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Knucklez 04-17-2008 10:45 AM

Board and Batten wood siding
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hi all.. in a years time i plan on ripping down the old vynil siding and replacing with board & batten vertical wood siding. i have not done my proper homework yet i.e. i will eventually go to local library, scoured the web like crazy, and to some book stores.

but also, maybe there is someone on this message board that can provide some additional pro advice? so that i know how to tailor my specific situation to the stuff i will read in the books.

my situation..
my 90 yr. old house is two stories. sits on a stone foundation which is 4' above grade. the framing is all wood. against the exterior studs is horizontal pine boards, 1" thick, probably 8" wide and maybe 8' long. this is the "sheathing". on the wood is stucco which was probably the original exterior finish. some time in the past someone decided to put on vynil siding. from a quick inspection it looks like they did not strap the exterior, but just screwed in the siding. i think the stucco has cracked a lot because of the many screws.

so here are some questions that are buzz'n around in my head:
1) can anyone recommend a good book or website?
2) should the stucco come off? or can i just hammer through it?
3) should i add insulation foam board? the interior walls are insulated with blown in cellulose, no vapour barrier.
4) i plan on house wrapping.. which would be the last layer just before the board and batten right?
5) what are some good tips to avoid water penetration? seal BOTH sides and ends of the wood siding? or when two vertical boards are butt joined, maybe that cut should be on 45 deg. rather than two 90 degrees ?

anyway, thx in advance.

Termite 04-17-2008 01:02 PM

When you have horizontal butt joints, you absolutely need to flash them. Butting edges together without flashing is just asking for trouble.

Knucklez 05-07-2008 09:11 PM

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note to those that read this in the future.

google books is a great place to get info on board and batten.


skymaster 05-07-2008 09:59 PM

"Z" flashing on horizontals and yes 45 the batten strips so water runs AWAY from the joint. Look at the job and "think like a raindrop" really :} 05-08-2008 10:19 PM

when you install the board and batten siding I nail the right side let the left side float. install the next board about 1/8 to 1/4 gap. when the batten is applied nail to the left side of batten in to board and in the center bettween the two not in the left side of the first board installed, other wise when the board expands and contracts it will no split down the center. plus all the above that was stated from the other posts good luck.

Lansing 05-09-2008 04:50 AM

I see where your from in Canada :)...So go to the CMHC web site there and get more info on the steps you need to take...They have bookets and videos they sometimes loan out...

But you do need to remove that stucco down to the boards...See if any wood need replacing...I would use a 1" Blue SM insulation next , taping joints and if sealed right you will not need tyvec house wrap ? then start your battens as was talked about above...Flashing details will be important using this siding system as was stated here...

The tighter you make the house you will need watch your moisture levels and air quality issues inside the house...CMHC has info on that issue as well...

Good luck there...

Knucklez 05-14-2008 09:03 PM

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thanks for the tips.

i will be going to monegan lumber in peterborough in the near future to speak with them about wood purchase and to ask as many questions as i can (i'm righting them down as i think of them). i'll post the Q&A's here when i have them.

here is another book that i read which was good, and echoes many of the comments already made in this thread,
"Fine Homebuilding on Exterior Finishing" 1993. i got this book from the local library.

i like the blue SM exterior siding idea. for my application, i think since i am removing existing vynl siding - and the existing stucco under that - thus exposing the original horizontal 1" thick 8" wide pine board sheathing.. i will probably opt to use DOW product "Foam or Housewrap Over Non-Insulated Sheathing"

i imagine this is more expensive, and also adds problem of requiring your windows & doors & flashing to be built out. but even without the foam but with furring straps and 1" thick board & batten.. probably the windows & doors would have to be built out anyway don't you think?

another thing to learn.. how to extend window sill, flashing etc.

Lansing 05-14-2008 11:57 PM

A friend of mine does a lot of siding jobs and has many different types and width J trims, etc that he uses to build out the areas around windows and doors when he uses SM on the house before siding it...I'm sure you can talk to the people that sell the siding for tips on this...

One thing he does is use tyvec over the SM as his air barrer but also to let the vinyl siding slide easier as it expands and moves back and forth in the cold and heat...See it sometimes mades a sound/noise as it touches the SM it does this the tyvec wrap helps cut that sound out somehow...Well that's what he told me...if you were using vinyl siding it would be something to think about...

Best of luck on your project...

Knucklez 05-16-2008 08:33 PM

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ok.. i'm like 99% confident the old stucco will be coming off.

is there an easy way to do this? or is it going to be a pain in the a$$ :yes:


buletbob 05-18-2008 06:53 AM

Hello knucklez

I start at the top and work my way down digging a Flat bar through the stucco with a hammer, once you reveal the sheathing under the wire lath you want to keep sliding (or hammering ) the bar under the lath and prying the lath and stucco away from the sheathing as you go.
Then you could rent what is called a roof-eater which is used for removing roofing shingles , you will have more leverage with this tool.
good luck ! Bob

Knucklez 06-03-2008 10:07 PM

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ok.. talked to the product reps.

interesting. if you use rigid foam, then the air gap between board and foam must be a full 1". think, that is one LARGE furring strip!

they supply nails, recommend double hot dipped galvenized painted to same colour as wood.

let manufacturer paint the wood for you and they garuantee is for 15 years. they guarantee against wood rot for 50 years. also warrenty for free labour in the first 5 years if something goes wrong. so that's pretty impressive.

cape cod uses "lodgepole pine" only. research shows this to be a good all around choice.

two main suppliers in my region are maibec and cape cod. i don't know the difference between the two, they seem similar.

don't need to flash the 45 deg. cut, but you do need to nail it to the furring strip that must be under the joint.

you can use stainless still ring shank nails, but they are overkill and expensive. since they warrenty product with the double hot dipped galvenized, then that's good enough for me.

the nailing pattern was odd. for 10" wide, they recommended putting a nail at each end. i thought that would lead to wood split.. but they said the wood is kiln dried to 8% moisture so it won't split. what about seasonal changes? i think i need to confirm the nailing pattern....

note: using Google Sketchup to do your house measurements and dimensioning was really helpful.

hopefully wood will be here in august..

buletbob 06-04-2008 05:12 PM


They are correct, There product you state is kilned dried. plus they are going to paint the material. And the moisture content is 8% as you stated. Nailing on both sides will not have an effect on the board splitting because of the moisture content and the fact that the material is all ready protected with paint.
Here on the island we use rough sawn red cedar with a moisture content much higher, the material is green. so nailing both ends will cause the product to split when it starts to dry out.
it sounds that you have found a very good manufacture, I would be very interasted in knowing what the cost would be for the material.
Thanks for the reply and good luck. BOB

Knucklez 06-06-2008 09:48 PM

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ya, i have a really good feeling about the board & batten job. the manufacturer is "cape cod" you can probably google them. one difference between the chosen supplier of wood and other supplier "maibec" was that maibec uses black spruce wood which they have to cut the knotts out and so you end up getting shorter pieces.

i'm not too worried about hiding the nails under the batten (and run risk of splitting the wood through act of nailing so close to edge, or due to seasonal moisture changes) since the nails are coming colour matched. stainless steel nails (ended up getting these upgraded nails though its overkill). in fact 65 lbs of them just for the board & batten alone.

for 1600 sq. ft home, fully detached two story.. was 2000 ft^2 of board & batten and just over 2000 linear feet of 1x3x10' furring strips. i also have a few hundred linear feet of 1x4 trim for windows and outside corners, some fishscale trim pieces for gables, a tonne more nails and custom colour(s) pre-stained and guaranteed for 15 yrs... price with taxes & delivery was $11K.

i wonder how this cost stacks up to other exterior finishes?

i used free 3D drawing software called "google sketchup" to draw my house and dimension the house. its probably accurate to within 1". having never used the software before, it took me roughly 4 hours to do this task. but now i can use the model to do extra things design decks, pattio, garage etc. so was time well spent.

i have some questions about how to do trim for windows and such, but i'm not ready to ask them yet. however, if you check back to this thread over the next few weeks every now and again i'd really appreciate it if you could help out.


Knucklez 06-19-2008 08:44 PM

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no mesh behind stucco. do you have some handy tips on how to remove exterio stucco from pine plank sheathing?

i am thinking hammer and a cold chisel (as wide as i can buy)


skymaster 06-19-2008 09:23 PM

Knucklez; If it comes to that get a rebilt Bosch rotary hammer sds type, put in the wide chisel bit and at least YOU arent beating urself to death. They work great. If ya goin that way let me know, i will hunt the site where i got mine, 7/8" drill size, same guran t as new and i believe i only paid about 120 bucks

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