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-   -   Best way to handle this - furring out concrete freeze wall (http://www.diychatroom.com/f19/best-way-handle-furring-out-concrete-freeze-wall-8448/)

J187 05-14-2007 01:52 PM

Best way to handle this - furring out concrete freeze wall
 
I have a concrete freeze wall 3.5 feet high which extends along the far wall of my basement family room. Presently, there are 1x3 nailing strips attatched to the concrete and 1/4" wood paneling attached to that. The concrete has a foil barrier over the furring strips and the concrete. I would like to wainscot the wall, but first, I would like to fur it out a bit further so I can put receptacles on the wall. I would need another 3" or so. What would be the best way to go about this? Use the existing nailing strips to attach addition strips, 2x4s or something, or Pull off the strips and start from scratch and ramset some new stips in.

KUIPORNG 05-14-2007 02:57 PM

I would demolish and rebuild with 2x4...

J187 05-14-2007 02:59 PM

Just replacing the old strips w/ 2x4s, I would need to maybe double up on the 2x4s? Either that or attach them sideways to the concrete which doesn't seem like an easy task. Otherwise, I still won't have clearance for recpetacle boxes.

KUIPORNG 05-14-2007 03:07 PM

I thought you can build half wall with 2x4... I suppose anchored it to the concrete only requires to be at a few spots not everywhere... and you can keep the existing 1x3 strips as long as it does not on the frame's way to minimze work...

J187 05-14-2007 03:36 PM

By build a half-wall are you saying build it w/ a top plate and sill plate and studS? I could anchor the sill plate no problem, but not the top plate. 2x4s sideways would work, but wouldn't it be hard to anchor them to concrete sideways?

KUIPORNG 05-14-2007 03:55 PM

ok... wait for WBAtlanticConst's reply... he is one of the expect for this type of thing...

AtlanticWBConst. 05-14-2007 03:58 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by J187 (Post 44974)
By build a half-wall are you saying build it w/ a top plate and sill plate and studS? I could anchor the sill plate no problem, but not the top plate. 2x4s sideways would work, but wouldn't it be hard to anchor them to concrete sideways?

You can use 1/2" PT plywood. Cut it to size to fit from the newly framed knee wall to the top of the freezwall. Attach using powder actuated fasteners to the concrete. Attach with stainless, galvanized or ceramic coated fasteners on the framed wall side.
Plumb it all up....

Later, install your wood shelf over this (using shims to level it all), also it (the Plywood) gives you a nailing backer....

J187 05-14-2007 04:39 PM

So you are saying to frame up the knee wall to within a 1/2" of the freezewall than lay the play over so that its sitting atop the topplate of the kneewall and the top of the concrete freezewall? If so, sounds good, but I will have to do some more inspection, the top of the concrete I had noticed in someplaces was not in great shape, crumbling a bit.

Also, the foil barrier, should I leave that or take it down and replace it and if so with what. Its got a few rips in it here and there but otherwise is in pretty good condition.

http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y15...Picture002.jpg

AtlanticWBConst. 05-14-2007 05:06 PM

J,

If the concrete is in poor shape, you could also place a 2"x2" cleat (horizontally) onto the freeze wall next to that bottom plate of the existing framing.

Place a moisture barrier between the cleat and the concrete. Attach the cleat directly to the bottom plate by nailing the cleat on it's face and driving the nails (or screws) 'horizontally' into the bottom plate.

Build your kneewall up to the height to match the cleat's height.
(You could place shims under the cleat to level it).

You should have some space between the knee wall and the framing for any moist air circulation. You also may want to consider rigid foam there if you are going to be closer than 1" from the concrete.

Then use regular 1/2" CDX plywood to attach as a 'cap' to tie the new knee wall to the cleat. Plumb and level it before attaching.
Remember that any inconsistencies on the level top area can be straightened out by placing shims between the top finished wood cap and the plywood - when you are doing your finished trim work.

AtlanticWBConst. 05-14-2007 05:09 PM

BTW- I would just rip all that ridiculous foil out of there.....

J187 05-14-2007 05:17 PM

Thank you sir, I'm on it.


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