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-   -   Basement framing top plate obstacles (http://www.diychatroom.com/f19/basement-framing-top-plate-obstacles-181162/)

bryanp22 06-02-2013 09:42 PM

3 Attachment(s)
I am finishing a basement room and trying to determine best way to frame outer wall. I have a water pipe and conduit that contains the ground wire blocking where the top plate should go. I'd prefer to not move the water pipe because of the expense. What other options do I have? I've attached a few pictures.

one cut 06-02-2013 10:31 PM

One option would be to fasten a 2x4 to the concrete using a powder actuated fastener, build that out with 1/2 inch ply, and another 2x4 so you have a 3 1/2 inch wide member to use as the top plate to fasten your studs to.

TheEplumber 06-02-2013 10:38 PM

Honestly, I would drill some holes in the joists and move the water into the ceiling- pipe it in pex
Galvanized pipes fail eventually and it will ruin your new wall.

bryanp22 06-02-2013 10:41 PM

Then what about the conduit? It has the ground in it.

mae-ling 06-02-2013 10:58 PM

Are you styrofoaming the wall? Look up basement insulation.
Also water lines need to be warm, so be carefull of putting them in insulated wall.

Moving lines is the best.

bryanp22 06-02-2013 11:29 PM

I was not going to insulate. Temps are not really a issue. I will have to get an estimate on moving the line. Where I live requires a master plumber and a master electrician. I'm guessing the inspector would notice a new line pretty quick when he's looking at the framing.

Windows on Wash 06-03-2013 04:57 AM

Is that a fill port for a heating oil tank? Is it still there?

If so, can you move the tank and would you want to?

At the end of the day, framing that wall towards the interior side to miss everything looks like it will only cost you about 6".

bryanp22 06-03-2013 08:05 AM

Not that is my water supply line and the ground for my electrical.

wkearney99 06-03-2013 08:56 AM

I wouldn't be so sure about not insulating. If the space is going to get AC or heat then you should factor condensation and the potential for mold. Insulation and vapor barrier are a LOT cheaper than ripping it all apart because of mold.

The water line could probably best be dealt with by framing out around it going up and then having a bulkhead boxing it out along the ceiling. But I'd definitely have the electrical conduit moved. Otherwise you'd have to frame something around it and that just ends up looking awkward.

bryanp22 06-03-2013 08:58 AM

I cannot add a vapor barrier. A vapor barrier is against code in my area. I live in a Milwaukee suburb.

hand drive 06-03-2013 09:57 AM

this may seem odd but why not use large metal L angle pieces that sit/screw tight to the underside of joist and catches the wall plates and maybe even the studs of the wall. place studs so they are in line with the joists above and the L piece can come down onto stud. chances are it will only catch the plates though so a 6" L would give you 3" clearance above the plates and still go fully onto double top plates ... a 9" L would come down into the stud plane.

wkearney99 06-03-2013 09:58 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bryanp22 (Post 1194102)
I cannot add a vapor barrier. A vapor barrier is against code in my area. I live in a Milwaukee suburb.

Where is that documented online? Where does it specifically say you cannot install a vapor barrier for this kind of situation?

It would seem VERY strange to specifically disallow using a properly installed method to do it. Different areas and certain conditions can affect how vapor retarding systems are installed. But I've yet to hear of any place that just totally disallows the concept entirely.

bryanp22 06-03-2013 10:04 AM

I had emailed the inspector. He mentions it right away that I will fail inspection with a vapor barrier. I could use 2 inches of xps before studs if I want but no plastic.

wkearney99 06-03-2013 11:36 AM

No plastic on the masonry? That would make sense. But no plastic directly behind the drywall? Doesn't seem like it'd make much difference, but it would. You want to keep the condensation from forming where it would cause a problem. There are some situations where it'd be placed against the masonry directly but I wouldn't see this as one. But failed because of one behind drywall? That'd be strange.

So which is it?

bryanp22 06-03-2013 12:38 PM

Did you read the building science article? They explain it. My basement is all beneath the ground except for maybe the top two blocks. You area maybe different than mine. I just described my project to my inspector and asked common things that caused people to fail inspection and he said adding a vapor barrier. He said no vapor barrier and insulation was up to me.


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