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Old 06-27-2012, 12:16 PM   #16
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Basement stairs question


Yes, he returned after I took the wall out and insisted that everything is safe. I will try to take some more pictures tonight and share them.

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Old 06-27-2012, 12:31 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by andybeck View Post
....no offense but I decided to listen to someone with more experience than me who was able to see the situation first hand.

.... as true professionals, none of you would determine if a wall is or is not load bearing based on a picture and I wouldn't rely on a forum to help me make that decision.
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I will try to take some more pictures tonight and share them.
Why post more pics if you don't trust our analysis of a picture and can't be there in your basement with you? Just call your buddy. I believe you're trying to do the right thing, now you're just digging deeper. I stand by my previous recommendation: relax, leave the thread alone, and let it fade away. Come on back with your next project and next time don't tell us you've already secured a trusted answer but want our opinions of the situation just so you can disagree with them anyways.

Unless you're not 100% sure we're wrong??
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Old 06-27-2012, 12:46 PM   #18
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One reason why I would post more pictures is because someone else with a similar situation might stumble across this thread at some point. Another reason is because several people have asked that I share some more.

While I do welcome them, I never requested your opinion on the wall, only how to secure the rail! Furthermore, I never said anyone here was wrong! I only gave an explanation to the decision that I made. I have not done anything that is irreversible or can't be fixed. This is why I continue to post on the thread and solicit advice from professionals.

A larger reason for wanting to take the wall out besides the moving of furniture, was to make the area feel more open. I have still not ruled out adding a post as you have suggested. I will post some more pictures and if you all still tell me that it is unsafe, I will add a 4x4 post to the rail and secure it to the joists.
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Old 06-27-2012, 12:57 PM   #19
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Andy. You are right. I can't see the whole picture. More photos will help us see how it is framed. You have to understand though... Take for instance. Have you ever watched a show like Holmes on Homes? This guy rips apart what other "professionals" did. Albeit it is just a "reality" TV show, plenty of us have actually been to homes and had to fix other "professionals" work. Your contractor friend very well may be right. He did see the whole picture. But from the one picture we see, it appears to be load bearing, and if I see a photo and don't see any possible way for it not to be, then I , as a professional will raise the red flag up every time. This isn't a fight. Just a few people in the trade worried about you, your family, and your homes well being... It hasn't been said.. but was your home built somewhere around 1999-2002 ? Just curious.
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Old 06-27-2012, 01:45 PM   #20
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Copper, I appreciate your concern more than you know! My wife and I are expecting our first child in about 6 months and I too am extremely concerned with the safety of my family. I will get some more pictures so we can all get a better idea of the situation.

Out of curiosity, does it matter that there is nothing directly above this area of the ceiling? As I mentioned earlier, the foyer is above here and is two story.

I have attached a couple other pictures to this thread that you can look at in the meantime. http://www.diychatroom.com/f15/finishing-my-basement-147415/

I can't imagine they would help but I don't really know what you would be looking for.

The house was built in 2004.

Thanks again!
Andy
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Old 06-27-2012, 08:16 PM   #21
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Guys,

As promised here are several pictures that I took of the area in question. Let me know what you think.

Thanks!
Attached Thumbnails
Basement stairs question-image-1778201908.jpg   Basement stairs question-image-4138596959.jpg   Basement stairs question-image-3691444396.jpg   Basement stairs question-image-2435817367.jpg  
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Old 06-28-2012, 12:36 AM   #22
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Thew bottom left picture and the top right picture show no studs under the ends of the doubled floor joists.
Is there concrete on the other side of the studs? Looks like concrete for about 4' then wood above.
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Old 06-28-2012, 08:27 AM   #23
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I am not sure what they are tied into. I don't think it is concrete because like you said the concrete only goes up about 54". Being an exterior wall, I would assume they are tied to a header? Not even sure if that is what it would be called. It is probably a little hard to see with the 2x2's that I put up but in the third picture that looks up into the recessed area, it looks like they would be tied into that header.
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Old 06-28-2012, 12:31 PM   #24
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Man - Without being onsite it is hard to say if you need a post or not.
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Old 06-28-2012, 02:29 PM   #25
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Thanks Mae-ling! Let's see what some of the others think.
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Old 06-29-2012, 09:44 AM   #26
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Just wondering if someone can give me some input on whether or not I need a post at the bottom of the handrail. I am getting to a point where a decision needs to be made.

Thanks!
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Old 06-30-2012, 12:43 AM   #27
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The additional pictures help a little. hard to see the loads on the doubled joists running from the stair wall to the exterior wall (where you removed the wall). For one floor and your loads, if 10' x 7' wide, x 40# per sq.ft.= 2800# load. This is only for the floor loads above, not the second floor loads above that! A doubled 2x10 would carry it if using my measurements only, but not the additional floor loads, or any possible attic loads (struts and purlins). So if another bearing wall (with more floor load) is above the existing doubler, you are over-loaded for a doubler only, spanning as picture (if my figures are correct). Do you see a problem here? There may be a bearing floor above, no picture. This is one of those "need to be there" situations. I hope your friend is pretty sharp to figure the loads/spans/species/sizes/fiber bending/etc. when doing the math. I suggest hiring a Structural Engineer for a "house call" for a couple hundred dollars to be certain. This will remove the liability from us/your friend/you and have it in writing for your H.O.Insurance carrier/building Inspector, if ever a claim. This is a "structural" change I would not treat lightly.....my 2 cents as per your PM.

The joists over the steel girder need solid blocking to prevent overturning at the lap/bearing point there; http://publicecodes.citation.com/ico...002_par025.htm

The paper faced batts should be reinstalled after installing unfaced batts full depth, no air spaces for convective loops; http://joneakes.com/jons-fixit-database/743

Unless you foamboard the cold concrete walls first:http://findarticles.com/p/articles/m...6/ai_n8582994/

You have to fire-block to stop air flow in horizontal direction, every 10' lineally, as per code; http://publicecodes.citation.com/ico...002_par031.htm

How to; How to fireblock framing

There is much to get right on basement finishing, acquiring a permit for safety is the first step.

Gary
P.S. As mae-ling said, you need a post under the doubler at the exterior wall, plain to see it is missing.
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Old 07-02-2012, 08:52 AM   #28
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Thanks a lot Gary! This has been a lot of help!

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