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Old 06-28-2008, 12:10 PM   #16
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Basement Waterproofing


I have posted pics of the area where the major water problem occurs. Pics show the OIl tank in place, and after removal. They are in the photos section:

http://www.diychatroom.com/members/javan-24925/albums/javans-basement-issues/

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Old 06-30-2008, 09:35 AM   #17
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So yesterday I made the first real attempt at fixing this problem:

1. Hosed off wall and scrubbed with metal brush
2. Scrubbed wall with Muratic Acid solution
3. Chipped out the areas where the joints were cracking through the original drylock (or whatever they used).
4. Patched the cracked joints with UGL Drylock Patch
5. Enlarged and attempted to plug two leaking holes with UGL Fast Plug.

Tonight I will continue with the crack patching and try and plug some more holes. Of the two holes I plugged yesterday, one worked, one did not.

I have used Fast Plug (or a similar product) before with good luck, so for now, with 7 leaks, the product has worked 6 times. The problem I have is that the product is more geared towards small leaks. I have a continuous joint between two rows of blocks that is leaking. I tried a vertical joint section that was about 6" long, but I could not keep the plug intact long enough for it to cure. Thinking that I need to do this in real small steps. (maybe keep the repair spots to a 1 or 2" length maximum. Thoughts and advice here are welcome!!!

My ultimate plan is:
1. Patch the joints.
2. Plug the leaks.
3. Apply Drylok over the entire area.

Was thinking of Block Bond over the area, but Iam not sure that it would adhere to Drylok, and I really do not want to get a sandblaster to removed that existing drylok (or whatever it is).....
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Old 06-30-2008, 09:42 AM   #18
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Basement Waterproofing


javan - Four people participated in this thread to date. ALL have recommended you start outside first. Why have you asked for advice here and are now not following the advice given? Just curious.

Promise you will post your results after some good heavy rains?
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Old 06-30-2008, 11:29 AM   #19
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If you are filling larger cracks I believe hydrolic cement is the recommended filler. You may want to read up on that. Also I wouldn't paint the dryloc on until you are sure the leaks are corrected- perhaps after the next heavy rain or run the garden hose around the foundation. Like the other posters have said- fixing it from the outside is paramount for long term results. Good Luck!
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Old 06-30-2008, 12:37 PM   #20
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The outside issues are such that the landscaping is currently pitched towards the house in a few areas. That being said. The ground outside the house (against the foundation wall) is dry to the touch. I can run my fingers through the dirt with no real wetness. I do intend to deal with the grading issue. However, no amount of regrading (asside from digging down to the footer, etc.) will take away the water that is coming in at the base of the wall. I have tried to explain this previously. If the water was indeed coming in up near the 1st few courses of block, or if the water a major stream coming through elsewhere, with the ground saturated at the wall outside, I would certainly be out there trying to alleviate that problem. However, the leak is slight and it is at the floor/wall joint and at the top of the 1st course of block, which does indicate that it is ground water. Lastly, water plug works when there is water present (when it is leaking), so I have to try and fix those active leaks when they are present. They will disappear during a prolonged dry spell..

I do agree that I will not apply any surface water-proofing until all leaks are addressed...
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Old 06-30-2008, 12:47 PM   #21
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waterproofing basement
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Old 06-30-2008, 01:50 PM   #22
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the leak's slight only because it hasn't destroyed enough block yet,,, if you enjoy hitting yourself in the head w/hammers, keep on doing what you've started,,, all you'll do's move the problem to another area of your formerly very fine wall, tho.

after all's said & done, you have no idea where the water's coming from,,, unless you're better at looking thru walls than others, that is.
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Old 06-30-2008, 01:51 PM   #23
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Javan - Yes, it is ground water, it gets there, at the bottom of the wall due to gravity. Everything flows and drains down hill. Trust me - You time will be significantly better spent fixing the "landscaping is currently pitched towards the house in a few areas" and extending downspouts if they aren't yet.
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Old 07-01-2008, 11:21 AM   #24
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So, last night, I plugged yet another hole in the wall at the top of the 1st course of block.

Additionally, I also started the regrading process. I have three nasty stumps to remove (forget what the bushes were, possible Yews?). Anyway, I am slowly working my way to the front of the house to regrade this. One issue I found immediately was that there was a Pressure Treated landscape timber doweled into an existing concrete edging that creates the "flower bed" about 4' from the house. The soil in this "bed" was flush or even higher than the timber and yes, does pitch towards the house in a lot of places. The P.O.'s had then placed bark mulch on top of the soil. This was all hidden by a wealth of various plants, bushes, etc. Long story short. Even though the mulch that was there appeared to have a minimal pitch away, the soil under neath is clearly pitched towards the house.

I have removed the PT timbers, which exposes a 4" wide concrete edger around the perimiter of the bed. This concrete is about 2" above an asphalt walk-way.

My plan:
1. remove all bark mulch, existing weed block fabric, etc.
2. trim back existing plantings to a minimum (we have some well established roses that we want to keep).
3. Add top soil and build up the grad such that there is a good pitch from the foundation wall to the concrete edging.
4. lay plastic over new graded soil.
5. cover plastic with more soil / mulch as needed for asthetics.

I was thinking of pitching the grade to about 2-4" below the conrete and running a 1" dia. perforated (corrugated) drain pipe along the base of the conrete edging (but above the plastic). Still on the fence about that one.

I will sketch this up and post when I get some time. At the very least for now, I intend to get the grading done by Wed PM, then cover with plastic since we will be away for almost a week over th 4th, and I do not want any more water coming in. granted I also hope to have all the holes plugged inside by then as well....

Thoughts / Comments?
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Old 07-02-2008, 07:51 AM   #25
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So, after spending a few more hours outside last night and looking closer at the areas of concern, I am seeing that there is a large portion of our driveway (honestly, I think they intended to create a patio with asphalt at one time), about 10' x 12', where it definately pitches towards the house. It was not as apparent initially due to all the overgrown vegetation.

I can get the landscaping to pitch away w/o much effort, but the asphalt is a much bigger problem...
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Old 07-08-2008, 10:52 AM   #26
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So, the outside is regraded, but I have not done any new landscaping yet. The interior walls have been patched and plugged.

We were gone for the holidays (left Thursday, got back last night). I know that there was some heavy rains on Thursday when we left. I still have a couple of spots where the water plug did not completely stop the leaks. However, it is greatly reduced from what it once was!
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Old 07-08-2008, 11:25 AM   #27
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As I alluded to above, I have a drainage problem with part of my driveway. There is a section that is maybe 8' x 6' that appears to have been used as a patio (sort of an L off of the driveway) that pitches towards the house. I need to water it down with the hose to confirm, but I think the pitch wants to go towards the house, more than towards the street. This is very old asphalt. I was curious what type of result to expect if I use some 50# bags of cold patch to try and build this up and pitch it away. I will try and post a picture tonight.

Last edited by javan; 07-08-2008 at 11:31 AM.
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Old 07-09-2008, 01:02 PM   #28
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I have added a photo to my album, showing the outside, where the asphalt pitches towards the house.

http://www.diychatroom.com/album.php?albumid=59
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Old 08-19-2008, 01:31 PM   #29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by javan View Post
I was curious what type of result to expect if I use some 50# bags of cold patch to try and build this up and pitch it away. I will try and post a picture tonight.
I would think that cold patch used to re-grade an existing drive would fail pretty quickly. That stuff is fine for filling holes but will fall apart as a resurfacer.
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Old 08-19-2008, 01:58 PM   #30
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Just a little update here.

The area that I had repaired previously, along with the outside regrading work is still holding up. However, like all things that happen, the water found a new route in, just further in along the floor/wall joint (but actually under a roofed portion). Similarly, in the front of the house, where the grading is good, there is still water at the floor/wall joint (chipped out trench), as there has been since day one.

There has only been 1 week this summer when there was no water there, and it was after about 3 weeks of zero or very minimal rain. I can sweep and vaccum this water, and still see an ever-so-slight trickle coming through. As the grading is good up top, the culprit is ground water. I will just keep moving down the wall, fixing these leaks as I see them. Still this is 100% better than it was. At least now all the water coming in is contained in this chisseled trench the P.O. put in, and not spilling out over the floor.

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