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Old 01-21-2007, 02:05 PM   #16
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Basement flooring choices


Does it cause fumes when putting it on, or is it safe?
Would I need to wear a mask, etc.?


Thanks for the info.

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Old 01-21-2007, 03:56 PM   #17
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Kryton isn't any more stinky or dangerous than portland cement. Treat it as a cement product with silicates. I wear an N95 mask to keep from breathing in the dust while mixing and when doing the cleanup after it is dry. I also wear eye protection (if you ever had cement get into your eyes with contact lenses...you'll grok this concept REAL fast) and gloves since cement products are irritants. Always check the MSDS with any product before using it. You also need to be careful with it around glass and aluminum...the products have a high PH and can etch glass and aluminum so mask them off and wipe off anything that gets on them with warm water.
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Old 01-21-2007, 09:00 PM   #18
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Thanks for the information.

I assume I can use it on concrete cement block walls to plug any holes that water come in?

I am presently putting hydraulic cement. But this product sounds better.
Am I right?


Should I attempt to use it?
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Old 01-21-2007, 09:59 PM   #19
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There are number of products in the line offered by Krytron.

They offer one for cracks that appears to be a branded hydraulic cement. Hydraulic cement has been used for years before the origin of the Kryton organization.

Other products are coatings for surfaces and not for plugging cracks. They may not resist hydraulic pressure if you could have that condition to a water build-up in coating. Because of the nature of the coating, paints cannot be applied, while for others, covering with oil or water based paints is not recommended. If the branded hydraulic cement does not contain silcones, etc., it can be painted.

Take a close look at the various products and the technical data sheets for uses, properties and other information.

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Old 01-22-2007, 08:16 AM   #20
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Thanks for the information.
I will look into it.
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Old 01-22-2007, 12:08 PM   #21
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Difference with the Kryton "hydraulic cement" is the way the product works and interacts with the concrete. It makes the surrounding concrete stonger and waterproofs it. Also, plugging holes in a wall with hydraulic cement often leads to the water coming out in another spot. Kryton has a system to seal and strenghen the entire structure. It is interesting stuff and it works.

As for their products not resisting Hydraulic pressure...are you kidding? Not all their products are water resistant rated but look at the published specs for the ones that are! Krystol T1 and T2 are rated at 150 lb head...the heavier duty products are rated at more than 1100 ft head vertical water column resistance. That is way more than you'll find on pretty much ANY residential house unless your house happens to be built at the base of dam. Take a look at it on their website.

Painting wise...I've never painted it...don't know what Kryton says about that but I'll grant you the finished product isn't pretty if you use the full slurry treatment. All the uses we've had are for concrete walls that are then covered with structure and drywall to make a finished basement.

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Old 01-22-2007, 02:23 PM   #22
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Moldbuster -

I just went to the Kryton site and read the information from the technical data sheets. You never gave any indication of which specific products you were referring to. There are a number of products and not all act as you stated.

It is obvoius that plugging the crack will eliminate the entry of water where you treat the crack. That is why cracks are repaired and not just spots. The pressure still exists, but that is adequate for intermitant conditions that are common in basements. Hydraulic cement is still a standard repair material for engineered structures.

You mentioned no odor, but some of the "wall coating systems" is flammable as opposed to the companion product that is water based. Is this somewhat similar to the Drylok(sp?) products?

In general, the products sound very much like several products sold under different names in the 1960's and 70's (Zypex, etc.) that always referred to a magic crystaline growth that seals everything.

If you read the data sheets, you will clearly find the reference to restrictions or eliminations of painting the product. I assume this is due to silicone compounds that prevent the coating of silcone-based waterproofing compounds. Other materials can be applied after the material has weathered and the efects are minimized.

I have been involved is basement construction for 40 years and have been active in setting domestic and international codes and product standards, so I have seen a few different products.

Coatings are just "band-aid" treatments and not long term solutions.

The only real way to waterproof a basement is to use drain tile below the level of the floor to remove the water and reduce the soil pressures on the walls and the pressures under the floor. This solves the problem, rather than to minimize the effects. It also provides a true structural improvement and greater longevity for a home.
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Old 01-22-2007, 03:04 PM   #23
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The ones I've used are the Krystol T-1/T-2, Bari-Kote, and Krystol Plug. Yes, not all of their products are true waterproofing products...but those particular ones are.

Yes, you are correct...the best way to do it is to do proper construction techniques. But...

Even with proper building techniques, you can have leakage issues. Things happen during construction and even with a weeping tile system and a membrane...water can get in. We just did a hillside home here in Bellingham recently that is a good example. The area has large amount of springs and underground rivers...there is a lake above the development. There is a LOT of water in the area. When they cut the road thru the development and paved it, a spring broke thru the road and was gushing out...needless to say, it is wet. This particular house had a full weeping tile system installed and a spray on membrane. It is a 4 story home with several levels below grade with a 20' concrete wall section. Even with all the other drainage techniques they tried, It was still weeping in about 15 different places on the wall. To dig the entire thing up and re-do it would have been extremely cost prohibitive. We put Krystol plugs and a T1/T2 slurry coating on the entire wall and the floor...6 months later after a near record breaking wet season here is it dry as a bone. That, by the way, is the key. Waterproof the entire wall...patches are a bandaid and water will always try to find another way thru. I have several other homes in the area we have done or are going to do, all with the same problems. The builders tried just about everything including Drylok, and Kryton is the only thing that actually worked. The company has been around here in the Pacific Northwest for 30 plus years and they have projects all over the world. I talked to a number of concrete specialists and waterproofing guys in this area when we were looking for wet basement solutions as part of our mold prevention and remediation program. Something that was reasonably cost effective and could be retrofitted without major construction.
To a person, they all led me to this product. Thus far, it has worked every single time...not a single call back. If I was building another house with a below grade space, I'd certainly do a full drainage system and a top notch membrane...but I'd also do a Kryton application. I've treated enough moldy basements to know that water into the house is a bad thing.

Since you do construction, you might want to check out the waterstop joint design products. I talked to several foundation contractors who are using it and they are all pretty impressed. Try a Krystol Plug + T1/T2 system out on a project for yourself if you have a leaking wall and see. I'll bet you will be impressed.

Again, I never bothered to check into painting. All our projects have been for basements and below grade floors that are fully finished or will be fully finished. None of the concrete walls will ever be painted or seen...they are all behind framing and drywall.

Last edited by MoldBuster; 01-22-2007 at 03:11 PM.
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Old 01-27-2007, 02:38 PM   #24
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We carry a flooring that works well in garages and shops that might work for what you're doing
http://www.carguygarage.com/gaflti.html

It's not cheap, but it's nice stuff. Give us a call if you're interested, tell us you're from DIYChatroom.com and we'll work a deal.

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