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Old 05-13-2010, 03:34 PM   #1
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basement wall waterproofing


I have a basement below grade, the walls and studs were moldy and I had them removed. I am confused about the best waterproofing sytem to use on the concrete walls. Is the waterproofing paint or the heavy duty reinforced poly the best way to go
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Old 05-13-2010, 09:13 PM   #2
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basement wall waterproofing


Neither is the best approach. There are no long term fixes that can be applied to the INTERIOR to stop leakage, only temporary band-aids.

Do some searching around this site and you'll find plenty of archived good info on the subject.
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Old 05-19-2010, 02:00 AM   #3
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basement wall waterproofing


Assuming the water is coming from the outside, you have to stop that first. For that, yes, search and ye shall find. If the water is from the inside, then you need to reduce the moisture in your basement air. I suspect it is coming from the outside, but don't know where you are.
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Old 05-19-2010, 05:33 PM   #4
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basement wall waterproofing


A penetrating concrete sealer would help decrease the amount of moisture vapor transmission that passes through your concrete walls. You can use this sealer on the floor also. This link has some good information for waterproofing concrete walls and floors.

http://www.everything-about-concrete...nt-floors.html
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Old 05-20-2010, 06:09 PM   #5
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basement wall waterproofing


penetrating concrete sealer will help to a certain degree vis-a-vis dampness,,, liquid water's another issue don't believe everything you read,,, this may be my last response to waterproofing,,, there's more'n enough in the archives to last a lifetime
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Old 08-30-2010, 01:58 PM   #6
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basement wall waterproofing


you mean this stuff's a penetrating siloxane & combo densifier at the same time ???????????

gawda-mighty, maybe there is a silver bullet after all but i doubt it no financial interest disclaimer, either ! ! !
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Old 08-30-2010, 04:04 PM   #7
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basement wall waterproofing


There are three basic causes for seepage and cracks in basement walls and floors. First, the original workmanship may have been poor. Second, the house may have settled causing cracks to appear in either the floor or walls. Finally, water pressure from the outside may have built up and be forcing water through the walls.

Leaks or seepage in basement walls or floors are easy to detect. Moisture will often begin to seep through at the area where the floor and walls join or along any cracks that may have appeared in the wall or floor. If there are no holes or cracks in the basement walls, a water-proofing compound can be applied directly to the walls by steps described a little later. However, almost all leaking basements have either cracks or holes in the walls or floors that should be repaired before any type of water-proofing coating is applied.

Hairline cracks can usually be filled with a regular water proofing mix. However, cracks larger than 1/8" should be cleaned out and patched, before the water-proof mix is applied and special epoxy and latex cement formulas can be purchased for mortaring small repair jobs or for brushing on as a water-proof coating. However, if you are doing a large repair job, you will probably want to mix your own mortar for patching holes and cracks before you start applying the water proofing coat. The mortar used for filling holes and cracks in cement basement walls or concrete block walls is usually made by mixing one part cement and two parts of fine sand with just enough water to make a rather stiff mortar.

Now if the water is merely seeping through the basement wall, this mixture of mortar cement can be forced into the crack with an ordinary trowel or putty knife. This will normally correct any small leakage problem. However, if outside pressure is forcing the water through the wall, you will have a tougher repair problem. This type of leak is often extremely difficult to correct and if the water is seeping in under pressure, a dovetail groove must be chipped out for the entire length of the cracked area. This dovetailed groove can be chipped out with a regular chipping chisel and hammer or with a cold chisel to enlarge the cracked area before mending it. The reason you create a dovetail space is this provides a holding power for the new mortar when it is inserted. If you chip a v groove, the mortar will often fall out of the repaired area when it dries take time to do it right. It will pay off in the long run.

Now if you have holes in your concrete or concrete block wall they should be repaired in much the same manner. Chip out the faulty or broken area in dovetail fashion and when the faulty cement around the edge of the hole has been completely chipped away, fill the hole, with the same mortar mix recommended for the filling of cracks. This is one part cement to two parts fine sand mixed with just enough water to create a stiff mortar. Place the mortar in the newly cleaned hole, and smooth out with an ordinary trowel. Be sure the mortar is pressed into all parts of the hole. Do not leave air pockets.

Now after all holes and cracks have been filled and patched according to theses instructions, you are then ready to apply the water proof mix. The first step is to moisten the basement wall with a fine spray before applying the water proofing mix. A garden hose with the nozzle set to a fine spray will do the job adequately. Although the walls should be damp when the water proof mix is applied, no water should be actually standing on the wall surface.

Water proof mixes of the epoxy or latex type can be purchased for treating basement walls and floors. Most of these mixes require only the addition of water. If you use this type of mix, be sure to follow the manufacturer's instructions carefully. Many modern waterproof mixes will not adhere to walls that have been painted. If you attempt to place water-proof mixes on painted walls, the old paint must first be removed by sanding, wire brushing or sand blasting before the water-proof mixture will adhere to the surface.

It is also important to remember that no epoxy or latex type water-proof coatings will bond to wet surfaces. When these types of materials are used, they should be applied to a surface that is completely dry. If you prefer, you can make your own wall coating mixture of plain cement and water. This should be mixed to form a slurry mixture that is about the consistency or cream.

Use a stiff brush and a circular motion to rub this water-proof mix into the wall. Take time to fill every pore in the wall. Start applying the coating at the bottom of the wall first. This is where the water pressure is likely to be greatest. After starting at the bottom, brush the water proofing mix on up to the top and then move back to the bottom, applying additional layers of the mixture slowly.

The water proofing mix should be brushed only over the area, where seepage or leakage is a problem. Feather out at the edges until you have completely covered the area where leakage or seepage has occurred. When the coating has dried sufficiently that it does not rub off, spray the area completely with water. Soak it thoroughly and then let it set overnight.

After the wall has dried overnight, wet it down thoroughly with a garden hose and apply a second coat of the water proofing mixture while the wall is still wet. Use the same techniques of brushing in the second coat as you did for the first coat. Use two coats in all cases. One coat simply will not correct the problem under normal conditions.

In many cases the basic leaking problem in a basement is centered near the joint of the floor and the wall. If the leaking is not a serious problem, it can often be corrected by trawling on a double layer of water proof coating at this floor joint. Use ordinary water proof coating mixture as previously described. Be sure the floor is clean where the mixture is to be applied.

If the seepage of water is heavy, a dovetailed joint should be cut where the floor and walls join. This can be done with a chipping chisel and a hammer and chip along the entire floor joint area to create a dovetail groove that will retain the waterproof mix.

Take time to chip this groove completely the length of the leaking area. Chipping out the dovetail groove is one of the most important steps in the repair job. After the dovetail groove has been completely chipped away, clean it out thoroughly and get ready to apply the waterproofing and repair mix. An ordinary brush or a tire pump can be used to brush or blow the small pieces of cement out of the chipped area.

The chipped out areas is then ready for the insertion of the mortar. The regular mixture of one part cement to two parts fine sand plus water can be used for this repair job. You can also use ready mix ingredients for the same job. Shove small amounts of the cement mix into the chipped out area and smooth out with an ordinary trowel. Do not apply more cement than you can trowel down in 2 to 3 minutes. This should cover it...
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Old 08-30-2010, 05:09 PM   #8
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basement wall waterproofing


you forgot the 4th - bldg code calls for a 3mil ' DAMPPROOFING ' coat - its not waterproofing nor has it ever been even today,,, many times water can intrude along the cove ( where wall meets floor ),,, this can be from a high water table, a ' false ' water table, OR water penetrating the wall.

Leaks or seepage in basement walls or floors ' may be easy to detect ' but are a s-o-a-b to fix properly & permanently,,, many times it comes down to $$$ - we all have to live w/i budgets, after all.

' Hairline cracks = ' regular water proofing mix ' wtf is that ??? 38 yrs we've been doing this work & i STILL have no idea how anyone defines ' waterproofing mix ',,, let me suggest no one else knows, either, so to the avg diy'er-h/o, its all smoke & mirrors !

just be thankful you have conc foundation walls rather'n block of ANY sort,,, at least conc can be repaired - block's improbable w/o exterior full-depth excavation OR installing a french drain, sump, & pump,,, even then the damage won't stop, tho !


i'm really getting sick & tired of anyone suggesting snake oil fixes ( drylock - thoroseal - waterproofing mixes ) that are a waste of effort, time, & $$$,,, either fix it right or stay on the porch,,, wtf's the sense of stopping water INSIDE a wall - just so you don't see it ? ? ? plain cement and water = parge coats - idiotic to me ! ' One coat simply will not correct the problem under normal conditions ' - hell, neither will 14 ! ! !

have a nice day

just to save anyone else the trouble of posting this, don't forget your downspouts & eave's troughs should dump away from the fnd walls

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Old 08-30-2010, 05:20 PM   #9
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basement wall waterproofing


good catch, scuba,,, maybe that **** works in mass, tho
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Old 08-30-2010, 05:37 PM   #10
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basement wall waterproofing


Yeah we have cold soil...so we always need warm water
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