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Old 06-20-2012, 01:01 PM   #16
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the only RIGHT WAY to do it is remove all soffit material unless its gable end. Shove insulation baffles in from bottom or install from attic, whichever is easier. Reinstall NEW soffit covering with continuous venting built in. first.

Second,,,put additional insulation in attic to r-50 value leaving what you have now,,,blow cellulose, cheap and easy. NO shortcuts to doing it right.

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Old 06-20-2012, 07:03 PM   #17
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Just as an overkill solution, a builder I framed for put a whole house fan in. He said it should have been a little smaller though. If it was on when he was doing paperwork on the kitchen table and a window was open, some of his papers would migrate partway up the stairs.
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Old 06-20-2012, 09:52 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Duckweather
Just as an overkill solution, a builder I framed for put a whole house fan in. He said it should have been a little smaller though. If it was on when he was doing paperwork on the kitchen table and a window was open, some of his papers would migrate partway up the stairs.
That's awesome
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Old 06-20-2012, 10:09 PM   #19
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Originally Posted by Knucklez View Post
it must basically work somehow to survive this many years.. so maybe the air flow in the attic is not the problem. i do have soffits though so i can add venting there if needed.

i think the air flow is good because i put my hand over the 2 vents i have on 2nd floor (wish there were more) and the flow is decent. i would say 50% the power i feel when same test but on the first floor of house. but still there is a MAJOR temp difference between 1st and 2nd floor. feels like 10 degrees or more, never measured. i think it is from heat from attic .. just a guess. like a heated ceiling. with the old insulation maybe it is time to upgrade?

i think adding some duct boosting is a great idea!! need one that auto turns on when air flow is detected (only needed in summer time to help air conditioning).

there is no cold air return on second floor.. that's what the stairs are for (cold air return is "near" bottom of stairs on main floor)
Based on what you've written so far, I assume you have central A/C, and that you leave the fan switched to "auto". If so, try leaving your fan switched "on" instead of auto (just the fan, not the compressor). It may take a day or two to feel the difference, but you're upper/lower floors and warmer/cooler rooms of the house should level out a bit by recirculating the air regularly instead of just blowing air when the compressor is running. In the interest of not typing a complete book on this, I'll say there are some variables that will make this not work, but just try it for a few days- it costs very little and usually does help...
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Old 06-26-2012, 08:40 PM   #20
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don't want to hijack a thread. but puck you are right, i have been doing this and it works decent. i think my problem is more though, so some day when i actually try to solve this problem i may do some research and then discuss in a new thread as needed. thx for all the help.
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Old 06-26-2012, 11:46 PM   #21
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don't want to hijack a thread. but puck you are right, i have been doing this and it works decent. i think my problem is more though, so some day when i actually try to solve this problem i may do some research and then discuss in a new thread as needed. thx for all the help.
No worries on the hijack- you have the same problem so same ideas could apply to anyone searching this thread. You say in your case, there's no soffit and only two roof vents... Running house circulation fan helps, so you're making some progress. I think you're correct in always assuming more insulation in the attic can always help. You could simply add in more fiberglass batts to what is already there. Or (easier, and maybe cheaper) you could add in the thinner, reflective foil-type insulation. If you have fiberglass already on the floor of attic, lay the reflective insulation right on top of the fiberglass batts. You do have to use the perforated version to avoid moisture problems, and you simply lay it in opposite direction to current batts. This makes a considerable difference, because it not only increases the R-value, but you get the reflective properties of the foil, bouncing conditioned air back into the house, and heat (or cold in winter) back up away from the conditioned space.

I think you definitely should look into more attic ventilation. Maybe more roof vents is the easy answer; or consider a couple gable vents; or gable vents with a gable fan in one of them; and/or a powered attic fan (i.e., the kind that looks like a small flying saucer on the roof). Some people don't like powered attic fans, so research on your own and think it over. Keep in mind of course that depending on where your roof vents are currently, powered vents may not work very well, i.e. a fan only two feet away from a roof vent will (theoretically) only ventilate that two feet of air space..

Lastly, a temporary fix could be a cheap 5,000 btu window AC in your bedroom on the hotter 2nd floor.

Good luck!
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Old 06-27-2012, 08:25 AM   #22
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If I might piggyback onto this thread, I have a house with a gable roof. When I bought it, it had soffit vents all the way along both front and back, and gable vents on each end. I recently had the roof replaced, and the roofers installed a ridge vent. For proper airflow function, do I want to seal the gable vents, or leave them be? TIA!
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Old 06-27-2012, 08:33 AM   #23
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I would seal the gables, now that you have the ridge. If you don't, the gables may pull in air, and short circuit the soffits for airflow.
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Old 06-29-2012, 12:55 AM   #24
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And they may not....http://www.finehomebuilding.com/desi...ble-vents.aspx

http://en.allexperts.com/q/Roofing-1...able-Vents.htm

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Old 06-29-2012, 09:56 AM   #25
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I'm gonna tear my hair out!
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Old 06-29-2012, 07:18 PM   #26
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I agree with the article. While the engineering design is to have the cool air entering the soffit and exiting the ridge, the presence of gable vents isn't going to hurt anything. Maybe they make the soffit venting less efficient, but they don't make the entire attic as a whole less efficient. I think you'll simply have more of an overall volume of air flowing through attic, even if less of that volume originates from the soffit. Hope this makes sense and somehow helps....
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Old 06-29-2012, 11:42 PM   #27
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I've told this story many times and I'll tell it again.

I went to buy some soffit material from Rollex and I ordered the fully vented panels. This means that the four "panels" to each panel all have slits cut in them, not just half of them.

The guy told me this wasn't necessary because although I could get more air in the attic this way, there was no way for it all to get back out.

I explained to him that he'd never been on the leeward side of a building up by the soffit when the wind was blowing.

The wind blows often here, and if you are downwind of it on a warm day, installing soffit for example, it feels like you are standing in front of a furnace.

So, although the additional inflow can't escape out the ridge, it will sure cross the whole attic and be expelled out the other side. Obviously this works best with a hip roof because you never know which direction the wind will come from.

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