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-   -   Attaching 40-in. flat TV to metal studs? (http://www.diychatroom.com/f19/attaching-40-flat-tv-metal-studs-88300/)

billythefish 12-01-2010 01:33 PM

Attaching 40-in. flat TV to metal studs?
 
I recently bought a 40-in. flat screen TV, only to find I have metal studs spaced 24-inches apart in my wall. The TV itself only weighs about 29 lbs. (the wall mount about 3-4 lbs.), but am unsure whether it is a smart idea to bolt the mount into the metal studs. It's an interior wall and the studs look lightweight, but I'm thinking if a use a two toggle bolts in each stud that should do the trick. Has anybody done this or think it's a bad idea?

VersaBar 12-01-2010 01:36 PM

Toggle bolts work perfectly with metal studs, even when they're light gauge.

I would use a 5/8" holesaw (3/4" will work too, but I like keeping the hole as small as possible) to drill thru the drywall and metal stud in one clean shot. Lay it out so that you drill right thru the middle of the stud. Now use 1/4"-20 toggle bolts or Togglers, (2) per stud as you mentioned.

I do this often in commercial applications in which metal studs are almost always used. Toggle bolts used in drywall are limited by the weight that it would take to pull the butterfly thru the drywall. But when you drill thru a metal stud, you now have a nice big 8 foot long stud to use as a washer. It makes for a very strong installation.

billythefish 12-01-2010 02:30 PM

Thanks "Versabar". A few people have told me that with just 30 lbs. of so of weight, using just the drywall with toggles would work. But honestly, I'd feel more secure all around going through the metal studs. I just didn't want to weaken the studs any. And frankly, the fact that the wall mount install guide didn't even mention metal studs (it only gave install instructions for wood studs and concrete walls) it made me hesitate. Thanks for the help, I'll give it a shot.

VersaBar 12-01-2010 02:55 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by billythefish (Post 543685)
Thanks "Versabar". A few people have told me that with just 30 lbs. of so of weight, using just the drywall with toggles would work.

I agree, I think it would work just fine, but you have a better option.
Quote:

I just didn't want to weaken the studs any.
That's why I recommend making as small a hole as possible (5/8" works with 1/4"-20 toggles) and hitting the direct center of the stud.

Good luck!

NASCAR9 12-01-2010 03:02 PM

I think I would make a mounting plate and screw/toggle it to the wall, then mount my bracket to it.

VersaBar 12-01-2010 03:09 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by NASCAR9 (Post 543697)
I think I would make a mounting plate and screw/toggle it to the wall, then mount my bracket to it.

What would be the purpose of using a mounting plate?

NASCAR9 12-01-2010 03:40 PM

The mounting plate would distribute the load across a greater area. I read 'metal studs spaced 24-inches apart', this does not seem too strong to me. The mounting plate would need to span two of the studs. The plate could be 3/4 ply. If it was me, this is what I would do.:thumbup:

VersaBar 12-01-2010 05:35 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by NASCAR9 (Post 543713)
The mounting plate would distribute the load across a greater area. I read 'metal studs spaced 24-inches apart', this does not seem too strong to me. The mounting plate would need to span two of the studs. The plate could be 3/4 ply. If it was me, this is what I would do.:thumbup:

His wall mount is going to span multiple studs, as he mentioned in the first post. An additional mounting plate will be nothing more than an eyesore.

DozerDan 12-01-2010 06:31 PM

Nascar9,

What trailer park do you live in? :censored: Seriously, what you are describing will hold, but it will be very ugly.:furious:

Here's how I would do it.

First, take a sledge hammer and open up the wall. Be careful not to bend the metal studs. Then anchor a solid plate of 3/4 plywood between the two studs. While you're there run electrical, TV cables, speaker wires. Put conduit in, and J-Boxes. Hide everything inside the walls.

Then replace the drywall, and mount your TV bracket anywhere you want to the plywood backer. The entire wall will have to come down before the TV pull off the wall.

Sure it's going to take more time, but do it right the first time. If your lag screws miss the metal studs and pull out, you're buying a new TV.

:wink:

VersaBar 12-01-2010 06:42 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by DozerDan (Post 543821)
Nascar9,

What trailer park do you live in? :censored: Seriously, what you are describing will hold, but it will be very ugly.:furious:

This is very rude for your first post.
Quote:

Here's how I would do it.

First, take a sledge hammer and open up the wall.
Who would use a sledge hammer to open up a wall like this?
Quote:

Be careful not to bend the metal studs. Then anchor a solid plate of 3/4 plywood between the two studs. While you're there run electrical, TV cables, speaker wires. Put conduit in, and J-Boxes. Hide everything inside the walls.

Then replace the drywall, and mount your TV bracket anywhere you want to the plywood backer. The entire wall will have to come down before the TV pull off the wall.

Sure it's going to take more time, but do it right the first time. If your lag screws miss the metal studs and pull out, you're buying a new TV.

:wink:
Why would he do it like this? For what purpose?
Why would you recommend him use lag screws in metal studs?
Why would anyone expect someone to miss the stud? It is incredible easy to drill the drywall and see the metal stud to ensure you are drilling into it. A little bit of effort beforehand to mark the studs out is all it takes, a magnet comes in handy. MUCH easier than using a sledge hammer...

DozerDan 12-01-2010 07:03 PM

VersaBar,

Sorry to upset you. I just gave my opinion.

I ment toggle bolts, when I mentioned Lag bolts, again...sorry.

I sugested a sledge hammer because I didn't know if it was a plaster wall or drywall. I don't care how he opens up the wall. But I would put a sheet of plywood behind the drywall.

If you put a sheet of plywood attached to the studs, then cover it with drywall, you can now attach the mounting bracket to the plywood plate. This is a very strong hold. Sure, it's alot more work than your way. But it will hold this TV or any other TV he might buy in the future.

If you want to take the easy way out, why not just get some of that UGlu they are advetising on TV. It's industrial strength and will hold permanantly. I'm not sugesting this, I don't think it's strong enough. But it would be alot easier than my way or yours for that matter.

VersaBar 12-01-2010 07:07 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by DozerDan (Post 543844)
VersaBar,

Sorry to upset you. I just gave my opinion.

You didn't upset me, you just came off as a rude *#$#*@ when you insulted another member on your first post like you did.
Quote:

I ment toggle bolts, when I mentioned Lag bolts, again...sorry.

I sugested a sledge hammer because I didn't know if it was a plaster wall or drywall. I don't care how he opens up the wall. But I would put a sheet of plywood behind the drywall.

If you put a sheet of plywood attached to the studs, then cover it with drywall, you can now attach the mounting bracket to the plywood plate. This is a very strong hold. Sure, it's alot more work than your way. But it will hold this TV or any other TV he might buy in the future.

If you want to take the easy way out, why not just get some of that UGlu they are advetising on TV. It's industrial strength and will hold permanantly. I'm not sugesting this, I don't think it's strong enough. But it would be alot easier than my way or yours for that matter.
Sure, your way might be stronger, but for his size TV it's completely unnecessary, IMO.

mrgins 12-01-2010 07:14 PM

OK, here's my two cents. I think Nascar9 had a good idea, because the tv bracket itself will have something more solid to grip and the additional metal plate will allow more area to attach sheet metal screws to the studs (I'd use sheet metal screws, plenty of grip and strength there.
DozerDan (sounds like BULLdozer Dan!) you can only install 3/4" plywood BETWEEN the studs, not OVER them if you plan to replace the drywall. It's also overkill.
I also agree with Versbar about your opening comments. People need to feel comfortable asking questions on here. I'm a contractor, and even I ask advice sometimes.

VersaBar 12-01-2010 07:20 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mrgins (Post 543854)
attach sheet metal screws to the studs (I'd use sheet metal screws, plenty of grip and strength there.

I have to completely disagree with that.

The TV bracket mount is a thick, solid sheet of steel. Putting another piece of steel behind it will not make any realistic difference. But installing it with sheet metal screws WILL make it weaker than using toggles, especially if the studs are light gauge like the OP mentioned.

mrgins 12-01-2010 07:30 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by VersaBar (Post 543862)
I have to completely disagree with that.

The TV bracket mount is a thick, solid sheet of steel. Putting another piece of steel behind it will not make any realistic difference. But installing it with sheet metal screws WILL make it weaker than using toggles, especially if the studs are light gauge like the OP mentioned.

The force on the bracket is shear. The metal plate would be thicker than the stud gauge, and the weight would be distributed by the number of screws going thru the plate. Absolutely no problem!


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