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Old 06-22-2008, 05:14 PM   #16
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Board and Batten wood siding


oh yeah.. i should see what types of tools are availble for rent. i need a handsized jack hammer with extra wide spade bit.. if such a thing exists. knowing my luck with renoing this old house it will definately "come to that".

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Old 06-22-2008, 05:24 PM   #17
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Knucklez I would be very interested on seeing a photo of your type of stucco. In all my years of remolding I have never come across stucco applied to wood sheathing with no wire lath or backer. I would be interested on how this never failed over the years. BOB
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Old 06-22-2008, 06:05 PM   #18
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i can do that. but the picture won't be availble until august probably. i'm just in the project planning stages.

the sheathing is pine plank, each board is about 8" to 15" wide. the stucco is squished between the boards and is held in place like lathe & plaster (also with no mesh). this is just a guess because i have not removed any exterior vynle siding yet.. i just took a peak. i really need to investigate properly to say for sure.. again, in aug.

one project at a time.. remodeling the kitchen right now

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Old 06-22-2008, 06:07 PM   #19
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BOB.. quick question. i am going to wrap house with tyvek. no ridig foam.

how many rolls of tyvek tape do i need? rough guess..

its 2 story home, about 2000 sq ft. of siding.

thanks
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Old 06-22-2008, 09:04 PM   #20
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knuckelz
there is a lot to consider when taping, You going to turn the corner or are you stopping at every corner and taping. How many doors and windows, Plus your over laps. You see what I'm getting at. The roll is 2" wide and is 165' long. the rolls are 9' wide and 150' long. also are you going to use shorter rolls. you ll have to do the math on this one.
what ever you come up with just order one more you can always return it. Hope this helps. BOB.
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Old 06-22-2008, 09:47 PM   #21
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a broken wide truck spring run over the grinding wheel to make it sharp is a good tool too. Then weld a handle to it to your liking. The heavier the handle(like solid rod) the more force it has,the less heavy the less arm tiring,,, after a while. biggest problem is operator error gouging the good wood
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Old 06-23-2008, 09:48 AM   #22
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KNUCKELZ
you say the stucco is pushed into gaps in the sheathing??? I would Strongly advise installing a ridged foam insulation over the existing sheathing to bridge the gaps.
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Old 06-24-2008, 02:23 PM   #23
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May I ask a stupid question here??

What issues or BAD things are you having with the vinyl siding?? Around here the vinyl is the chossen way to go for no paint,no maintance exterior. MOST houses here that are painted NEEDS painting,,and I cant imagine painting a 2 to 2-1/2 story on a ladder when I am 75-80 years old??

Just wondering?? thx for any tips-d-
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Old 06-24-2008, 08:27 PM   #24
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i do not know for sure yet if there is a mesh or not. i won't know until aug.. then i'll scramble for a solution

vinyl siding doesn't last forever. and it needs to be pressure washed as maintenance which is not always easy on 2 story building. in my case, it is being replaced for two rasons
1) its too old.. cracking and falling off. i think it is 25 yrs at least.
2) it does not suit the style of the home.

vinyl siding is the 2nd worse siding you can get for astetics.. angle stone (fake stone veneer) is the worse. and those new homes that are half brick half vinyl is just weird. that's my opinion.

so.. i am left with a rehabilitation project. i choose board and batten because it matches the period style of the home, is relatively easy to install DIY (hopefully) and is affordable.

wood siding is guaranteed for 15 yrs for the paint. then guaranteed for ANOTHER 15 years if it gets a second coat at the end of the first warrenty. so yes.. eventually someone will have to paint it. and if this involves old people and ladders then i suggest that person save up to pay someone else to do it.

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Old 08-09-2008, 09:00 PM   #25
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wow.. "they don't build'm like they used to"...

under the vynle siding there was lath and plaster, complete with vertical strapping. and then i found the pine sheathing.

who ever heard of exterior lath and plaster? man. that must have been one heck of a job to put up!

to take it down was laborous, put a huge metal bar behind the lath and just pry it away from the house... while up on scaffolding.

had 6 people and only got half the house done today. unfortunatlly its supposed to rain tomorrow so.. project might drag out for a bit. a LOT of work preping a house for board and batton!

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Old 08-11-2008, 10:58 AM   #26
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Knucklez,

I am very much interested in your "B & B" project. The Mrs. & I are heading down the same path and we're in the learn and plan stage. Our project will be a less labor intensive than yours, though. (and thankfully )

We built our home 18 years ago and in the fevered pitch to get it done we settled for vinyl siding. Ack. I truly dislike vinyl siding, regardless how "maintenance free" it might be. The board and batten will finish our home proper.

In the meantime, ours is a ranch style built into a hillside with the one story front level with the high ground and the back two story including the full walk out basement on the low side. The front and sides should not be
difficult. The back will require a bit more work. As it's a fairly straight forward ranch design it should not be much trouble at all.

Please keep us informed and post photos when you can! I look forward to them.

Good luck!

Chap
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Old 08-11-2008, 10:30 PM   #27
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i'll try to post advice from a DIY'er as i learn it

i noticed (after taking down the vynel siding) that the old window trim is rounded at the top, rather than a standard box shape in conventional windows. how to do flashing on this?

along the bottom of each wall i run a horizontal "skirt" board, for estetic reasons. but this means it must be with drip edge flashing (bought premade from HD). ok, all well & good. .. but .. my walls (after siding, insulation, lath & plaster were removed) sit almost 3" recessed! so.. you need one MONSTER piece of flashing so the water runs off the skirt board and down to the ground. they don't sell it like that. so what we have decided to do is a double drip edge. drip edge the cement lip.. then add skirt board and drip edge the top of the skirt board (as normal).

also, look at your prefered nailing pattern. this is a very important decision based mostly on width of boards, but also how dry it is, how well it is sealed and what type of wood. now, count how many nails you need! your batton nails need to be longer.

goto manufacturer websites to learn more, someone who makes board & batton in YOUR REGION because they will be harvesting wood that grows locally.

finally, have your electrical meter disconnected while you do this work. you need a permit for this ($160 !!). local utility will do it though usually for free. the inspector only works on certain days and the utility needs TONNES of advance notice, so plan this out well because you will be without power while you work on the siding in that area!

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Old 08-18-2008, 09:17 PM   #28
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....sitting here groovin' to some Sgt. Peppers.....

A few questions re: board and batten ......

1) How are you handling the lumber as far as sealant and stain or primer and paint goes?

***
I've seen blue sheathed foam/styrofoam insulation panels @ Lowes about a 1/4 thick.

My thoughts here are ... I'll be using an under-layment of Tyvek and 3/4" furring strips for the B & B. There will be dead air space. I'll also be re-caulking the seams of the 4x8 sheets of original outer shell.

2) Would it be a problem or a concern to add (staple) these 1/4" insulation panels in between the furring strips?

***

The sides and front of the home is one story. The back however, is two stories.

Does using two courses of B & B, one lower and one upper make sense? I don't think I want the expense and difficulty of finding full length lumber to do the back.

3) Are there any caveats of running one lower vertical course, topping it with a horizontal header the height of the joist and then continuing with a 2nd and upper course of B & B? Of course the horizontal divider would have to flashed. Or I think it would have to be.....

Any thoughts? Appreciate your time.

Best to you!

Chap.
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Old 08-19-2008, 09:19 PM   #29
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sealing the wood and painting it is probably the most difficult to do right and ensure it will last many seasons.

i purchased my siding from a company that SPRAY coats the paint and guarantee's the finish for 15 years (and another 15yrs if you paint it after the 1st 15 year mark), and guarantee against wood rot for 50 yrs.

they treat each knot with some sort of hardener (it bends nails if you try to nail into it!!). they kiln dry for a year, select 16ft long boards. the back of each piece of wood has two routed groves, maybe 1/2" each, that runs along the length of the board to allow air movement. its special process.. well worth the money!

the blue styrofoam is particular case because your 3/4" strapping will no longer be suitable, you need a full 1" air gap if you use exterior foam insulation. i don't know why, that's just the BB siding rep said.

defentaly do NOT staple in between the furring strip! that would create a continuous surface. this means NO air gap between the BB siding and the sheating (or in your case insulation). that's bad. that means no rain screen. you must have an air gap.

you wouldn't believe the necessary man power / labour / hours to prep & install. wow.. i WAY underestimated this job! (no wonder the quotes were so high!)

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Old 08-19-2008, 09:21 PM   #30
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i ended up learning how to curve flashing drip edge above the windows.

you take the straight aluminium an use tin snips to cut slots in it so it will bend. then use exterior caulking to seal it up.

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