my wife and i moved into a new house (new to us) that was artexed to death about 15 years ago
having spent a good while this past weekend trying to steam and scrap it off - i managed less than 1metre squar ein 2 hours
we have resolved that maybe it would be better to get someone to skim over the lot when we get bits of the rest of the house plastered
question is - can they skim over painted artex or will we have to go through the removal process even if we want it plastered in the end?
Im no expert - but we're facing the same problem as we just move into our first new home.
I've asked a few people and they've all said - it depends on the artex. If its a really pronounced design - with deep grooves - apparently, you need to knock these off and "smooth" it down as otherwise the skimming wont be smooth ...
For some bizarre reason, our house has artex on it that looks exactly like wood-chip (!) which isn't that bad as it isn't deep but, my god, it just has to go!!!
Hope this helps - but as I said - Im no builder person!
how to remove artex
i too has a lot of artex in my passage, and after trying sanding and the rest i found the solution.
Get a spray bottle, fill it with hot water and spray the artex, even if it is painted.
Now get a paint scraper and away you go.
Its a lot easier to get a plasterer in to skim over the ceilings, if you can afford it! and you get a nice smooth finish. You don't know what the artex is hiding.
I think plasterers use a bonding agent before putting on the plaster.
ARTEX IS A PROBLEM IF IT ISNT DONE PROPERLY, PLEASE REMEMBER THAT WHEN ARTEX, OR TEXTURE WAS APPLIED TO HOUSES THAT ONE OF THE INGREDIENTS USED FOR MAKING IT WAS ASBESTOS, ALTHOUGH THERE WAS A NEWSPAPER ARTICLE PUBLISHED A FEW YEARS AGO SAYING THAT IT WAS NOT OF THE DANGEROUS TYPE! ANYWAY, THIS WAS BANNED IN THE MAKING OF TEXTURE POWDER IN THE EARLY 80s,
IF YOU DO INTEND TO REMOVED OLD TEXTURE FROM YOUR CEILINGS OR WALLS PLEASE DO NOT DRY SCRAPE, USE A STEAM STRIPPER TO SOFTEN IT IF POSSIBLE, THEN GENTLY SCRAPE SO THAT YOU RELEASE MINIMUM DUST PARTICLES INTO THE AIR, WEAR A MASK AND GOGGLES,
SKIMMING OVER ARTEX THAT IS PAINTED IS OK, WHETHER IT IS MATT OR SILK PAINT, BUT NORMALLY IT WILL BE SEALED FIRST WITH PVA, IF OVER MATT PAINT THE PVA WILL HAVE TO BE WATERED DOWN AS FOR POROUS SURFACES, AND IF USING ON SILK PAINT WATER THE PVA DOWN NOT SO MUCH BECAUSE THE SURFACE IS NOT THAT POROUS (READ THE INSTRUCTIONS ON THE CONTAINER) BUT BEFORE ANY OF THIS CAN HAPPEN MAKE SURE THAT THE PAINT IS WELL ADHERED TO THE SURFACE AS THE PLASTER WILL NOT STICK WHEN IT PULLS OF THE PAINT,
BUT THE NORMAL PROCEDURE WILL BE AS FOLLOWS
TRY TO REMOVE THE TEXTURE OR AT LEAST THE HIGH POINTS IF POSSIBLE
AS THE SURFACE IS NOW SCRAPED LIGHTLY IN PLACES AND NOT IN OTHERS SEAL AS FOR A POROUS SURFACE, LET THIS DRY OUT THEN SEAL AGAIN USING LESS WATER IN THE PVA FOR THIS SECOND COAT AND LET THIS DRY COMPLETELY
THIS SHOULD BE READY FOR THE SKIMMING PLASTER
MAKE SURE THAT THE CENTRAL HEATING IS OFF BECAUSE YOU DONT WANT THE PLASTER DRYING TOO QUICK
MULTIFINISH PLASTER IN THE ORANGE BAGS I FIND IS THE BEST FOR COVERAGE, LAY THIS ONTO THE AREA, NOT SCRAPE IT ON, AS YOU WANT DEPTH SO THAT YOU CAN WORK IT, AS THE PLASTER BECOMES TOUCH DRY (SO THAT IT STILL MARKS SLIGHTLY WHEN YOU TOUCH IT) USE THE TROWEL TO LEVEL ONTO THE WALL AND GET OUT AS MANY LINES AS POSSIBLE (PARRING)
MIX UP MORE PLASTER AND LAY ONTO THE AREA AGAIN, USING A THINNER COAT THIS TIME
BUY A SPONGE TROWEL, AS THE PLASTER IS GOING OFF ON THE AREA USE THE WET SPONGE TROWEL IN CIRCULAR MOTIONS, AN AREA AT A TIME, THEN TROWEL THIS AREA FLAT BEFORE MOVING ONTO THE NEXT AREA
IF YOU WOULD LIKE MORE INFO ABOUT TEXTURING OR THE REMOVAL OF, REPAIRING TEXTURED CEILINGS AND MATCHING IN THE PATTERN AND MOST IMPORTANTLY THE CORRECT PREPARATION FOR INTERIOR CEILINGS AND WALLS THERE IS A BOOK AVAILABLE, HERES THE LINK
CLICK ON THE BOOK COVER AND LOAD DOWN THE FREE PREVIEW
ALL THE BEST
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