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elmaur 05-20-2012 02:20 PM

Best way to plumb a wall
 
I have exposed slump block walls that I would like to cover with sheetrock for appearance and insulation. The rooms are small so I want to frame to only 1 1/2" depth. The floor is concrete slab. What is the best way to plumb the walls?

jaydevries 05-20-2012 02:47 PM

try one off these products
http://www.insofast.com/isf_installation.html
http://www.ovrx.com/basement-wall-panels.html

elmaur 05-20-2012 05:19 PM

Slump block walls are uneven and irregular. I need to frame a wall in front of it with studs probably 24" on center. My question is what is the best way for one person working to match the top plate to the bottom in order for the wall to be plumb?

Evstarr 05-20-2012 05:22 PM

Plumb bob?

elmaur 05-20-2012 05:28 PM

Yes I was thinking of a plumb bob. Probably what I'll do unless there are other suggestions.

Yoyizit 05-20-2012 05:36 PM

You have to move the bob from one vertical edge of the wall to the other; really, you want to have a flat, plumb, wall in both the X (horiz) and Y (vert) directions. And, at right angles to both adjoining walls, if all these conditions can be met at the same time.

Sounds like a laser light spinning in the vertical plane (rotor horizontal and at right angles to the desired plane of the wall) would be good here.

Scope out how bad the wall is before driving a single nail so you don't end up "painting yourself into a corner". Bash/chisel off the high spots.

kwikfishron 05-20-2012 05:39 PM

1 Attachment(s)
Buy a Level. Plumb bobs have there uses but not the best choice to plumb a wall.

oh'mike 05-20-2012 06:47 PM

Choose a stronger stud--2x2 on 24 inch centers will be to weak---

Duckweather 05-22-2012 06:32 PM

Isn't Plumb Bob the plumbers name? To overcome studs with little crooks and bends, I have a small block on each end of my 6' level so I get top & bottom exact.

CrossWorks 05-22-2012 07:04 PM

I think in this case you probably should use metal studs. I'm not too familiar with the product but I am pretty sure you can get top & bottom plates that are the thickness of the metal stud in order to frame walls meant to be 1-1/2 " thick rather than 3-1/2" which is standard.

Also to your benefit, the studs are guaranteed to be straight! Aaaand, no rot! :thumbsup:

kj6887 05-22-2012 07:40 PM

To be parallel to the wall opposite the block wall that you wish to cover measure off of the opposite wall equal lengths on the floor and ceiling (provided said wall is plumb) mark both ends chalk line and begin. If you use metal studs they come in 1 5/8" they can get a little bouncy but if you put a clip back to the block wall at say 4' or so it stiffens it up nicely.

Evstarr 06-12-2012 11:33 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by CrossWorks
...no rot! :thumbsup:

If there's any moisture at all they'll rust out.

coupe 06-17-2012 11:24 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by kwikfishron (Post 925279)
Buy a Level. Plumb bobs have there uses but not the best choice to plumb a wall.

I've been around construction since 1958, I've yet to meet a level I truly trust. until I've checked it and calibrated it using a plumb bob for plumb and a laser level for level! being made on an assembly line, molds wear, parts wear, who's to say a 1/2" bubble between two lines equals level? water runs level if allowed. air, not necessarily so?

the important thing is make sure your wall is square to any future walls or ceiling you may install! also as Mike says 2x2's will be very weak! if 1 1/2" is all you can lose or want to lose? I'd frame the wall at no more than 12" on center. personally, I'd go no more than 8" on center for added strength and use 5/8 drywall or go to at least a 2x3 for framing the few extra dollars will make you much happier with the end result!

I've yet to see a galvanized metal stud rust or rot. though the fasteners used must be stainless steel or at least cadmium coated. your project= your choice.
Plumb bobs have there uses but not the best choice to plumb a wall. and their use is right there to plumb a wall
good luck


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