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Old 03-09-2009, 02:27 PM   #1
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Basement framing Issue, need help


This might be a bit hard to explain, but here it goes...

Basically, I'm finishing our basement and was planning on framing with 2x4s (perpendicular to the wall), with 1/2" foam insulation on the wall, 1/2" of space, then the 2x4s... The problem is, the steps coming from upstairs were finished to the basement by the builder... he framed the steps int he following way:

2x4s against the wall, parallel to the wall (running long ways.)

Which means, when I frame the wall the (what i consider) proper way, the wall will pertrude past the existing door opening by 3"!

What would you do in this situation? Should I frame the length of that wall (about 25 feet) improperly, and do everything else correctly?

Do I have any other options?

Thanks!

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Old 03-09-2009, 02:38 PM   #2
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Basement framing Issue, need help


Here is a drawing showing what I'm talking about

Basement framing Issue, need help-whatimtalkingbout.jpg

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Old 03-09-2009, 02:49 PM   #3
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Basement framing Issue, need help


In this case, I'd suggest that you install Pressure Treated 2x4's on the flat. Use ridgid foam board for insulation. No Vapor Barrier, and install paperless drywall over that area.

Example of Pressure Treated 2x4 on the flat:
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Old 03-09-2009, 02:54 PM   #4
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Basement framing Issue, need help


What advantages does paperless drywall provide? Is that something to consider for the entire basement? Or just that wall against the foundation?

Also, when framing 2x4s parallel to the wall, how do I go about handling the top and bottom plates? should these be pressure treated 2x2s?
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Old 03-09-2009, 02:54 PM   #5
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Basement framing Issue, need help


Is that door already installed?

If so, would it be possible to move it over the couple of inches you need?
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Old 03-09-2009, 02:56 PM   #6
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Originally Posted by drtbk4ever View Post
Is that door already installed?

If so, would it be possible to move it over the couple of inches you need?
It is already installed, and I could possibly move it over.... but that would add to an already complicated job. (Plus the stairs come pretty close to the door opening already and I'm not sure I'd have the clearance required)
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Old 03-09-2009, 02:58 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AtlanticWBConst. View Post
Example of Pressure Treated 2x4 on the flat:
So in this case, the 2x4s get nailed directly to the foundation with no bottom plate?

Is that up to code?
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Old 03-09-2009, 03:02 PM   #8
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I was thinking about this, and if i framed with 2x4s attached to the wall, how would I go about running electric/installing required outlets?
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Old 03-09-2009, 03:05 PM   #9
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Basement framing Issue, need help


Quote:
Originally Posted by jthawkins View Post
What advantages does paperless drywall provide?
Completely Mold Resistant product = no paper, which feeds mold.

Product: http://www.gp.com/build/product.aspx?pid=4659

Discussion: http://www.askthebuilder.com/688_Pap..._Drywall.shtml

Quote:
Originally Posted by jthawkins View Post
Is that something to consider for the entire basement? Or just that wall against the foundation??
It really depends on your basement, and the humidity levels/dampness there. Generally, I prefer to install it either of two ways:
1. All Walls.
2. Only the lower area of the walls that meet the floor.

The difference is based on the overall moisture levels in the basement. Example - Older homes tend to have a higher moisture content in the basement. Newer homes, due to better construction/foundation waterproofing/drainage design....tend to be very-dry/very-low moisture content - in the basement.

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Originally Posted by jthawkins View Post
Also, when framing 2x4s parallel to the wall, how do I go about handling the top and bottom plates? should these be pressure treated 2x2s?
Parallel to the walls: the bottom plates should always be PT, because they are in direct contact with the concrete floor, which is porous and contains percentage of moisture, which can wick-up, into the wood plate.
Top plate can be KD (non PT).

One more thing: Any nails going into PT wood, must be "treated", or galvanized, due to the copper treatment of the PT wood. If you use standard brights, the metal will react with the copper treatment in the PT wood, and will start to corode the nails.
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Old 03-09-2009, 03:06 PM   #10
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Originally Posted by jthawkins View Post
So in this case, the 2x4s get nailed directly to the foundation with no bottom plate?

Is that up to code?
Yes, it is not a load bearing wall. You are simply finishing the wall area.
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Old 03-09-2009, 03:08 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jthawkins View Post
I was thinking about this, and if i framed with 2x4s attached to the wall, how would I go about running electric/installing required outlets?
It can still be done. Use low-profile electrical boxes.
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Old 03-09-2009, 03:09 PM   #12
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Basement framing Issue, need help


Realize that if this is a long wall, you don't necessarily have to frame out the entire wall like this. You can just do the area of the door clearance, and jog the wall back-over (for stick framing), about 6' past the door location. You can also skip an electrical outlet there, if that were the case...
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Old 03-09-2009, 03:11 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AtlanticWBConst. View Post
It can still be done. Use low-profile electrical boxes.
Excellent; thanks for taking the time to provide detailed responses.

I like the idea of mold resistant drywall; our basement definitely retains moisture as the dehumidifier is always busy doing something.
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Old 03-09-2009, 03:12 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AtlanticWBConst. View Post
Realize that if this is a long wall, you don't necessarily have to frame out the entire wall like this. You can just do the area of the door clearance, and jog the wall back-over (for stick framing), about 6' past the door location. You can also skip an electrical outlet there, if that were the case...
I'm considering doing this; but am not quite sure how it will look finished to have a 2-3" lip on the wall about 5-6 feet in.
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Old 03-09-2009, 03:15 PM   #15
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Quote:
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I'm considering doing this; but am not quite sure how it will look finished to have a 2-3" lip on the wall about 5-6 feet in.
It wouldn't be a lip, it would be an outside corner. FWIW - Basements are full of corners, due to various aspects like utility lines, duct work, etc....Not unusual.

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