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khatz 12-29-2011 12:04 AM

basement framing and insulating questions around ledge
 
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Hi,

This is the first posting.
I'm planning to remodel my basement built in 1980's in NJ.
It has 3'8" bottom half, and top half both for cinder block (total 7' only).
This type of basement is very unusual, because normally wood frame will be installed from ground level. Also there is a french drain and sump, too.
I don't have any experiences, so try to learn as much as possible before begin.

The wall is divided by ground level (3'8" down, 3'4" up).
My plan is to insulate the cinder block with 1 inch XPS, and build stud for half wall. And, frame the top half. But there is a ledge at a ground level and it's sloped about 30 degrees.
I draw two possibility of framing around ledge.

a - shown left) use 2x8 as the top plate of half wall and screw it to ledge, but it's sloped. Dunno how difficult it is. 2x8 also serves as the bottom plate of the top half wall.
b - shown right) use 2x4 as the top plate, and cover ledge with 1x4 or 2x4. and use 2x8 for bottom plate of the top half wall. This option gives me of framing and raising it against wall, I guess.

Also I assume, I need to insulate with XPS (or at least better) even for cinder block wall above the ground level. Is this overkill? Can I use some cheaper method of insulation?

khatz 12-29-2011 12:15 AM

another question about framing the top wall
 
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There is a hot water pipe running perpendicular to joist which exactly overlap the top plate should be attached to. (in picture the brown pipe to the ceiling)

It comes down around 1.5", so I'm thinking adding furring board of 2x2 or 2x4 next to hot water pipe, and screw top plate to the furring board.
The problem is the top plate will be attached to the furring board only for the half width, and it becomes L shape. Dunno how stable it would be.

abracaboom 12-29-2011 12:21 AM

I would use method (b), but without the 1x4 or 2x4 ledge cover. Use some brackets to hold the upper wall to the wall instead.
Remember to use pressure treated lumber for the bottom plate, and to leave an air gap between the studs and the brick wall.
Fiberglass insulation between the studs will be cheaper and more efficient, I believe.

khatz 12-29-2011 09:25 AM

Thanks abracaboom.

What kind of bracket do you mean?

abracaboom 12-29-2011 10:23 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by khatz (Post 806291)
Thanks abracaboom.

What kind of bracket do you mean?

On both your lower and top 2x4 walls, you will need some kind of L-brackets attached to both the studs and the masonry to keep the stud walls from falling in. Those same brackets will keep the 2x8 from sinking.

I would also add, once the bottom wall is up, some concrete or cement points every 2 feet or so level with the top of the plate to support the 2x8 (faster and simpler than adding continuous 1x4 or 2x4 supports, which would be too high at some points for sure and would drive you crazy trying to shave them here and there).

12penny 12-29-2011 12:10 PM

Unless ur trying to keep the ledge, why not frame floor to ceiling?

khatz 12-29-2011 03:29 PM

Thanks for your input. I will find more inf o about L bracket.(size, material)

For the reason I am keeping the ledge is to Have nice shelf after finishing. Also not sure how i can fill up the hollow space. If it is much easier, then i might have to think about that option, too.

mae-ling 12-29-2011 05:21 PM

Build lower wall first then toe screw upper studs to lower wall. Or build upper wall with a 2x4 bottom plate that gets nailed to the 2X8. I would not use brackets. Nothing wronge with them just more cost effective and faster these other ways.

(Read GBR below- much better ways *** IGNORE THIS You could use regular fiberglass insulation for all of the wall. I put a 2" piece of styrofaom in the bottom of each spacing between the studs. Stops wicking of water up the insulation.)

Also keep the drywall up 2" or as high as baseboards will allow (higher if taller baseboards,) and put 1/2" ply behind the baseboards.

Gary in WA 01-02-2012 01:50 PM

http://www.buildingscience.com/docum...g-your-basment

http://www.buildingscience.com/docum...-at-rim-joist/

http://www.buildingscience.com/docum...wall-approach/

http://www.greenbuildingadvisor.com/...-building-code

Gary


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