Bracing a 12'w x 8'h Rolling Wall
2 x 2's (Actually 1.5 x 1.5 inches) are useless for building this wall. The only thing they are good for is tomato stakes. They twist if you look at them crooked, they are nearly impossible to join together, unless you use metal flitch plates.
If you want a wall that has some chance of surviving, use Douglas Fir Minimum 2 x 4. through and Pilot drill and screw together with minimum no. 12 3 inch screws. Add angle cleats (Simpson
Stron tie or equal) to all inside corners. Fasten with No 8 MP screws. Apply liquid nails in joints before screwing. Install metal banding as X bracing on both sides, running from top left to bottom right and screw to studs at each intersection with Min no. 10 bugle head screws.
The base plates should be fabricated as a strongback with 2 x 6's minimum, with one leg outside the vertical wall, and screwed to the end stud. the braces should be at 45 degrees, and I would have the base project out from the wall half the height of the wall. (8 foot high wall, 4 foot projection to both sides. Put a caster on each end, attach as stated above.
Put four casters under the center line of the wall at 4 ft intervals. Use the right type of caster with a four hole base plate and screw to the bottom with #14 Hex washer head screws 1.5 inches long.
I dont understand the 3 plies of 1/4 inch at all, but I didnt get the 2 x 2's either. Once the wall is properly X braced, you could use a sheet of 1/2 inch (Nominal) Actually 15/32 the last time I checked, fir minimum BC Plywood. 4 ply minimum. Screw and glue with liquid nails. Screw 6 inches OC ends 12 inches OC intermediate with 1.5 inch MP screws.
Good luck, and use the 2x2 wall for tomato stakes, it wont hold up, or it will kill somebody, probably not the maker.
Last edited by jagans; 11-16-2012 at 11:30 AM.
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