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Old 04-15-2008, 09:13 AM   #1
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Attach drywall from behind?


I've just torn apart my bathroom and found some interesting things. It appears that one of the previous owners decided to install 2 medicine cabinets and cut through 3 2x6's in a row and removed them from the wall without adding any additional framing support. So I will be adding some new framing to fix the issue. However in removing all the framing in the past there isn't much securing the drywall anymore in the room adjacent. Is there a good way that I can secure the drywall to the new studs from the backside? To avoid refinishing the adjacent room's wall.
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Old 04-15-2008, 09:26 AM   #2
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Attach drywall from behind?


Ayuh,....

Other than Glue,.......... Nope....

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Old 04-15-2008, 09:36 AM   #3
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Attach drywall from behind?


wow...what a hack job. You could always try construction adhesive but I'd be concerned about the glue not making good contact with the new framing or drywall. I would use polyurethane adhesive foam used by the ICF builders. On the page provided there is one product specifically made for drywall. But from experience, the foam 2 foam, or touch and seal products would work fine.

I used probably 5 cases when I built my ICF home, all the blocks were glued together, and anywhere a hole needed plugged, a quick shot of foam and it was good. Once it's set...it's set for good, you have to either cut or break it apart. I suggest this as a possibility because you could put your framing in place, gently push the drywall away from the framing, squirt the foam in and let the drywall spring back. When the foam is set, it will fill and support any gaps between the framing and drywall.
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Old 04-15-2008, 09:51 AM   #4
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The best thing to do would be to use some fasteners, but drywall adhesive will work just fine for your situation. It comes in big caulk tubes, so you'll need to use a BIG caulk gun or break the tube open and smear a bead on your studs when you install them.

This adhesive is not unlike subfloor adhesive, but is intended for this purpose, and WILL NOT LET GO.
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Old 04-15-2008, 10:13 AM   #5
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Attach drywall from behind?


One other thing to consider about the adhesive and age of the drywall.

I had a 1973 vintage POS house. Nearly every sheet of drywall in the house would give when pushed. When I re-modeled the kitchen, I discovered that the adhesive was still stuck to the framing, but the paper had let loose of the drywall, I suspect the drywall was bad...but what a pain. Assuming the drywall is in good shape...and you can get a good bond, go for it. Check the paper on the exposed DW first.
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Old 04-15-2008, 01:47 PM   #6
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Attach drywall from behind?


Thanks for those tips, I'll see what I can find at the hardware store adhesive wise. What kind of fasteners do you mean?
RippiSkippy:
Yeah, they really did a number on the studs, not a clean job at all. The drywall is 50 yrs old, so I will have to take that into consideration for sure.
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Old 04-15-2008, 02:42 PM   #7
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drywall screws, at worst you would have to fill and possibly re-texture the other side in places...
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Old 04-15-2008, 02:55 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RippySkippy View Post
drywall screws, at worst you would have to fill and possibly re-texture the other side in places...
Ah yes, of course. I thought maybe some other kind of fastener. I think I may just glue for now and when I get to refinishing the walls in the other room I'll see about adding some drywall screws where needed.
Thanks!
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Old 04-15-2008, 04:39 PM   #9
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Attach drywall from behind?


That adhesive will work just fine for you I'm sure...Just be sure to get drywall adhesive. Use about a 1/4" bead. If you had water damage or moldy degraded rock in that wall, I'd take another course.
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Old 04-17-2008, 03:53 PM   #10
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Premium Sub Floor Adhesive would be an advantage vs. regular drywall adhesive.
It Gets Rock Hard and the hold lasts.
Drywall Adhesive gives long working times and is more flexible.
Go Premium and keep it off you cause it only wears off.
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Old 04-18-2008, 03:31 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by darylbrands View Post
Premium Sub Floor Adhesive would be an advantage vs. regular drywall adhesive.
It Gets Rock Hard and the hold lasts.
Drywall Adhesive gives long working times and is more flexible.
Go Premium and keep it off you cause it only wears off.
Which brand/type of Sub Floor adhesive would be the premium ones? (I've not actually shopped for it yet, but references are always good).
I definitely will keep it off me, I have a strong allergy to adhesives, so I'm always very careful around glues, tape, bandaids etc.
Thanks!
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Old 04-18-2008, 05:19 PM   #12
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Attach drywall from behind?


I'm an advocate of buying the right product for the job. There is no way that drywall adhesive will ever let go. It sticks the paper of the rock so hard that there is no way to remove the rock without having to scrape the paper and adhesive off the stud. The long working time is an advantage. Subfloor adhesive, liquid nails, etc will skin over fairly quickly, which is not an advantage when working with sheetrock...You want the bead of glue to easily self-spread when compressed. Buy Ford parts for a Ford, use drywall adhesive for drywall work, etc...

As far as allergies, this isn't caustic stuff. You probably will barely smell it if at all. Wear gloves so you don't touch it if you're concerned, and don't get it on your clothes because it will not come out.

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Old 04-19-2008, 12:17 PM   #13
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Attach drywall from behind?


What will hold keep the framing members from moving until the drywall adhesive drys? There are no fasteners being installed correct?

Using the right product for the right job is a good point. You would not want to use premium normally if a portion wasn't fastened off right away then you would have a buckle in your wall. Also movement can break the fast initial skin of the premium adhesive.

However - here the fast set up time seems to be an advantage. If there is any movement the strength of the drywall bond may broken.
You may find it easier to go with the Premium subfloor adhesive product that sets up faster.
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Old 04-19-2008, 12:21 PM   #14
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Drywall adhesive will be better for smell and allergies.
If you bump the framing members 6 hours later then you need to start over however as 24 hours is needed for the drywall glue and does move past this time frame even.


Premium will have a solid bond where this will not matter slightly after an hour.
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Old 04-19-2008, 09:17 PM   #15
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Daryl, if his drywall is responsible for support of his studs and other framing members, he has bigger problems than what type of drywall adhesive he uses.

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