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jschaben 05-18-2012 10:14 PM

Another nail question
 
I have a roof overhang along about 1/2 of one side of my house that I am planning on replacing the overhead. My plan is to replace it with the Home Depot flavor of beadboard, 1/4" or so thickness. What's up there now is 1x2 beadboard that has been there the better part of 50 years and is warped and twisted some. This wont be changing the looks much, just cleaning it up.
Question is, which should I use to attach the new beadboard? I have a full round head framing nailer, a 16 guage finish nailer and an 18 guage narrow crown stapler. I was thinking the finish nailer but there isn't much of a head on those nails. I think the framer is something of overkill. Stapler leaves kind of a PIA hole to fill. :huh:
Before we get into it, yes, I will be priming and painting all six faces of each piece prior to installing.

Gary in WA 05-18-2012 11:05 PM

Do you have a link to this beadboard? I know they carry interior board......

Gary

jschaben 05-18-2012 11:55 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by GBR in WA (Post 924376)
Do you have a link to this beadboard? I know they carry interior board......

Gary

I couldn't find it listed on their website.. We're likely thinking of the same stuff though. It isn't pressure treated or anything. Basically going under a porch overhead, I wasn't to concerned about it given a good paint job.

hand drive 05-19-2012 08:14 AM

I always use staples for bead board. 1 3/8" or 1 1/2" for the best grab.

staple so that the staple is crossing the grain for the best hold.

sometimes there will be a little pucker out from the grain being penetrated by the staple and just use a razor knife and slice the pucker!

set your air pressure or staple gun nosing so that the staple just barely sets through the face of the bead board and use painters putty to fill the holes before paint.

Good luck

jschaben 05-19-2012 09:10 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by hand drive (Post 924466)
I always use staples for bead board. 1 3/8" or 1 1/2" for the best grab.

staple so that the staple is crossing the grain for the best hold.

sometimes there will be a little pucker out from the grain being penetrated by the staple and just use a razor knife and slice the pucker!

set your air pressure or staple gun nosing so that the staple just barely sets through the face of the bead board and use painters putty to fill the holes before paint.

Good luck

Hi - thanks for the response. I was leaning that way myself after rereading the post. :)

hand drive 05-20-2012 07:27 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jschaben (Post 924490)
Hi - thanks for the response. I was leaning that way myself after rereading the post. :)

glad to confirm what you already decided :)

you might have to use fir strips to fir down the framing when you pull off the 1x's and add the new beadboard. It will be going from 3/4 thick to 1/4 or 3/8 thick. This depends only if something rests up against the 1x beadboard now like window trim, bed moulding, crown or siding.

jschaben 05-20-2012 10:09 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by hand drive (Post 924946)
glad to confirm what you already decided :)

you might have to use fir strips to fir down the framing when you pull off the 1x's and add the new beadboard. It will be going from 3/4 thick to 1/4 or 3/8 thick. This depends only if something rests up against the 1x beadboard now like window trim, bed moulding, crown or siding.

Thanks, nice catch, that aspect slipped right past me.:oops:

hand drive 05-20-2012 11:57 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jschaben (Post 925040)
Thanks, nice catch, that aspect slipped right past me.:oops:


NP, my pleasure. best to think things out and work out the kinks before digging into something. 90% prep, 10% work :thumbup:


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