wall, you will be losing structural integrity to horizontal forces without the gable end sheathing.

Do you plan to have an opening in the new shed's wall between the brown wall and the existing shed's front wall? If so, then the only resistance to horizontal forces will be the approximate 4 feet of wall on the new shed that goes from the lower right corner of the slab to the brown wall. Seems to me that would not be enough resistance to horizontal forces in high winds, especially if you put a window in that short span of wall.

HRG
 
#23 · (Edited)
If he builds it with a continuous top plate on the long axis of the new building spanning as a header across the opening on the old, he will have plenty of lateral resistance. The double top plate on the old remains, with a king post truss. The new building gets a matching king post-trussed dormer. The trusses and plates are lagged together as are corner studs. The old building will be braced in the x direction by the gable end, and in the y-direction by the long axis of the new building. The wall junction on the gable side should share common sheathing. (The OP should of course be pulling a permit.)
 
#20 · (Edited)
good timing, I actually just cut that piece. the length of that wall will be 54" brown wall to corner, and then 36" to the large 6' opening.

I cannot speak to the structural integrity (i can barely verify my own) ;) but it seems like it would be pretty solid with 2 anchors in each piece and the brown wall (which is rock solid) acting almost as a permanent cross-brace.

But yes, I'd like a small 26-30" door there and then will decide later to open up 5-6' of the wall.




edit: forgot to mention that I will also be using double studs at each end of those smaller walls.
 
#21 ·
also worth noting is that while I was smart enough not to cut a 6' opening out of the 12' piece of PT i had laying there, instead using two 3' pieces of an 8'er....







....I did mark the 12' board first....then cut the 3' pieces and marked them. :whistling2:

:thumbup:
 
#22 ·
ok, sanity check...lost my train of thought on this for the minute...

Am I correct that I still need a sill and wall along the existing wall, so that I have a top plate for the new roof. And one this wall, I want to space the studs and anchors to account for and pre-build the opening I may eventually want?

and also that I should have cut off 2" along the entire bottom section of existing siding. :/

 
#27 ·
Am I correct that I still need a sill and wall along the existing wall, so that I have a top plate for the new roof. And one this wall, I want to space the studs and anchors to account for and pre-build the opening I may eventually want?
Is there a permit?

Ron has brought up a number of good points, including concerns about setbacks, and the need to have a plan for the entire job. Draw out the framing plan on a piece of paper. I've tried to explain how the layout could work, but my layout is different than yours. I would remove the sheathing at the gable--you want a door. It's your building, your choice. But that requires planning, too.
 
#24 ·
I hope you're at least using sill seal under that plate and you aren't planning on the siding sitting on top of the slab as your last picture makes it look like. You don't want water entering under the wall do you?
 
#28 ·
I probably don't understand the terminology enough to get the difference. I want to tie to the existing shed however recommended. If that means no opening, that is fine. Small 24" door is also negotiable. But I do need one or the other.


No permit. It is only about 50 sq' over the requirement threshold, so I was planning on going black ops rogue on this mission.


But, I am not opposed to obtaining a permit. The only issue is the plans. I have no idea how to draw plans and would struggle with a basic napkin drawing.

If someone following along with the skills would like to give the drawings a shot, I would be more than happy to show my appreciation in the form of a donation to the 501.c of their choosing though.
 
#29 ·
You don't want to tie your new wall into the porch of the existing shed. Run the wall down and tie into the corner of the shed.
Put a small header in and frame the new wall for a doorway to the porch.

Again, planning ahead is gold. You can't expect the existing shed/porch to last as long as the new one. Make it so the new shed can stand alone, and with little effort to enclose it in.

By taking the time to make the plans there's no surprises, changing what's done, or having to scab the next steps........

I will keep quit now....
 
#30 ·
Ahhh, got it. I understand the issue now.

If I account for the small door & desire to tie in to the proper location at the corner of the shed and try to deal with an opening on the existing shed wall, I would run out of room for properly secured sill plate between the door and opening.

No problem. I choose the small door over the large opening. It causes much less headache with my desk real estate which is currently occupying that wall anyway.

I don't want to remove the entire siding yet but will cut away the bottom 2" so I can properly fit the additional sill and get it ready.

All other holes are drilled and a few bolts are in. I pretty good about picking the hottest days of the year for these things. :/



lol, don't keep quiet.
 
#33 ·
...andddd lost again. :) I hope you know I really appreciate you trying to make me understand this, but it's just not sinking in without some sort of picture.

Not understanding how I would put the top plate on top of new and existing without removing the existing top plate and king post truss




I called an architect guy today and he's going stop by Wednesday...but i'm in the bay area and anyone I call for this type of thing is going to try and charge me LOL$$$ because we "all work at google for a million a year"...

:huh:
 
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