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Old 02-10-2013, 02:07 PM   #16
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Another Jacking question


Joe :

Would it be just as good to tie a couple vertical pieces of rebar into the footing and pour a column (say 8x8?) to bring the wood connection above grade?

I've never worked with cinder block and mortar before. I'm already mixing concrete anyway.......


Then i could set a bracket into the top of the column and use that to set a post between the beam and concrete.

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Old 02-10-2013, 08:05 PM   #17
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Another Jacking question


Ok, so this weekend I accomplished step 1.


Got step 2 started. Put the cribbing in (my holes were deep enough for 6 layers of 2x12) set the jacks on them, put my piece of steel with stops and a small layer of plywood between the jack and the steel plate to hopefully absorb some of the offset of pressure from the dirt not being ENTIRELY level (it's pretty close though)


I actually got somewhere between 1/16 and 1/8" of lift, the old post is now free and flops around by hand.

UNFORTUNATELY the jacks are stuck

Am I not using them properly? Maybe they are too old and worn out? Using a 3 foot long piece of 1/2" galvanized pipe to try and turn them, but the pipe is now bending. Should I be using something else to turn them? Would a piece of rebar the same size as my pipe be better? What else can I do?

I guess my last option is to set some more cribbing up and use a hydraulic jack to lift, and just use the screw jacks to hold the beam in place like jack stands on a car.
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Old 02-10-2013, 08:17 PM   #18
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Another Jacking question


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Originally Posted by joecaption View Post
12" is way over kill, at that thickness your not going to need any rebar or mesh.
Have you taken the time to see how many bags that's going to take?
Pretty much the most common post pad thickness in new construction and remodeling, at least for the last 30 years or so......................

To the OP, try a simple 12 ton hydraulic jack or two, and lift in small amounts over several days. Use the screw jacks for back-up/redundancy/safety.........
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Old 02-10-2013, 08:41 PM   #19
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Another Jacking question


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Originally Posted by Alan View Post
Joe :

Would it be just as good to tie a couple vertical pieces of rebar into the footing and pour a column (say 8x8?) to bring the wood connection above grade?

I've never worked with cinder block and mortar before. I'm already mixing concrete anyway.......


Then i could set a bracket into the top of the column and use that to set a post between the beam and concrete.


Sounds like a plan,i like it better than CMU's and you would have to fill the cavities of them with mortar or concrete anyway.
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Old 02-11-2013, 09:12 AM   #20
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Another Jacking question


What size rebar should I be using for this?

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Old 02-11-2013, 01:37 PM   #21
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Another Jacking question


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What size rebar should I be using for this?

I poured footings back in June that were spec'd by a structural engineer. My footings were 30"x30"x12" and used two #4 rebar each way (Like a number/pound sign). I used 4000 psi concrete.

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Old 02-12-2013, 09:21 AM   #22
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Another Jacking question


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I poured footings back in June that were spec'd by a structural engineer. My footings were 30"x30"x12" and used two #4 rebar each way (Like a number/pound sign). I used 4000 psi concrete.
Very helpful, thanks
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Old 02-12-2013, 07:43 PM   #23
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Another Jacking question


Ok, here we go...


Got under the house tonight with a hydraulic jack. Had enough room to get the old post out of the way, and put the hydraulic jack in it's place.


Lifted it up a bit, cranked on the screw jacks..... let the hydraulic off, and the doggone beam sagged back down again. I don't have my string level under there yet to see how close i am or how far it's actually coming back down, but this means I need to change my plans.

How does this sound?

1 : Jack beam up with hydraulic jack on bearing point to where it needs to be.

2 : Set screw jacks as tight as they will go at that elevation.

3 : Remove hydraulic jack and "dismantle" footing

4 : Form and pour new footing, and concrete pillar.

5 : Set hydraulic jack on new footing as close to pillar as possible, lift beam to where it is supposed to go, and slide a new post into the bracket.

Does this seem OK?

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