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Old 10-29-2011, 08:05 AM   #1
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Basement Framing

We started framing our basement and come across a few areas that I am looking for someone to help point me in the right direction.

First of all, I am very much new at framing, as this is my real first project in regards to framing.

I have started framing my bathroom walls. I will have 1 wall that will be 2x6 (plumbing pipe) and it will meet a 2x4 wall. Any tricks or suggestions on making the 2x6 wall corner to the 2x4 wall?

Also, I have the main sewer pipe running along the entire wall. I want to build a soffit, but the pipe has a pitch, If i go to the lowest point of the pitch, the soffit will cover the top of my door walk out. Should i just create 2 soffits?

As you can tell from my questions, I am very much new at this....

Thanks for your all your help.....


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Old 10-29-2011, 08:35 AM   #2
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I'm a novice myself so I can't offer much advice but just like you I have started framing my basement and I have already learned a couple things that might help you.

If you are framing a stud wall against a poured foundation wall, don't frame it tight to the wall. My wall was not perfectly straight and yours probably isn't either. Especially if it's a poured wall. Keep your stud wall about an inch away from your basement wall and you can keep it plum, level and square.

I have a sewer line that runs parallel with the top of my stud. I could have built a soffit around it but I kept the top of the wall below the sewer line and installed brackets up to my floor joists. This is working pretty well. Good luck.


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Old 10-29-2011, 12:25 PM   #3
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for framing basements ALWAYS have the stud wall a minimum of 1" away from the foundation, so for a 2x4 wall the face of the wall should be 4 1/2" inches away, mark this on both ends of the wall and snap a line through.. check in a few spots to make sure you have 4 1 /2" distance between the line and the wall. if its more in the middle thats fine, if its less bring the wall out a little more

for creating the inside corner i use a couple different methods. i run my plates full length, then the stud in the corner will be just before the joining wall . i.e mark "X" 4 1/2" in from the end of the plate with the x back in to the room. another method is to install a "L Stud" at the end of the wall, this creates backing for drywall and it stiffens up the corner so theres no flex
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Old 10-29-2011, 01:37 PM   #4
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Just add a 2x6 to the end stud of the 2x4 wall for a "California" corner.

Remember to add a fire-stop to stop fire from going past any gap between top plates into the joist bays above: How to fireblock framing

Use a sill sealer under the p.t. bottom plate for an air/thermal/capillary break:

Add fire blocking every 10’ lineally tight to the concrete wall as per minimum safety code:
Using wood against the walls;

Then add your foamboard if in Zone 4 or higher.

Insulate and air seal the rim joists:

And the drywall:

No gap between insulation:

Going to be one-warm-basement when you are done…..

If any ads are present below my answer or words underlined/colored, I do not condone/support/use the product or services listed/linked to, they are there without my consent.
17,000 dryer fires a year, when did you last clean the inside of the dryer near motor or the exhaust ducting?
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Old 10-30-2011, 10:38 AM   #5
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Great stuff!!! thanks for all the input. I look forward to this challenge...
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