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Old 06-26-2013, 06:53 PM   #1
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Beam Install in garage


I am currently builds a garage/workshop and getting to install supports for my LVL beam in the center to support trusses. My question is whether my beam height should be dead in plane with my top plate or perhaps a 1/4" proud for any compression?

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Old 06-26-2013, 07:14 PM   #2
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Beam Install in garage


Perhaps post a picture, and explain better exactly what it is you are trying to achieve. Generally use of an LVL indicates design by an engineer or architect, or at least the LVL was sized by a lumber company that knows what they are doing. So you may want to start by asking the supplier whether your idea is sound.

If your goal was to have a dead flat beam after loading, the best way to achieve that would have been to order the LVL precambered. If you have not yet procured the LVL, you can specify the precamber you want, which will allow the beam to lay flat after loading. Computing precamber requires you to compute short term (elastic) and long term deflection, which the manufacturer of the LVL can help you with.

If you already have the LVL, it is a bit late to raise it by 1/4 inch, as it will deflect at the center regardless, and you will still not have a dead flat beam, if that is in fact your objective.

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Old 06-26-2013, 07:24 PM   #3
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Originally Posted by Daniel Holzman View Post
Perhaps post a picture, and explain better exactly what it is you are trying to achieve. Generally use of an LVL indicates design by an engineer or architect, or at least the LVL was sized by a lumber company that knows what they are doing. So you may want to start by asking the supplier whether your idea is sound.

If your goal was to have a dead flat beam after loading, the best way to achieve that would have been to order the LVL precambered. If you have not yet procured the LVL, you can specify the precamber you want, which will allow the beam to lay flat after loading. Computing precamber requires you to compute short term (elastic) and long term deflection, which the manufacturer of the LVL can help you with.

If you already have the LVL, it is a bit late to raise it by 1/4 inch, as it will deflect at the center regardless, and you will still not have a dead flat beam, if that is in fact your objective.
Geez Dan... Thank you... Great explanation... and I never even knew that concept.

What generally is the application, just in high end custom homes who want superior floor performance?

Is it pretty pricey.

Is precambering in principal just a crowned LVL.

TIA
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Old 06-26-2013, 07:38 PM   #4
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Beam Install in garage


Trusses designed right would not need a center support unless there's something your not telling us.
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Old 06-26-2013, 08:24 PM   #5
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Beam Install in garage


My span is 28 ft with trusses designed for open living space. Truss and beam were sized and designed for live load and I wanted the center beam for insurance against too much deflection
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Old 06-26-2013, 09:09 PM   #6
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So you have 28 foot trusses, and you want to support them at the center to reduce truss deflection at the center. It would be prudent to run your idea by the truss manufacturer, since you will be loading the truss in a way not expected by the truss manufacturer, which could void their warranty. Not saying it can't be done, just saying you gotta play by the rules if you want to keep your warranty.

As for precamber of LVL's, it is often possible to purchase an LVL with a specified amount of deflection (camber) built in. Not all LVL makers will do this, however interestingly many of them offer cambered LVL's as a standard option, albeit at extra cost. This appeals to high end homeowners, architect designed houses, and plain old folks who want a floor that lays flat.

The idea of precambered beams is standard in the steel and precast concrete industry, and is extensively used in bridge building, in order to get a flat deck which sheds water better (note the deck is flat, not level) than a deck with a dip at the center. The shape of the beam is computed using deflection theory, the beam is built to a specific shape, and when it is loaded, it settles down to a flat shape. With wood, you have to account for additional long term deflection (creep), else the beam shape is not quite right.
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Old 06-26-2013, 09:22 PM   #7
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Thank You Dan.... Very informative
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Old 06-26-2013, 09:24 PM   #8
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Thanks Daniel, the truss manufacturer designed the truss and sized the LVL beam for the center support. Just trying to understand if during installation, the top of the LVL beam should be level with the top plate on the exterior stud wall.
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Old 06-26-2013, 10:19 PM   #9
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Thanks Daniel, the truss manufacturer designed the truss and sized the LVL beam for the center support. Just trying to understand if during installation, the top of the LVL beam should be level with the top plate on the exterior stud wall.
Buck.... I'd like to try this after listening to Dan.... but unless it was ordered/ designed as a specialty cambered beam(LVL), then set it as normallflush with your top plates... Heck, the truss company may have downsized their truses considering the beam.

Your trusses should come with the engineering spec's and stamp... probably designating aflush beam mount.

But the best would be to double check/ coordinate with the truss company engineers... maybe setting high would remove all deflection in your trusses. But I'd want it on the plans.

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