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Old 02-15-2011, 10:03 AM   #16
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sorry, i mispoke on the mastic, thin set it best....but I did use 3/16" and did exactly fungkus photos show. It worked great for me, and having this built up allowed me to continue past the sides of the tub to the floor with no problems what so ever.

I did this over two years ago, and havent had a single problem with the tilework, or any other part of the remodel.

Putting a ledger board under the tub is a good idea, but screwing it to the wall is just fine. It's not going to move, the important part is the mounting to the floor in the front part. The physics of the tub want to cause this to push towards you...and therefore, into the wall behind...hence holding it in place. I first only mounted mine to the floor and then stepped in it, tried to wiggle it, pull on it, etc...there was no way that was moving. And regarding the cracking and chipping..if you use the right drill bit, and don't hammer on it, you should have no problem drilling through the tub.

and I gotta agree with Steel toes, nailing through a moisturebarrior is senseless.

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Old 02-15-2011, 11:25 AM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SteelToes View Post
Georgia Pacific a manufacturer of DensShield recommends to leave a 1/8" gap between DensShield and the tub deck.
Please see attached link:

http://www.gp.com/build/product.aspx?pid=4684
Yes, this is not an air space, it's a caulking gap.
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Old 02-15-2011, 11:31 AM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fungku View Post
Yes, this is not an air space, it's a caulking gap.
Correct.
But it overlaps the lip of the tub.
Plase visit following link for more info on the air gap.


http://www.homeenergy.org/archive/he...98/980310.html
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Old 02-15-2011, 01:41 PM   #19
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Originally Posted by SteelToes View Post
Correct.
But it overlaps the lip of the tub.
do it that way and it's very difficult to have continuous waterproofing.

Quote:
Plase visit following link for more info on the air gap.


http://www.homeenergy.org/archive/he...98/980310.html
There's no point in that if you do your tile installation properly and waterproof behind the tiles.

if you use a membrane like kerdi it is a vapour barrier so there is no diffusion in or out.
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Old 02-15-2011, 05:24 PM   #20
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Originally Posted by Bud Cline View Post
Holy crap this is utterly amazing to me! All of this advice and most of it dangerous.

Whatever you do don't try to drill that tub lip and never never never try to lap that lip with a nail swinging a hammer that close to the tub. That is an inexpensive steel tub with inexpensive enamel baked on to the surface and it will spall-off huge chunks of enamel if it is impacted or stressed in any way.

Fasten a ledger board to the studs. Gob some construction adhesive on the floor and on the top side of the ledgers. Slide the tub in place and leave it alone until tomorrow.

After the adhesive has had over night to dry you can then get in the tub to fasten the wallboard to the studs. You can do one of two things at the lip. You can back-cut the wallboard slightly so that it will lap the lip or you can stop the wallboard just above the lip and caulk that juncture. The wallboard is now wider than the lip and overhangs the lip slightly. Now you can install the tile so that it covers the gap between the wallboard and the tub rim. The tile is then caulked to the tub.

You WILL NOT have 3/16" of mastic behind the tile that is plain ridiculous. At most using the proper trowel you will only have about 1/6" to 3/32". But listen up !!!! Mastic is the worst adhesive you could use if this tub also has a shower. Modified thinset mortar NOT PREMIXED should be used to install the tile.

The walls have stud cavities for drying if needed but no moisture will get to the stud cavities if a moisture barrier is used over the studs as it should be. Nailing firring over the moisture barrier will only make holes in the moisture barrier, that idea is ludicrous. You won't find that technique in any of the tile industries methods and procedures.

If you were to use a waterproof wallboard such as Denshield you wouldn't need a moisture barrier to begin with and wicking water wouldn't ever be an issue in any area.

You should also verify any and all information you receive on these forums before you jump on to any one's wagon and ride along with their misgivings.

SORRY - I just couldn't witness any more of this insanity without speaking out.
Thank you thank you thank you! You beat me to it! Sometimes a little knowledge is dangerous.
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Old 02-15-2011, 05:31 PM   #21
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That drawing shows the backer overlapping the flange----That would lead to a curved bottom to the backer

Bottom row of tile would hump out--what would that look like as the tile and caps continue along the tub--down to the floor?.

Works in that drawing--would be an installation failure in the real world.
I always notch my studs to let in the tub/shower flush to the studs. That leaves a bigger space on one end of the tub area which I fir out.
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Old 02-15-2011, 05:44 PM   #22
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I wouldnt do that as the tub needs a bit of room to expand and contract.
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Old 02-15-2011, 05:49 PM   #23
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I wouldnt do that as the tub needs a bit of room to expand and contract.
I'm sure that's a valid point, but I've been doing it for years without a problem. Nothing worse than seeing the bottom row of tiles angled in on a new bathroom and this method is no different than the way the tub is normally attached
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Old 02-15-2011, 05:57 PM   #24
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I wouldnt do that as the tub needs a bit of room to expand and contract.
You said earlier to screw it to the studs?

How is his method worse than yours?
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Old 02-15-2011, 06:10 PM   #25
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kathyll I hope your questions have been answered.

Please heed my warning above using some of the advice you are getting here. Things are once again getting out of hand.
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Old 02-15-2011, 06:39 PM   #26
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Just to follow up with the pics I posted earlier.

You could come back in 30 years and look behind this wall and there won't be any problems.








Last edited by fungku; 02-15-2011 at 06:55 PM.
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Old 02-15-2011, 08:35 PM   #27
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Kathy--I sure hope you can sort out the advice from the pros and the advice from the theoretical arm chair 'experts with no real experience---

This thread has run its course and will be closed---Mike---

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