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Old 01-26-2011, 09:38 PM   #16
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Attic Insulation Nightmare


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Originally Posted by GBR in WA View Post
Add joists that bear on 1/2" shims over the existing bearing walls with end rim joists to keep them from rotating if using as an access walkway.

Gary
Gary - Can you elaborate? I'm not sure I understand this.

I installed that flex pipe because I did have condenation leak back in to the BR. I think I can stretch the flex to the wall and just ditch the solid pipe. So you think I need to insulate it? I just created a reverse trap with the flex to keep any condensation from leaking back but I guess no condensation would be better.

I agree on the flashing around the chimney and flu, trouble is it's currently surrounded by vermiculite and I didn't want to disturb that if I didn't have to.
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Old 01-26-2011, 09:44 PM   #17
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Attic Insulation Nightmare


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You have a lot more floorboards up there than you really need. I addded 18" of insulation to my attic last fall. ( Over top of loose fill ) I put in a raised walkway along the center of the attic, perhaps 18" wide. The walkway was the easiest part of the project, and my attic was in far better (neater) shape than yours. It would be nice to get rid of all that old stuff, but I wonder if its worth the trouble.
I was thinking the same thing. The attic was this way when I bought the house. The previous owner did alot of wierd things, some overkill some rather creative. I would defintely consider raising and making the walk smaller as you suggested. How did you raise your joists? Any pics? Thanks for your response and tips. Yeah, ripping it all out would be a nightmare for sure. A vac would be the only way for me.
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Old 01-26-2011, 10:25 PM   #18
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Attic Insulation Nightmare


A dust collector works great on removing insulation. When we do a remodel this is the first thing to tackle and I found years ago that a dust collector with a 4 in hose to suck and the blower shooting into a dumpster or my dump trailer is the way to go. Fast and no clogs.
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Old 01-26-2011, 11:23 PM   #19
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Attic Insulation Nightmare


I would add new joists for storage, etc. and install them so after done there is no pressure on the existing old joists to give nail pops, cracks, by bearing the ends on the walls below, on the existing joists with a small strip of ply to give room for deflection at the center while walking. That way the ceiling is isolated from storage/person walking above.

At the fan, add a 1' or so vertical straight pipe (after elbow) to start your downward slope of straight pipe after the elbow for condensation to run out at the termination hood in the gable. So any moisture will not drip back into room. Tape all joints, even individual elbow ones, insulate and plastic v.b. Seal all holes around the fan, better yet, put a box around it, pp.36; http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&sourc...O842EQ&cad=rja

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Old 01-26-2011, 11:54 PM   #20
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Attic Insulation Nightmare


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Originally Posted by GBR in WA View Post
I would add new joists for storage, etc. and install them so after done there is no pressure on the existing old joists to give nail pops, cracks, by bearing the ends on the walls below, on the existing joists with a small strip of ply to give room for deflection at the center while walking. That way the ceiling is isolated from storage/person walking above.

At the fan, add a 1' or so vertical straight pipe (after elbow) to start your downward slope of straight pipe after the elbow for condensation to run out at the termination hood in the gable. So any moisture will not drip back into room. Tape all joints, even individual elbow ones, insulate and plastic v.b. Seal all holes around the fan, better yet, put a box around it, pp.36; http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&sourc...O842EQ&cad=rja

Gary
How in the world are you going to put in new ceiling joist without opening up the entire ceiling? Are you sure the existing structure can actually support the storage that would be added? Id be cautious on this one.
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Old 01-27-2011, 04:12 AM   #21
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I like SPS's idea of simply creating a raised walkway down the center, perpendicular to the current joists. Use 2x4's or 2x6's depending on how deep you need to go and blowing in over the old.
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Old 01-27-2011, 03:41 PM   #22
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How in the world are you going to put in new ceiling joist without opening up the entire ceiling? Are you sure the existing structure can actually support the storage that would be added? Id be cautious on this one.
I still don't think I'm getting the idea that Gary is suggesting. Anyhow, if I were to raise the joists it would only be a more narrow walkway. This would be good for a few reasons.
  1. More insulation thickness/R value
  2. A platform to walk on
  3. A place for storage
I don't really plan to store much of anything up there but I would like the option. Whatever I do store won't be of any significant weight (Xmas stuff etc...). Plus if I do this I will most likely replace all of the flooring up there with plywoood and probably narrow the walkway a bit. So the weight should be reduced pretty significantly.
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Old 01-27-2011, 03:55 PM   #23
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I like SPS's idea of simply creating a raised walkway down the center, perpendicular to the current joists. Use 2x4's or 2x6's depending on how deep you need to go and blowing in over the old.
I like that idea as well. I would be raising the joists by running 2x4s parallel with the joists, correct? Would I reinforce those 2x4s by running another 2x4 perpendicular on each side, sort of like a wall frame but laying down? I feel like it wouldn't be very strong otherwise. This PDF (or see attached) shows a diagram on extending the joists but if I don't box it out it seems like it would be unstable... They should really make something that's meant for this type of thing but if they did it would probably be expensive and I would probably say "I can make that myself"..haha

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Old 01-27-2011, 04:52 PM   #24
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Attic Insulation Nightmare


This is how I did my walkway. I had some spare 1 x 3's and 2 x 12's, so that is what I made my risers out of. Nice part was that I could make all the risers in my basement beforehand. The 1 x 3 to the 2 x 12 is nails plus some PL-Premium. Probably lots of other ways to do it too. Oh, and it was actually just 11 inches of insulation I added. It must have just felt like 18 inches when I was trying to get the bales through the attic hatch. I have the original loose fill under there too, but you can't see it anymore.
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Last edited by SPS-1; 01-27-2011 at 04:55 PM.
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Old 01-27-2011, 05:09 PM   #25
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Wow SPS, you literally just have a plank up there. Looks good though. What kind of insulation is that? It almost looks like that recycle denim insulation.
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Old 01-27-2011, 05:13 PM   #26
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Post #23 is similar to what I tried to explain. The new joists would be bearing on ply pieces directly on the old joists only over bearing walls. Rather than toenail the new j. to the old, it would be spanning from ply to ply. No pressure would be on the middles of the old ones as they are elevated above them by 1/2" ply, only at the ends. This was for storage mainly, with adding any extra weight to the old joists.

Post #24 would work but add some ply on one side of the blocks for tip-over shear resistance. Nice job!

Gary
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Old 01-27-2011, 05:28 PM   #27
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Thank you. That is Rockwool batts. Two layers of R22. It looks wavy in the photo, but actually its very flat. What I don't like about the loose fill , is that if you end up going up in your attic a few times, the loose fill ends up all over. The blown in stuff is more economical though.
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Old 01-27-2011, 06:25 PM   #28
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To keep the gangplank in post 24 from sliding lengthwise and the risers tipping over like dominoes --- I would say that two 1x12's (could be 1x6's for 2x6 risers or 1/2 inch plywood of like size), 36* inches long, spanning any three risers on 16 inch centers each, horizontally on edge one on each side of the risers, will be sufficient. Use three screws per riser to hold these pieces on. For 2x4 risers use 52* inch 1x4's namely spanning 4 risers each, two screws as far apart as possible at each riser.

* Extends a little past the riser to reduce the chance of splitting with the screws tearing out.
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Last edited by AllanJ; 01-27-2011 at 06:39 PM.
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Old 01-28-2011, 01:15 PM   #29
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Great information guys and thanks for sharing the diagrams about adding some planks up there. Got my mind spinning now or adding some planking.

musekmkr - I had HD out for a quote, they wanted $1,300 for approx 600sq feet. They were simply going to blow over what I already have and just cover it, nothing more. That was way over priced IMO and I can certainly do that myself w/ renting a machine and material for a few hundred bucks.

I know I'll be kicking myself if I just blow over top of everything next time I need to work up there. It's just such a nightmare of a job I almost want to just take this easy way out. As suggested, I think I'll try and remove the kraft paper from the batts up there and blow on top. Maybe if I add some planking it will be so hard once the loose crap is blown in. Good luck to you as well...

P.S. That rockwool looks like it's easy to move around vs. batts or blow in. Almost looks like hay bails.

Last edited by cbaur88; 01-28-2011 at 01:20 PM.
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Old 01-28-2011, 01:24 PM   #30
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Speaking of rock wool, the stuff in this photo looks like exactly what I have up there now between my joists. It's loose and looks identical. My home was build prob in the late 60's early 70's I'd say is a good guess.
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