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Old 12-28-2006, 03:25 PM   #1
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Attaching metal framing to lumber framing?

I am working on a basement project, and am using metal framing on the perimeter walls. I plan to use 2x4 construction lumber for the interior partition walls. I will be constructing a few built in features, as well as some shelving and several doors, so all of the custom cutting seems much easier with lumber.

I will also be using Dricore flooring in the finished areas.

Is there any special trick for tying the lumber frame walls to the metal frame ones? Do I just square and flush the sole plates and headers, screw them together, and place the necessary studs for attaching drywall? Is there something more than that to do to make sure everything is rigid?

Thanks for any help!


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Old 12-28-2006, 06:37 PM   #2
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The fact is that metal framing is designed primarily for commercial use. 5/8" sheetrock is then attached to it, to give it it's strength.

When we do any kind of interior steel framing, we allow spaces of about 3/4" between intersecting perpendicular walls. This allows the 5/8" sheetrock sheets to 'pass/slide' thru, thus 'interlocking' the walls to each other. The corner steel stud is then attached to the pass thru sheetrock from the 'inside' of the 'unsheetrocked' perpendicular stud wall. (If this sounds complex or confusing: It's one of the reasons why I discourage DIYers from using steel framing in their remodeling, and suggest using wood.)

By using 5/8" sheetrock, the walls also gain the added ridgidity that they need. Obviously, 5/8" sheetrock is: Harder to cut, Heavier and more difficult to install, and costs more than 1/2" sheetrock = points to consider.
Using 1/2" sheetrock will gain some ridgidity with steel.... But, you will not have the same 'solid' ridgidity that 5/8" sheetrock creates when attached to properly framed steel members with the standard interlocking methods.

As far as tying in wood members to steel: Simply use 1 1/4" or longer drywall screws. Always screw from the metal side INTO the wood.
However, just remember that if your corner studs are not locked into place (like with a California corner in wood framing)....then you will have flexing and cracking in your drywall corners (This can be avoided by using the 'pass thru' design and method while steel framing and drywalling.


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Last edited by AtlanticWBConst.; 12-28-2006 at 06:54 PM.
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Old 12-28-2006, 08:28 PM   #3
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I am presently framing my basement and I listened to Atlantics suggestion of not going with metal framing. I went with 2X4 studs.

I really like working with the wood framing.
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