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Old 03-04-2010, 03:32 PM   #1
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bad sagging floor


hello, newby here.- And new to any house repairs.-My new wifes house i now live in is in bad need of repairs, -first i want to level the sagging floor in the downstairs. [very bad] i didnt have a very long levil ,but my best guess is it has 1 to 2 inch sag.- heres what i was going to do, add, a 4x4 beam in basement to span across most of the joist and SLOWLY, over time jack it up,, but i have the problem of all the furness and cold air ducting is in the way, and i can only fit about a, 2x4 across the joists.--Would joining mayby 3, ?? 2x4 together be anough, ???? And also i cant go as far across as i want as furness is in the way.- I can get approx three quarters of the way across from one wall to the other. again im a newby, HELP. P.S. Floor is so bad that if you jump at one end of room, everything at other end shakes.-- There is a 6x6 beam in celler that her brother jacked up already , and it looks like he must of went about a inch and a half to get level in living room., and i need to raise between that and back end of house.-- sorry for long post guys. p.s. floor joist are only 2x6.

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Old 03-04-2010, 05:07 PM   #2
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bad sagging floor


You need to post some pictures, maybe a diagram to help us understand your situation. Before you jack up a joist, you need to formulate a plan to hold the jacked joist in the proper position, else it will simply settle back down. Before you do anything, you need to determine if the joists are adequately sized, this will require a scaled diagram and review in an allowable span table, or else engineering computations.

The apparent bounciness of the floor suggests that your joists may be undersized, after you do the measurements and computation you will know for sure. If the joists are undersized, options may include sistering new joists onto the old, installation of intermediate supports, installation of blocking between joists, or addition of wood onto the bottom of the existing joists. The right option depends on the geometry and loading of your particular framing.

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Old 03-04-2010, 05:21 PM   #3
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bad sagging floor


How long are the joists in question ?
Measurements are needed
Cellar - is that a stand-up basement or crawl space underneath ?
Where are you located ?

You want to use 2x4's as a beam.. ? Or ?

A picture or rough drawing would help
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Old 03-04-2010, 05:25 PM   #4
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bad sagging floor


I think he was saying he only had enough room for a 2X4 across the joist (like a beam?) due to ducts etc. I think he was hoping to use this to jack up the sagging joists.
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Last edited by drtbk4ever; 03-04-2010 at 05:28 PM.
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Old 03-04-2010, 06:52 PM   #5
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Quote:
and i need to raise between that and back end of house.--
Ayuh,..... Due to your restrictions to access,... Something to think about,....

For the same reasons a tiny rivet can hold an airplane together,...
Several posts can due the job of long beams,+ less posts....
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Old 03-04-2010, 07:25 PM   #6
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bad sagging floor


thanks guys, ill try to get some pics, and YES,[DRTBK 4ever], was right, -I only have enough room for a 2x4 to fit up against joist,- as heating, and piping, and furness is all in the way.-- Also it is a stand up [barely] basement.- Im also located in upstate N.Y. -- Ill try to get pic;s tonight

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Old 03-05-2010, 10:18 AM   #7
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yes thats exactly what i meant about 2x4 up againts joists to raise the sagging floor, as i have room too add 3 together or possably 4, and jack up them to level,-- but was unsure if this is waste of time and money

Last edited by carl sheffield; 03-05-2010 at 10:20 AM.
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Old 03-06-2010, 01:35 PM   #8
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bad sagging floor


here's the pics of my basement, -cowbarn, lol.-- house runs the long way of east to west and the floor joist are the same.- As you can see in pic's there is one major support that runs north to south that is already jacked up,- [good ] that is almst in middle of house,- but i need to jack up from there to the east wall,-at about mid point. but you can see lots of plumbing and gas lines ,and heat duct in the way.- There is pics of heat duct, with furness near by, and that is where i need to jack up, - Its between heat duct and old post support on small 2x6 joist.- I Only have room to sqeeze 2 - 2x4 in there, but if i do this i could then remove old steel suppot at this point and add another 2x4 .-- wondering if this is enough ?? -p.s. as i stated earlier,, joist run east to west,, And to go Across joist i can barely go three quarters of the way, with support,, but i guess it would be better than it is now.---Any suggestions would be great guys, and i hope pic's help, and im clear of where i need to jack.------- pic # 3 and 4 shows where i need to sqeeze in and raise the floor joist, but only 2- 2x4;s will [fit for now] and pic 5 shows i can only go to joist that is near heat duct hanger, which is only about 3 quarters of the way across flooring, from the south side opposit wall

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Old 03-06-2010, 01:43 PM   #9
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heres the pic i hope of basement,, cant get the to post
Attached Thumbnails
bad  sagging floor-pics-my-basement-002.jpg   bad  sagging floor-pics-my-basement-003.jpg   bad  sagging floor-pics-my-basement-015.jpg   bad  sagging floor-pics-my-basement-014.jpg   bad  sagging floor-pics-my-basement-010.jpg  

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Old 03-06-2010, 03:24 PM   #10
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bad sagging floor


Carl,

I hope you have learn a lesson here..

Check out your next wifes house before you get married.

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Old 03-06-2010, 04:58 PM   #11
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thanks big bob, but looking for possable help
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Old 03-06-2010, 09:00 PM   #12
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As mentioned before, what is your span? How far between supports for the 2x6 joists?

You are missing some vital framing...... the ledger 2x, continuous under the joists, filling in the notch at the bottoms. A hanger by Simpson could substitute, http://www.strongtie.com/products/co...s_rough-df.asp , but the span is important.......

Be safe, Gary
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Old 03-07-2010, 08:40 AM   #13
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bad sagging floor


thanks GBR , ill measure that span today and let you know.-As for the hangers, that is one thing i was planing on doing, and also adding ?? 2x8 horizontaly, ?? between joist also for support.-Im hoping after i measure the span, i can get away with putting in a few 2x4 at sag ,,with post.-Very old house and who ever built it should of stuck to building cow barns. Any pic's i can post cant show how really bad. it is . - p.s. From out side the house it looks like its just sitting on a old stone wall you would see in the woods.--- need to do a mortor job this summer
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Old 03-07-2010, 09:22 AM   #14
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Oi! And I thought my crawlspace was messy!

Well, here's my DIY two-bits.
If I were you I'd consider cutting and relocating all of the electrical and plumbing, since they're in the way and if they aren't in the way theyre still near your work area and posing a safety hazard. I would remove all of this from it's many holes in the beams and one by one add length to each strand of wire or length of pipe and attach it to the walls, about 1 or 2 feet below the ceiling. You can plan to put it all back when you're done if you'd like.

I'm working on my bathroom, now, and I've relocated all live wires and plumbing lines around the outside of my work area. It's purely a shock hazard having live wires near powertools and you and plumbing, well, you don't want to have a story to tell if you rupture a pipe line under an already stressed and sagging floor.

The duct work has to go one way or another - I see two options.
One is to remove it all and replace it with flexi-duct that come pre-insulated. . . you can add more or less length to the lines as you stretch it out of the box to allow for work-access, or you can run it up the walls instead to free up the center of the floor work area.

The other idea is to drop the duct work about 2'.
To do that I'd get some big eye-hooks, attach them above the duct work on the beams and run ropes under the duct - up through the eye-hooks. Then cut the vertical duct work connections and use the ropes to slowly lower it about two feet. Rebuild the vertical areas with new duct work sheeting and resupport the duct work.

This, then, would free up access in your entire work-area and allow you to do whatever necessary to relax the sag with an unobstructed - however still awkward access because of the duct work - and a far more safer work environment.
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Last edited by Snav; 03-07-2010 at 09:27 AM.
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Old 03-07-2010, 09:39 AM   #15
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yes, I measured the span on joist and it's about 11 feet both ways from wall to the center support beam that is in center of house,and as you can see in pic that my wifes brother already jacked up. --And on all that plumbing and duct work, yuk, hoping i could get around it

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