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TheEplumber 11-16-2012 02:29 PM

Best way to anchor stair wall
 
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I'm a plumber stepping slightly outside his zone here- but not much though. Use to frame when I was a young buck.
So I built these stairs and installed an ADA lift beside it. Alls good but I've got too much side wiggle in the walls. Need ideas on an anchor to take the movement out. Thinking about an HD5 or something like that. (Concrete floor)

ddawg16 11-16-2012 02:37 PM

On that existing design, without some side support...it will wiggle.

Normally, the first post has a metal rod going up inside and that is bolted to the floor.

TheEplumber 11-16-2012 02:42 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ddawg16 (Post 1053677)
On that existing design, without some side support...it will wiggle.

Normally, the first post has a metal rod going up inside and that is bolted to the floor.

Thats why I was thinking about using a seismic anchor like a hold down. It would bolt to the stud and imbed into the slab

ddawg16 11-16-2012 02:44 PM

E...I'm trying to upload a pic for you...but photobucket is not going along with the program...

TheEplumber 11-16-2012 02:47 PM

OK. I've got to get back to the job. Meeting Sparky for the wiring on the chair lift. I'll check back through my phone

ddawg16 11-16-2012 02:49 PM

1 Attachment(s)
I've given up on Photointhebucket....let me know if this helps

TheEplumber 11-16-2012 03:09 PM

Did you fabricate this or buy it. I'd have change the design slightly- need to bolt to a slab and vertically to the face of framing. But it's doable- thanks!

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ddawg16 11-16-2012 03:12 PM

I'm not there yet....I will be making it myself.....need to finish the plumbing next week.....and electrical....and windows....and framing...

joecaption 11-16-2012 03:39 PM

Seem to to missing a stair skirt.
There should have been a 2 X 4 attached to the stringer to kick out the wall by 1-1/2 so a skirt and sheetrock would slip in.
An easy way to "firm" it up would be a predrilled hole that's first counter bored to the size of the head on a lag bolt plus a washer and screw the 2 X 4 to the stringer.
Trying to use a threaded rod will do nothing but hold it tighter to the floor.

TheEplumber 11-16-2012 04:00 PM

No joe, the 2x4 is on the stringer- I know better then that.
Don't recall mentioning threaded rod.
Attaching to the stringer will only give support to the first 12" so no go on that.
Going to anchor to the slab and bolt square stock or flat plate vertical to the end stud

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mae-ling 11-16-2012 04:01 PM

what I do with cases like this where I can not attach through the floor is...
Make a large L bracket it would be 3" wide and 14" on one leg and 24" on the other.
the 14" leg gets screwed on top of the bottom plate (in your case even into the concrete) then it runs 24" up the inside of the last stud which I double and gets screwed to it. Keeps the last stud from being able to twist sideways.

joecaption 11-16-2012 04:05 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ddawg16 (Post 1053677)
On that existing design, without some side support...it will wiggle.

Normally, the first post has a metal rod going up inside and that is bolted to the floor.

You did not mention it, ddawg did.

TheEplumber 11-16-2012 04:05 PM

That's about what I'm thinking.

Simpson makes HD brackets but I haven't seen their catalog in a while. I'm sure they've got something that will work

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TheEplumber 11-16-2012 04:12 PM

Ddawg's drawing shows square stock- wouldn't consider rod even though I've got a 100 ft in the back of my truck:)
Hey, that gave me an idea. A vertical piece of unistrut with a base plate welded on it and bolted to the concrete- the strut will be lagged to the studs

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oh'mike 11-17-2012 04:41 AM

After yo make your anchoring---consider sheeting with 1/2" plywood before your drywall----

Most times I have an unsupported wing wall like that I frame with 2x6---and then box it with plywood--


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