As I am still in the process of framing my basement, as I look up at the ceiling joists, I am wondering how would I check to see if they are level, so that when I do the drywall it will be relatively straight?
The ceiling joists are the original to the house, which was originally built in 1942. The whole house was gutted and a second floor added but the foundations were left the same and the ceiling joists in the basement are the original ones.
Just wondering if I have to do something to them or if there is a way of checking to see if they are pretty level. (I am not looking for them to be perfect, but something that I will be able to work with).
Use a string line to see how even the bottoms are. That does not mean they are level, but it would tell you if the ceiling wold be flat without strapping.
Flat would mean all the bottoms are in the same plane. Level would mean the ceiling is flat and perpendicular to a vertical or plumb column - Horizontal.
Use what is called a 'dry line'. Attach one end running perpendicular to the joists at one end of your basement renovation area. Attach the other end ...on the opposite side of your starting point. Your string should sit flat against your starting joist and flat against your finishing joist and run TIGHTLY across all the joists in between.
If you want to get it perfectly level, you can use a string level...mounted on your string/line.
If you just want to see how far off each joist is in depth from the other joists, just use the dry line to examine that.
To reiterate. You shouldn't care if they are level. You should care if they are flat, (in the same plane) and only then if you plan to drywall your ceiling. Some variation would be OK as well. I wouldn't worry about differences under 1/4" they will not show once you drywall.
As Brik mentioned earlier, 1/4" is not that significant of a variation. That would not really cause any drastic effects on anything and it is not something that you would notice with your naked eye after drywall and painting...
The 1/2" is more significant, in the sense that it could cause a greater bend in the sheetrock when attached (If that 1/2" is a direct jump in change as opposed to a gradual change) If it is a gradual change, you should be ok.
We learned along time ago that you 'can't straighten a crooked house'. In other words, unless you're specifically going in with the purpose to straighten out floor joists, ceilings and walls structurally...the best course of action is to just make things work and blend with what is there already.
We always attach strapping to the ceiling/floor joists and use this to make up for the any great variance in joist depths.
We just did this last week in a kitchen remodel of an older building...
It is a gradual change in the floor joists.
Starting with an 1/8" and then gradually to 1/2" at the center point.
I have another question, if I may.
The other smaller room that I soon will be framing, has a black pipe running all the way across the joists from one end of the room to the other.
It is approx l inch to l 1/2 inch.
Would I put pieces of wood "strapping" (I think that's what the name of it is?) across, nailing them to the floor joists?
What size pieces would I use?
Or is there something else that I can do to the pipe to avoid this?
yummy_Mummy - That's EXCTLY what I did. I just nailed up some 2x4s, on the bottom of the joists to allow for drywall to not interfere with the pipe. You could also use 2x2s, 2x3 or a ripped in half 2x4. I just used 2x4s because that's what I had.
FYI - That black pipe is a gas line, probably runs to your furnace or kitchen gas range I suspect.
An alternative would be to re-route the pipe some other area, like in a soffit or behind a wall. I would only consider doing this is headroom were an issue. It will cost more $$ and time plus you would need to get up to speed on fitting gas pipe.
You should use a continuous length of 2x4's....all the way down the length of that pipe. I know that I don't have to remind you to be careful about your nail placement around that gas line.
I will be extremely careful with my nails. Safety, is my number one concern. (Screws actually, is what I am using, and I am putting them in by hand, as it is too time consuming
to remove the drill bit, and then put another one in and then remove again, etc.) Have put in over 500 so far.
Hubby said he is sending me for a manicure when I'm done. :laughing:
I will be extremely careful with my nails. Safety, is my number one concern. (Screws actually, is what I am using, and I am putting them in by hand, as it is too time consuming
to remove the drill bit, and then put another one in and then remove again, etc.) Have put in over 500 so far.
Hubby said he is sending me for a manicure when I'm done. :laughing:
You could purchase a pilot hole drill bit with the philip's head bit on the opposite side. We use these for working on decks.
With one of these, you just:
Use the pilot hole drill tip to pre-drill your hole.
Pull up on the release collar located at the base of the tip.
Remove the bit assembly (with the philips bit attached to the other end) - Flip it around and re-insert.
Snap the release collar back down to lock position .... and .....
....you are allset to go....
We have about 5 of these with extra drill tip attachements (that you can replace if you break one)
I do not drill a pilot hole for applications such as we are discussing.
As for the length and spacing of your 2x4s.
You want to use long lengths as AtlanticWBConst. said. If you need longer than you can buy and transport easily you make sure you meet the ends, from one to the next, on a joist so the end is supported. You want to space them apart at 16" on center. That way when you drywall you can hopefully land an edge in the middle of one of your pieces of strapping. Also, make sure you run around the perimeter of the area you are working on too so the drywall is completely supported.
I wish you would have posted on this topic 2 weeks ago. I had your exact situation and I could have taken pictures. I am now in painting phase. My toughest problem now is deciding on colors!
Actually, Y.M. is trying to do this on a budget, she doesn't have the cash reserves to purchase or rent a nailgun. She is attaching her lumber with screws. As you know, it can be difficult to drill in longer screws, especially if the attachment areas are of poor lumber (Hard, notty rings, etc.) This can be a little more difficult for the average DIYer and can be made easier by pre-drilling pilot holes....
(I for one, as well as several of our workers, have managed to put pressure on a screw when attempting to drive it into hard lumber..... and have had the 'pleasure' of the bit 'sliding or moving' off of the screw head and SLAMMING into the thumb knuckle and ripping a nice chunk of skin off because the screw, itself, hit a tough spot on the wood)
You are right Atlantic, I'm trying to do this on a budget.
I would not mind purchasing all these tools but I think that they would get limited use, and not worth the investment.
It is time consuming what I am doing, but I find it really easy to drill a nice pilot hole, and then insert the screws.
I really don't mind at all.
I do not have any time constraints, so I am not necessarily in any real hurry.
I don't know anyone who has any tools, (especially women).
Though in my area, there are a lot of homes being torn down, and rebuilt, so there is a lot of construction going on.
But also, whenever I do ask someone, (usually a male), I get this double look and they think that I really don't know what I am talking about.
And most of them (male) think that I should not be doing this.
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