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Old 06-22-2012, 02:38 PM   #16
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Bridging ceiling joists


This will require a massive beam. I would abandon this idea. What you really need to have in order to have a 20' opening is a truss roof.

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Old 06-23-2012, 09:25 AM   #17
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This will require a massive beam. I would abandon this idea. What you really need to have in order to have a 20' opening is a truss roof.
What about a 13' opening? I would love to get rid of the hall closet but I guess it will have to stay.
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Old 06-23-2012, 10:29 AM   #18
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What about a 13' opening? I would love to get rid of the hall closet but I guess it will have to stay.
any beam would need a weight load transfer path downward to a support footing. are you planning to do the work yourself or hire out? also, in answer to another question. if you do not want the beam showing below ceiling height then a flush beam notched into the ceiling joists with joist hangers is the way to go. a beam above the joists with the joists hanging from it has all kinds of lateral support issues, you would need multiple support kickbacks to even consider it. Also, with a flush beam you would be able to leave the existing roof rafter 45 degree kickbacks in place to keep supporting the rafters, you might have to move them to do the work and then put them back though.

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Old 06-23-2012, 11:25 AM   #19
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What you really need to have in order to have a 20' opening is a truss roof.
That is the furthest thing from the truth! Since when do you have to have a truss roof to put a 20' opening in a house?
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Old 06-23-2012, 11:32 AM   #20
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How big of beam will be required under the ceiling joist lap for a twenty foot long opening?
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What about a 13' opening? I would love to get rid of the hall closet but I guess it will have to stay.
Look, do yourself a favor and higher an architect or engineer to size a beam for what you want. Anything can be done in a house. People on the internet CANNOT size beams for you. You NEED someone to look at your house. What you want to do is done every day, but you need a professional to tell you what you need. You DO NOT need a truss roof for a 20' opening in your house. Don't let false statements like that over the internet deter you from doing what you want.
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Old 06-23-2012, 11:40 AM   #21
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Bridging ceiling joists


Agree with Joe. What you are trying to do is easy. Really the only thing the beam would be carrying are ceiling joist, drywall, and maybe a couple of ceiling fans. Those kickers coming down from your 2x6 rafters really aren't supporting much of anything, and more then likely wasn't even drawn with that. You were just lucky to have a good framing foreman who thought the 2x6 rafters were a little undersized for snow loads and installed them. If the architect or possibly engineer would have called out a 2x8 or larger rafter those kickers would serve no purpose. What you are trying to accomplish can most definitely be done, but an engineer would have to calc the beam and the proper transfer footing in your slab/foundation or whatever your home is sitting on. Good luck!
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Old 06-24-2012, 09:04 AM   #22
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I did hire an engineer back when I started chatting on this site but they seam to have other customers that are more important. I am doing the work myself (and my boys) we have cut into the basement floor to add drainage and put in 24" square foundation piers 36" down from the floor under the supporting points of the beam/header with 8x8 posts to the first floor beam then solid blocked from that beam between the floor joists to carry the load down (this was done with the help of a building contractor). Now I don't care if the beam is exposed into the living area ceiling I just want to get it done. The contractor that helped is now busier than a cat covering with his own business concerns. I do want to thank you all for the help I have received and continue to get.
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Old 06-24-2012, 10:42 AM   #23
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I did hire an engineer back when I started chatting on this site but they seam to have other customers that are more important. I am doing the work myself (and my boys) we have cut into the basement floor to add drainage and put in 24" square foundation piers 36" down from the floor under the supporting points of the beam/header with 8x8 posts to the first floor beam then solid blocked from that beam between the floor joists to carry the load down (this was done with the help of a building contractor). Now I don't care if the beam is exposed into the living area ceiling I just want to get it done. The contractor that helped is now busier than a cat covering with his own business concerns. I do want to thank you all for the help I have received and continue to get.
Sully,

Without reading this whole thread you are getting permits and inspections for all this right?
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Old 06-24-2012, 10:52 AM   #24
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So really most of the work has been done and your just asking how big of a beam there needs to be. Next time just state that in your original post??????? You need a 7'' x 48'' x 20'5'' beam... Make that 2 of them... Steel. With smiley faces on it.. And a tongue.
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Old 06-27-2012, 04:38 PM   #25
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Sully,

Without reading this whole thread you are getting permits and inspections for all this right?
yes, only need county permit as no electrical work will be done.
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Old 06-27-2012, 05:48 PM   #26
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Bridging ceiling joists


What I'm saying is that if you want a 20' wide opening in a stick-built roof, it would be much easier to just have trusses up there. Let us know what you come up with.

For all the people asking for beam sizes, I can't recall one that came back telling us what was finally decided upon.

I can tell you that I spanned about 16' of upstairs floor with a beam below the joists. That beam was about 10" high and 8" wide, solid wood, species unknown. I salvaged it from the crawlspace below. It was bearing on an exterior wall down to the foundation wall and a stairwell wall down to the basement floor on the other end.

From there I went to another beam which I put in flush with the upstairs floor joists. It also rested on the stairwell wall and a saddle on another exterior wall (above a header believe it or not). I had the saddle fabricated. I can tell you that this beam was only 5 1/2" high, and I don't remember how wide. It must have spanned 12 or 14'. I know it must have been 5 1/2" high because my floor joists up there on the second floor were 2x6's and I wanted to match the existing floor. So I put in 2x6's 12" OC with solid blocking every 4' on a 12' span.

Both floors are very solid. Ended up putting down tilebacker on top of the 3/4" osb and tiling them.

I'm sure the beam sizes and my engineering will get a rise from the carpenters out there...
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Old 07-03-2012, 06:35 PM   #27
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Yes, I will let you know what size beam is used. I just hired another engineer and she will be out the middle of the month to check it over and I would have an answer sometime be fore August.

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