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Old 01-10-2011, 12:40 PM   #1
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Basement insulation, another scenario


Hi all,
I have read through the building science stuff, but I am a little slow when it comes to this stuff...reading, etc...lol.
Is the building science article talking about building a basement wall right on the wall/insulation?

THIS is what I would like to do....please correct me.
I have a full basement in Chicago (brrrr...cold) with a builder's diaper.
The home is about 3 years old...basically dry. Saren wrap taped to floor seems ok, but there seems to be some fine dust (effloresence) near the floor/wall about 2 inches away. Haven't tested to see if this re-occurs....it's been there since move-in.

I would like to finish half of it, keep the other unfinished for storage.
Because of this, I have a vapor barrier question.

I am planning on pulling down the diaper and glue the pink board (2" or so) to the walls after inspecting them.

I plan to leave 1-2" of air gap, then build the stud wall, and I may reuse the fiberglass between the studs (removing any vapor barrier it has).
So....DO I put a vapor barrier behind the drywall and between the drywall/studs. They will be metal studs.
OR do I not have any vapor barrier?

I understand that the pink stuff allows water vapor through...correct?

Also, can I leave the diaper up in the storage areas?

Will moisture be an issue since the finished areas will only be separated by interior walls and standard hollow core doors.

Thanks!

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Old 01-11-2011, 10:29 PM   #2
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Basement insulation, another scenario


The foam board glued to the concrete after removing the diaper and insulation. NO vapor barrier plastic anywhere to enable drying to the interior and letting moisture out in the summer. No gap at stud wall/foam board for degrading your insulation; http://joneakes.com/jons-fixit-database/743
Sill sealer under the bottom pressure treated plate for a capillary/thermal break. Foam board and air seal the rim joists; http://www.rd.com/57548/article57548.html

Use ADA on the drywall; http://www.buildingscience.com/docum...wall-approach/
Add fire-stopping every 10 lineal feet across the framing and block joist bays from wood wall above. Use dipped galvanized nails with p.t. wood.

Gary

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Old 01-12-2011, 04:21 PM   #3
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Basement insulation, another scenario


Well, how do you NOT have an air space when the poured walls are not straight?

Since my basement will be half finished and half not finished....why would it matter if there is an airspace anyway?

Also, any soffits will create an airspace.

This is really confusing now....
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Old 01-13-2011, 08:31 PM   #4
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Basement insulation, another scenario


The idea is to prevent room air from reaching the concrete wall by gluing the foam board directly to the concrete. Use a level to find the closest your new wood frame wall can get to the foam. With bad concrete, you will have gaps. After you install the new batt insulation, any gaps between the foam and the batt will create convective loops, warming the framing at the top of the wall and attached there (rim joist, floor joist). Any end gaps exposed the the room will let air currents behind the batts to degrade their effectiveness. The soffits should be fire-blocked at the lower soffit level in the wall framing and prevent a wall fire from reaching the soffit or floor cavities above. Click on this link for fire-blocking the wall/soffit; How to fireblock framing


Gary
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